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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I'm open for suggestions for a street rear suspension. I have stock 8" and leaf springs, 64 Falcon. This will be a street car, no racing. I haven't found any but does FordMuscle have any articles on say relocating leaf springs or alternate rear set ups? 3 Link, 4 Link, ladder, or stick with what I have? What do you use on the street and do you like it? I need your expert advise.

Thanks!
Ed
 

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Bolt on stuff for the Falcons is not readily available so many fabricate there own stuff. One option that may work for you is the Crites leaf relocation kit for 64-65 Falcons.

http://www.critesrestoration.com/comet.htm

This will give you more room for big tires out back.

Another option is the three link kit from RRS. They have it for Mustangs right now but are probably going to have a 64-65 Falcon kit soon.

http://www.rrs-online.com/3linkproducts.php
 

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Stick with what you have if it's just a street car with no racing in mind. Use blocks if you are going for a certain ride height. Why would you need a wider tire if you never plan on racing?

I daily drove a '64 Falcon convertable for about a year (now my brother's car). The ride was fine. The drum brakes were terrible in the rain. That's where I'd concentrate first and you only need front discs for a driver.

If you've got the money do whatever you want. Even if it's just to brag you have it. The money could be spent wiser elsewhere on a driver/cruiser if there is some kind of budget like there usually is.

Even in a racecar the leaf springs can be very effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It will be a street car but not a daily driver. Something to drive on nice weekends and try out in a car show or two. I already plan on disc brakes possible all 4 corners, 3 point seat belts, EFI. Money is a factor, but considering the bad condition my car started in and so many parts that need to be replaced anyway, I am exploring options that would make the car better. So old technology drums go in favor of disc. Leaf springs are old tech. Mine will have to be replaced anyway, so I was wondering if there is any better technology available for the street. I may stick with the leafs.

The RRS 3 link looks excellent but has an price that pushes me right back to leaf springs. I'll talk to Mr Crites about spring relocation when I call the order his shock tower kit.

By the way, Hi Patrick. I still love those valve covers! I promise not to copy them though!
 

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You should think about a MII crossmember kit instead of the shock tower kit. Consider this - the MII conversion will give you:

Rack and Pinion steering
Disk brakes
Better handling
Room for a power brake booster
Room for any engine

You will easily spend as much for the kit and you would for all of the upgrades seperately. Just a thought.

I don't mind you copying my valve covers. I'll send you the template if you like.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll pull out my notes and look at it again. Maybe I missed something in my cost study.

Instead of valve covers I'm going to pull a trick out of my hat I haven't used for a long time, about 2 project cars ago. It's a secret for now though.

Thanks!
 

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On 2006-09-05 19:18, nolan62 wrote:
I'll pull out my notes and look at it again. Maybe I missed something in my cost study.

Instead of valve covers I'm going to pull a trick out of my hat I haven't used for a long time, about 2 project cars ago. It's a secret for now though.

Thanks!
Dude comes on here asking for advice, then keeps his own info "secret".

What a pud.

