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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm doing some measuring for new wheels and determined that the rear end has slid 1/2" to the right. Is there a cure for that or should I just get 1" skinnier tires than I was thinking of. Or maybe get a spacer for one side. Or order wheels with one being 1/2" offset?

Looking for a smooth ride, with tires as wide as feasible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The upper one on the right looks like a bear to get out, the front bolt is inside the frame. A new bushing costs $80!!
The front nut on the lowers looks unreachable! And the tracking bar has to come off and will be impossible to get back on -- no bushings for it, either!! Oh woe is me!!!

Do you think somethjing like bad bushings back there could give me vibrations on the highway?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also, the rear driver's side is one inch lower than the other side. I have a set of spring clamps, maybe if I raised that side one inch or lowered the other side, the passenger side wheel would pull in a little?
 

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One side lower than the other at the rear is usually a bad bushing(s) or a bad front-end alignment. Yes, front suspension can affect rear height. How's that for something you wouldn't expect?

David
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Wel, there IS a slight pull to the right... So the vibration on the highway could be tires, unbalanced wheels, unilug washers, bad bushings, weak spring, bad alignment, improperly balanced driveshaft, bent axle, bushings, loose U-joint, pinion angle, exhaust resonance, un-oiled rear end.... :(


Not really feeling the progress. Winter approaching...
 

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I'm doing some measuring for new wheels and determined that the rear end has slid 1/2" to the right. Is there a cure for that or should I just get 1" skinnier tires than I was thinking of. Or maybe get a spacer for one side. Or order wheels with one being 1/2" offset?

Looking for a smooth ride, with tires as wide as feasible.

Mine is off a bit too and from what I've read it's very common the '65s. I think the panhard bar isn't parallel to the ground as the car sits normally and as you raise the rear end it gets further and further out of square pulling the rear end over to the drivers' side of the car.
Fixes could include a Spohn adjustable panhard bar, mounting point relocation, or changing to a watts link. Watts link is probably a bit extreme but I've been thinking I'll probably go that way eventually. Mine isn't out far enough to be a real problem, just enough to be annoying. If I'm going to go to the trouble of fixing it I'd like to really fix that beyotch.
 

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Mine is off a bit too and from what I've read it's very common the '65s.

I think the panhard bar isn't parallel to the ground as the car sits normally and as you raise the rear end it gets further and further out of square pulling the rear end over to the drivers' side of the car.

Fixes could include a Spohn adjustable panhard bar, mounting point relocation, or changing to a watts link. Watts link is probably a bit extreme but I've been thinking I'll probably go that way eventually. Mine isn't out far enough to be a real problem, just enough to be annoying. If I'm going to go to the trouble of fixing it I'd like to really fix that beyotch.
The rear suspension has to be rebuilt and the correct trim height realized before taking measurements. Even if you used a smaller tire, the suspension may move causing the body to hit the tire.

Improper pinion angle (possibly causing vibrations) is affected by improper trim height.
 

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The rear suspension has to be rebuilt and the correct trim height realized before taking measurements. Even if you used a smaller tire, the suspension may move causing the body to hit the tire...
Agree, but just as a frame of reference I've replaced the rear suspension bushings and I'm running 255/60-15 tires on 15X 8 wheels with 4.50 backspacing. Also my car had been hit on the right and right wheel opening is pushed in probably 1/4 to 1/2" from where it should be. My outer sidewalls seem to rub if I have a bunch of stuff in the trunk and do anything twisty, like turning into a parking lot that also ramps up from the road or turning out of same. If I'm not loaded down or if I'm being careful it never touches. I believe if everything were set up just right then a 275/60-15 tire on a 4.75 BS wheel would be fine.
 

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Sorry 65er...

I was highlighting your statement about rear axle movement, not criticizing you.

I just suggested that the original posters rear suspension has to be in good repair before modification(s).
 

