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Discussion Starter #1
kit is a 67 stang rear lowering kit out of the pennysaver...WILL IT WORK?! in my 66 fairlane( not to confuse this 66.5 fairlane has 67 stang front. but the leafs are slightly wider, and longer front bolt to rear. but everything matches up, just the leaf is wider, this has me concerned, but i can always weld it to the leaf. so please look at the pics and tell me what you think, should it just work and keep my eye on it, or should i weld it?!







also the leaf axle bracket is different than the stang, it has a rubber pad/bushing thing inside of the two plates/ shock plates. please take a look at my pics and advise!

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66 FAIRLANE 500 2dr.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: trukstopcowboy on 9/20/05 1:32pm ]</font>
 

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I think I understand what you're asking. First, you don't have the lowering kit, you're just thinking about buying it. Second, you haven't taken the u-bolts off your rear yet...that's why the pics are taken at such a funny angle. Somebody just laughed at me for cocking my head sideways to look at your pics ...like a dog listening to a high freq sound...thanks a lot!


The stuff looks heavy enough for the application. Although it looks a little tall for a car...are you sure you can afford to lower the rear that much? I wouldn't use any of the rubber insulators with that lowering block...you'll want all metal to metal interfaces when you bolt it back together. It looks like your center bolt hole might be bigger than the Mustang center bolt. If it is you'll need to use a bushing or weld up the ID of your plate so you have a snug fit. My $0.02.
 

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Do you plan on having the springs heat treated after the welding?

Will you add radius rods (a la Shelby) or otherwise improve axle location after installing the lowering blocks? They will multiply the torque applied to spring wrap by the increase in distance they add from the center of the axle.

IMO it is better to de-arch and/or reverse the spring eyes. These mods require the equivalent of a blacksmith, but so would heat treating the springs after welding on them I would think.
 

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Don't weld the lowering block to the spring .The blocks should work fine. Leave out the rubber pad thing as it's not needed.
Shelby type under rider bars will help with wheel hop if you use the blocks or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i own this kit, and in the pic you can see the rubber pad, does locate the plates, without it it would have major side play, and in the pic you can see my traction master bars, but this would be just for now, i may later go with the reverse eyes. thanks yes it looks like a two inch drop. so i will find some wieghts and see if thats too low lookwise.
maybe i should get a stang type rear shock plates? what do you think? thanks again
 

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Don't use the rubber. If your saddle needs the rubber to have a snug fit on the sides of the spring, you're going to have to do some fabricating. Just weld in some blocks on the inside of the saddle that will contact both sides of the spring when it's assembled.

Robert
 
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