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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I am at the point of filling my radiator. New engine rebuild, everything is clean and ready for radiator fluid. But what type? What works better?
Here’s the backstory.
1966 galaxie 7 litre all original. So read stock radiator, pump, hoses, rebuild to stock specs (30 over pistons) etc. my radiator is a two core factory in good condition. Engine ran cool before rebuild unless stop and go traffic or really hot day. It would creep up until started moving again. I am expecting same conditions now with rebuild.

Some questions though and a search on forum revealed no answers.

What type of radiator fluid should I use? I now know there are many types. I think I understand some terminology and should use an IAT type ( original glycol), not OAT or a mix of OAT, because of acid corrosion in older systems. But should I try water wetter? Or another brand or stay with Glycol original type?

I think I would like to try water wetter for decrease in temps ( if that really works). I read that Evans will make engine run hotter ( don’t want that). But what do you guys use and say about this subject?
Let me know

JIM
 

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I use common ethylene glycol and water, 50/50, on my original '64, and would continue to do so after a rebuild. It's been around a long time and available everywhere. My $.02. I would think water wetter is up to you. I would not expect it to cause problems.

Also, it's pretty common for engine temps to be a little higher immediately after a rebuild because of tighter parts. Once you have 500-1000 miles they should drop back to normal. Maybe this is not the case if you are using modern, thin rings.

Pat
 

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Jim, I've had my 7 litre rebuilt to the same spec's as your's. I haven't driven it yet but have run it many times just parked outside. I first tried using the stock Ford radiator that came with the car. I found my temps where pretty high with the car not moving (just a fan in front of the radiator).

I switched to a aluminum radiator with a coolant mixture of 60% distilled water and 40% coolant (the eco friendly stuff). I also used water wetter. My temps are now running a good 10 deg cooler. Not sure if it was a combo of all the changes or just the new radiator? Anyway hope this helps.

Kelly
 

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I ran water wetter in my race bikes for years. Stuff is amazing. It really drops the temps. BUT it does nothing to prevent freezing.

According to water wetter own web site there is minimal benefit to its cooling abilities once mixed with convesnional antifreeze.

That being said. Id run the classic stuff 50/50 with water. Distilled water. Do not use well water and I'd shy away from city water too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks to all of you for answering so quickly. Seems opinions are all over. Kelly trying to keep car factory, so no aluminum radiator. Water wetter not good for winter, then it’s out I guess! Thanks touring919. 64 fastback, seems I will do what you do to try it. Hope the 30 over won’t cause more heat, but most likely it will??? I looked at the NY radiator guys to recore mine into a three core instead of a two. He said 40% more cooling. But the shipping was killer. He quoted me 800 to recore with new three row core, exactly like original. Shipping for mine to him, @150 and him to me 150. Kinda high. Anyone ever use this guy???


wont do it if I don’t need too. Any other suggestions???

thanks

JIM
 

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What type of fan are you running? OEM? Derale makes an awesome 6 blade fan that move a ton of air, even at idle. If you run a fan clutch make sure it is functioning properly, shaft isn't loose and resistance when turned by hand. Royal Purple Purple Ice works with anti freeze, not as effective as with strait water, but they claim it still helps. I use it in my setup and noticed at least 10 degrees cooler on a hot day with the AC on. My 64 Tbird has a 383 wndsor stroker and a 3 core copper radiator and it will creep up when idling, never gets to hot, and as soon as you bring up the RPM's it drops quickly. I think that is pretty common with the older stuff..
Take care
Ed
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
AK 7an,
It is all factory stuff, born with equipment. So the fan is a five blade non clutch, no a/c 428 FE auto. Royal purple sounds ok. You think it works or waste of money! My thoughts are it didn’t over heat originally, so it should be ok today. I don’t plan on driving it when it’s 10,000 degrees out. But getting stuck in traffic is always a possible issue.
thanks for the reply.
I like getting others input and then making a decision on the info I received. So keep the info coming please.

JIM
 

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Jim you say your fan is a 5 blade? My 428 (auto tran, P/S, also no A/C) has only a 4 blade fan (no shroud or clutch). Wonder why their different?