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No offense taken Kultulz, I was just adding my real world observations for Tom by providing the details of my setup and how everything relates. We're on the same page man! ;)
 

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The upper one on the right looks like a bear to get out, the front bolt is inside the frame. A new bushing costs $80!!
The front nut on the lowers looks unreachable! And the tracking bar has to come off and will be impossible to get back on -- no bushings for it, either!! Oh woe is me!!!

Do you think somethjing like bad bushings back there could give me vibrations on the highway?
JM2C, (hope I dont become a target here) Its not IMPOSSIBLE, as it was assembled at one time, easy no, a pia yes but do-able. I would change all the bushings FIRST to see how that changes the drivability of the car then worry about the centering if it is still off. And as was said the front can effect the rear, and its stance. I am not sure why you are using the coil clamps unless its to 'level' the car side to side. But I would re-bush first then get everything else measured and squared away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
But this is The Puttster we're talking about. He's a golfer not a engineering major...

"So the elephant thunders, "How dare you challenge me, mouse! I am a thousand times more powerful than you!"

The mouse replies, "But I've been sick..."
 

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The upper one on the right looks like a bear to get out, the front bolt is inside the frame. A new bushing costs $80!!
The front nut on the lowers looks unreachable! And the tracking bar has to come off and will be impossible to get back on -- no bushings for it, either!! Oh woe is me!!!

Do you think somethjing like bad bushings back there could give me vibrations on the highway?
I don't recall any of the rear bushings for my '67 being that much, I have the Moog part #'s somewhere around here and can look for them if you want me to. I also have a Napa # for a bushing that will work for the panhard bar with a simple modification. I did all of the suspension on my '67 last summer, first time I'd ever done suspension work on an old car and I was able to get all those bolts out. Took the control arms to a machine shop to have the old bushings pressed out and new ones pressed in.

PO had lowered my car and the panhard bar in the car had a bend in it and a modified upper end for a larger bushing. I assume this was in an attempt to center the axle with the lowered springs. Pulled a stock bar out of a junkyard car. The key to getting it back on is to do it with the shocks disconnected and axle dropped with a jack so you can maneuver it into the correct position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Thanx, Greg. I am finding Moog K8136 for upper bushings and K8135 for the two lowers, how does that sound? Do any of these require two bushings per bolt? That would make $88 for a set for the uppers. Can't get a bead on the panhard bushings yet.

Sure would be nicer if the vibration was coming from a bad pinion angle. However the difference at each end of the driveshaft is only 1," so I am thinking that's probably not it.

I PB blasted the bolts and got them to loosen a little. The most challenging is the upper arm, front. I can get a socket on the outside, is the nut side welded in? Because it seems impossible to get a wrench in there. Plus I wonder if messing with thar arm is bad for the pinon angle.

On the lower fronts I think I can sneak a 13/16 open end in and hold the nuts but I have to buy one to see. Is that the way to get those off?

Oh, and hey all, I went to visit Sardog last week. He let me swap his tires for mine (rears) and we drove around in puttster's Galaxie feeling for vibration. In the end I don't think the test was conclusive but Jeremy opened his garage fridge and me and him and three of his buddies that smelled the beer stood around shot the bull for a while, so at least something was accomplished.

Tom
 

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You will need an open end wrench for where the control arms mount to the frame, as you mentioned you can get a socket on one end but not the other. I was able to get a wrench one one end of all those when I did mine. 13/16" sounds right, I do know it was a size I didn't have and I had to pick one up.

The numbers you mentioned are correct, you only need two bushings per arm and that's what each kit comes with. Think the lowers are around $25 on Amazon and the uppers are $34, so it would be $90'ish for the all of them. I thought you were indicating a single kit was $88.

For the panhard bar you can use Napa 274-6514, they are sold individually and you will need 4. Cut off the thin end of the bushing and then use two pieces for each end of the bar.

The pinion angle is set by how the upper control arm attaches to the axle, not the frame. There is an offset washer (probably not the correct term) at the axle mount, so what I did is left that connection on and when I got the axle down and out I made a couple of marks on the washer and the mount so I could line it back up where it was before. Could be done under the car as well, I just pulled the whole thing out so I could clean it up and fix a few other issues.
 
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