Greg
 

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If your car is stock now and in good shape I vote to keep it as close to that as you can. Most everything for a 64 1/2 to '66 Mustang should fit the 1964 Falcon - they use the same unibody structure. I don't like to see nice classics chopped into street rods but that is a choice you can make - I just want you to know where I am comming from. You can add bolt-on ladder bars or fabricate bolt-ons that will hinge at the rear of the front sub-frames. This allows free movement for a nice ride and keeps the springs from wrapping up at all. You can add a panhard bar with some work but I don't know how necessary it is. A good set of sway bars will make it take the turns without body roll and are easy to attach. The 1964 will accept a 302 and C4 combination without much work. Just frame mounts and maybe a drive line. The eight inch is enough rear end for your 2700 pound car and a gentle 300 HP 302 will make it scream. The front end will accept the export brace from the Mustangs with little work and you can add the CanAm bar across the towers for added ridgidity. Fabricate some cross braces for the inside of the radiator mount area more for dress than any actual strength. If you keep the Six cyl. front springs when you go to the V-8 it will drop the front end a bit for a more agressive look and an overall lower center of gravity.
One week point that the Falcons had was their upper A-arms. Either have yours reinforced with moly tubing or get a pair from a wrecking yard and weld them (after the appropriate trimming) over the top of your existing A-arms for more strength. You also have the option of "boxing" them in but I like the doubled A-arms myself.
If you need more work just let me know and i will help all I can.
[email protected]
Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well Greg, I don't keep performance secrets. I'm sure YOU tell people EVERYTHING you do to your car. But since you obviously have to know. A couple of project cars back I installed a sheet of polished steel to in the inside of the hood. Gave a nice mirror effect to show off the engine to people as they walked by. Had a friend do a little engraving work on it. It was a real attention getter at local shows. I believe in sharing performance tips, but I don't usually give away my "dress up" tricks. Makes for boring car shows when everyone does the same stuff. Here, I'll give you another one. Since you're in Texas I'll probably never compete with you in a show anyway. I'm looking for a set of Buick LaSabre hood hinges. Why? Convert your hood to a tilt forward. The young guys call it a suicide hood. Worked out great on my last car. I have a few more. But nothing that would make your car go any faster, drive better, or be safer. Those tips I share. If you want all my dress up tricks I have used over the years I'll be happy to send you a list. Oh and try emailing Chip Foose and asking him how to do one of his tricks. You won't believe the rude reply you'll get! If you build a car for show you don't always tell everything.

Paul, my car was in bad shape when I bought it. Most guys would have called it a parts car and walked away. This is my 5th project car. I have built 2 bone stock showroom cars, one very mildly modified, and one full custom job. How do I decide which way? The condition if the car when I buy it. If it's in good shape it goes stock original. If it needs work I may mod a few things here and there. If it's a basket case like this one where it has big rust holes damage for a previous wreck, missing parts then I see no reason not to customize it. Personally I hate to see good classic cars chopped up into race cars. I have NOTHING against racing or racers. It looks like it might be fun I have just never had any interest in trying. As for my tired, abused Falcon, it will get subframe connectors, a brand new Ford Racing short block w/GT40P heads and EFI good for around 300hp, a T5, probably keep the 8" and put in limited slip, tinted glass. Patrick has me reconsidering the MII front end. The shock towers look like some kid took a BFH and a welder to them. They don't make repro. Well, here's a tip I should share. For 64/65 Falcons a 65 Mustang repro shock tower will work. But the motor mount frame bracket will not. Anyway, it's getting new everything. But I have done 4 leaf spring rear suspensions. Wanted to see if something else might be better this time. I researched Thunderbird and Cobra IRS systems. Both can be done but I don't have the tools or skills for that. A slight "mini-tub" job will be the most radical thing i do, except for the tilt hood. The body won't be cut, fenders won't be flared. The 64/65 Falcons have a standout body style. No need to mess with it. Thought I might shave the door handles if state law permits. All in all the car will be well cared for an tastefully done.

Oh yes, Patrick had a very creative idea for his valve covers. I think they are beautiful. Out of respect for his work and creativity I wouldn't copy them. They will be a great stand out feature of his engine.

Sorry for such a long winded post.
 

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Nolan,

This is what I ended up doing to my rear suspension. I replaced the old leafs with new custom 5 leaf units with a 1" drop. I installed them with poly bushings and had a custom Currie 8" rear end made that was 1" narrower than stock. Edelbrock IAS shocks were used.

I will be installing a set of Traction Master traction devices, an Addco 914 rear sway bar and Auburn Gear center section in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thank you Patrick. And it looks like you were right about the MII. After redoing my math and finding some different part sources, it looks like the MII would be cheaper now by several hundred dollars. Thanks for making me revisit that! I guess I'll stick with a leaf spring setup. It may be old but it works and I know it inside and out.
Ed
 

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On 2006-09-06 06:47, nolan62 wrote:

Oh yes, Patrick had a very creative idea for his valve covers. I think they are beautiful. Out of respect for his work and creativity I wouldn't copy them. They will be a great stand out feature of his engine.