Also as I mentioned before try going with 60% distilled water and only 40% coolant during the summer. I'm sure you'll fine a little extra cooling doing so, and not giving up any corrosion protection.

And lastly, make sure your rad cap is the correct pressure rating and functioning as it should.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Jim you say your fan is a 5 blade? My 428 (auto tran, P/S, also no A/C) has only a 4 blade fan (no shroud or clutch). Wonder why their different?

Also as I mentioned before try going with 60% distilled water and only 40% coolant during the summer. I'm sure you'll fine a little extra cooling doing so, and not giving up any corrosion protection.

And lastly, make sure your rad cap is the correct pressure rating and functioning as it should.

Kelly
Kelly as always thanks for the info. I think that is a good solution 60/40. As to why our cars are different, not sure, unless yours is not original! Lol, just kidding. Mine was a barn find since 1979 and was complete. Not sure if anyone before that changed items. Trying to go as original as I can. Here are two pictures of my motor. One when I took it out and the other when I put it back in. I have a metal shroud with part numbers on it and I also have PS. A mystery for sure.
 

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AK 7an,
It is all factory stuff, born with equipment. So the fan is a five blade non clutch, no a/c 428 FE auto. Royal purple sounds ok. You think it works or waste of money! My thoughts are it didn’t over heat originally, so it should be ok today. I don’t plan on driving it when it’s 10,000 degrees out. But getting stuck in traffic is always a possible issue.
thanks for the reply.
I like getting others input and then making a decision on the info I received. So keep the info coming please.

JIM
I thought that the Purple Ice was worth it. Jay Leno endorses some other product that is not water based and has better heat transfer than. 50/50 mix antifreeze. I will have to do some digging and come up with the name of the product.
Cheers
Ed
 

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So I am at the point of filling my radiator. New engine rebuild, everything is clean and ready for radiator fluid. But what type? What works better?
Here’s the backstory.
1966 galaxie 7 litre all original. So read stock radiator, pump, hoses, rebuild to stock specs (30 over pistons) etc. my radiator is a two core factory in good condition. Engine ran cool before rebuild unless stop and go traffic or really hot day. It would creep up until started moving again. I am expecting same conditions now with rebuild.

Some questions though and a search on forum revealed no answers.

What type of radiator fluid should I use? I now know there are many types. I think I understand some terminology and should use an IAT type ( original glycol), not OAT or a mix of OAT, because of acid corrosion in older systems. But should I try water wetter? Or another brand or stay with Glycol original type?

I think I would like to try water wetter for decrease in temps ( if that really works). I read that Evans will make engine run hotter ( don’t want that). But what do you guys use and say about this subject?
Let me know

JIM
With my 406 and Cold Case aluminum radiator I run the Napa Green old style coolant 50/50 Antifreeze - Regular Green - Gallon 50/50 NAF RTU1GAL | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts I am a big fan of Water Wetter and use one bottle in my 406 also. I live at 7000 feet in a snow ski resort and have never had an issue using one bottle of Water Wetter in winter. Car is stored in winter in unheated shop.
 

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Kelly as always thanks for the info. I think that is a good solution 60/40. As to why our cars are different, not sure, unless yours is not original! Lol, just kidding. Mine was a barn find since 1979 and was complete. Not sure if anyone before that changed items. Trying to go as original as I can. Here are two pictures of my motor. One when I took it out and the other when I put it back in. I have a metal shroud with part numbers on it and I also have PS. A mystery for sure.
Jim, mine was also a "barn find". Here's a few photos of it the day I found it (nasty). I'm told it was stored in there since the mid 90's. The only thing I noticed on the car that wasn't factory was the after market rims. The fan setup looked all original to me. As far as I can tell by the tags on the car it was assembled in the late fall time period (1965). Was your built at a later date in the 66 production run? Strange that yours is a 5 blade with the shroud, as we both have only P/S & no A/C.

Anyway, sorry to hijack your original question.

Kelly
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Here are my pictures from when I got mine. The seller washed it. I guess to get more from me. Didn’t work. I have to double check but I think mine was made in Feb 66. The last inspection sticker was from 73. Was told it sat since 79.
 

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