[63Sean]

I gotta leak from the rear pass axle. I've searched thru old posts here, and I've got some questions. Lemme apologize up front if any of these questions seem overly stupid.

1) what's the best way to clean up the vent?
2) how would i be able to tell if I need axle sleeves?
3) I read a post where someone stated that you could use the axle as a pry bar to remove the old seal - how else could you do this?
4) where's the best place to buy bearings and seals for the rear axles - '63 Gal.
5) the leak is running down the outside of the backing plate- - this will require gasket change as well, right. Are there one or two gaskets (inner and outer) - Mac's sells one and Concour's sells inner and outer

thanks

me

_________________
Bow your head for the Man's Prayer . . .
I'm a man, but I can change, if I have to . . .
I guess

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 63Sean on 3/19/06 9:01pm ]</font>

 

[dadurweird]

63 Sean,

No question is stupid as all questions relate to kixin' our Fords and keeping them safe.

1 -
2 - inspect the axle shaft in the area where the seal has contact for gawling (spl). If you are not sure of the condition, the shop that will press off/on your bearings should be able to assist you further.
3- I have a slide hammer that I used, am sure someone here will be able to answer this for you. The seals are not pressed in that hard anyways.
4- All of the national car parts chain store carry Ford 9" bearing and seal, my local NAPA store pressed off the old bearings and the new ones on for $15.00 the other day.

regards

Frank

 

[dacofa]

1. It unbolts from the top of the diff.
2. Normally you shouldn't need to. Older car, hard to tell until you pull the axles.
3. Yopu use the spline end and pry it out that way. A big screwdriver does the same thing. Keep it and take if with you. If you're changing the seals, do the bearings too.
4. Better name parts stores. But take the old stuff with you, unless you like to make lots of trips. They all will tell you, "this is the right one" Then lock the doors and start laughing. Older the car, the more chance of getting the wrong parts. And keep the receipt.
5. Gasket is more for dirt and water to not get in the brakes system. The seal seals the housing not the gasket. If it's torn replace it. Otherwise don't worry about it. $2 per gasket.
6. Do it right or get ready to do it again. Putting the seal back in is going to be the hardest part. A large socket works well. You have to put in evenly and right. Check the brake shoes and make sure they don't have gear oil on them or they're history. Replace them, you can't clean them.

 

[63Sean]

Thanks guys.

I can't mess the shoes up - they're off the car. I was changing the entire break system when I noticed some black spots on the garage floor under the rear pass. backing plate showed the signs. I'll probably get a couple of seals in case I screw one up.

sean

 

[MMinNM]

I just bought a universal seal driver from Harbor Frieght for about $8 bucks.

 

[63Sean]

I used the slide hammer and the puppy popped right out of there. Of course, I checked AutoZone for a new one and their computer shows they have 4 but, alas, they don't have jack. I'll order from Mac's or Concours I 'spose.

sean