Sorry for such a long winded post.
Ok, you guys have me ALL sorts of curious about these valve covers!! Any pictures? =)

Cris
 

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I would not use an MII setup unless you are plaiingin to put a really big motor in that thing. I'd really like to see what figures you used to justify a $2000 expense on the front end vs other options. As for the rear, you could fab something to move the leafs inboard of the rails. That should give some more room for a wider tire. Not a lot, but more. You're also free to install all the technology you want for technology's sake, even if it's just a street car.
 

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I do not like the MII setup at all. It gives more room in the engine bay, and that's about the only advantage I can think of.

There are guys really making that early front end work good, shelby drop, boxed arms, coil over shocks, etc. I's be more inclined to stick with that system myself, or convert to a late model strut design.

Greg
 

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On 2006-09-07 06:25, Is1BadFord wrote:

Ok, you guys have me ALL sorts of curious about these valve covers!! Any pictures? =)

 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
No big motor, just an EFI 5.0L around 300hp. Well dressed and behaved but no 600hp monster. Here is what I "was" going to do with the front suspension.

Crites Shock tower kit. $365 My shock towers are a wreck and the car must have been in one years ago. Looks like a back yard repair job by Abbot & Costello! This kit would replace the damaged areas.
Crites motor mount frame brackets. $79
Disk brakes, DiscBrakeSwap.com. $545
Negitive Wedge kit with upper CA. $425 (for a 1.75" drop)
Lower Control Arms. $120
Coil springs 1" lowered and perches. $110
Bump Steer kit. $230
Steering Rebuild kit. $166
Total=$2040.00

If it would help I have a photo album started on my site. You can look and see just what I have to work with. www.my64falcon.com

Big tires? Well, not 22" drag slicks but 17x8 or 9 in the back and 17x7 front. I actually don't like the "Pro Street" look. I read somewhere that Crites has changed their leaf spring kit. Instead of moving them to the inside of the frame rails they are now mounted along the rails. But you have to notch the rails at the front of the spring and weld a bracket in. I'm a little nervious about cutting on 42 year old frame rails. As for tech I only use what make the car safer or more reliable. Things like disc brakes, 3 point seat belts, halagen headlights, and EFI.

So far I have only heard good things about MII. What do you gentlemen not like about it?

Told ya they were nice! Engraved covers.

I hope Tony doesn't mind me posting a pic of his Falcon. It will give you an idea of the "style" I am shooting for on mine.


And thank you all for your advice. I do appreciate your experience on this.
 

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One of the down sides to the MII kit is that the engine ends up about an inch forward from it's proper location. As you may know, the space between the engine and radiator is prety tight anyway and this doesn't help.

You also loose the shock tower to cowl bracing. I think that if I ever do the MII swap that I would install some 1.5" DOM tubing (bent about 75 degrees)from just in front of the crossmember to a point high on the firewall to add some support back to the car.
 

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Now that's a '64 Falcon!

The shock towers are a mess because some kid most likely tried to message them into accepting headers for a 64 1/2-'66 Mustang.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
It was a 19 year old kid I "rescued" it from. I can only guess about it's history. Sometimes I look at it....and I just don't want to know! So right now it's still in Intensive Care. I have more pics I need to get posted.

I actually did think about the bracing. I knew that the brace across the frame would help but not replace the top side bracing. If I did the MII I would build my own version of the export brace that reaches to the inner fenders along with a monti bar. I saw someone do that some where. Actually, even if I don't do an MII I will still build my own. You need the room with an EFI setup. Oh yes, Don's 62 Rat Fink Falcon. Export brace bars like his. As for the engine position I found a cure for that as well at Ron Morris Performance. He sells and adjustable motor mount. With 1" of side to side and 3.5" of front to rear adjustment I should be able to position the motor perfectly. Now I would not use this on a race car or high HP engine. It might be able to move. I also plan to use FordMuscle's article on the Taurus electric fan which is pretty thin.

http://www.ronmorrisperformance.com/miva/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rmp&Product_Code=6110&Category_Code=Hot_New
 
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