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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all, I want to tackle some cornering issues, naming my understeering on my '61. It's got a V8 and a Mustang II IFS. The front springs are fairly stiff but the rear springs have been dearched and are quite soft, for the "lowered" look. I'm first going to get some stiffer springs. If that doesn't do the trick, are there any manufacturers out there who do rear sway bars for early Falcons? Thanks.
 

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I thought I heard Mustang rear sway bar was a bolt on swap on our early Falcons. Keep us posted on the springs. I need springs also, I think they are getting a little old by now
 

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I dont remember the brand (its been a few years since I installed it) but I found one in the JcWhitney catalog for my '64 comet and they should be the same for similar years of Falcons.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Latamud, what year Falcon do you have? Also, I have a 9" rear end. Will that affect whether or not the rear bar will fit?

Thanks.
 

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Oh, you're gonna hate me. Sorry for the book. I have a 63 Wagon. I know the width is different but it still works. I think I just used longer end links for the front. I have the same setup on my 66 Mustang. The 64/65 Falcons will be more towards a 65/66 Mustang sway bar. 66 Falcon I believe would use a 67 Mustang bar but I'm not sure. For the 9", I kept the brackets on the tapered tubes. If your tubes are not tapered it will still work because the bracket is slotted to fit over bigger tubes. You want the brackets that mount on the housing as wide apart as you can get them for better leverage, but still keeping centered. Now, for the rear end links, we toss everything but the dished washers and poly bushings. I drill the hole out to 1/2" on the bushings. Get some 1/2 all-thread from the hardware store and some thick steel stock. The all-therad becomes the endlink. You want the rear sway bar level with the ground. We drill 2 holes in the trunk floor for the all thread to go through. I use old lug nuts to secure everything together and serves for adjustability. The stock is to reinforce the floor, make big washers and weld them in under and above the floor holes. So, end link from bottom to top:2 lug nuts(lock eachother), dished washer, bushing, sway bar end, bushing, dished washer, 2 lug nuts, empty threads about 3-5", 2 lug nuts, dished washer, bushing, floor reinforcement, floor, floor reinforcement, bushing, dished washer, 2 lug nuts. I hope I didn't over load you. I'll try to post a pic.
The reason we do this is because the factory mounting for the bar end side requires drilling through the frame rails and inserting a "D" shaped bracket. Over time, from hard cornering, the D ring pulls right through the frame rail leaving a big gash. The end link mod can be done without the floor reinforcement but recommend using something. I drove down a dirt road and one tire dropped into a deep pothole. The uneven weight distribution and leverage cuased the modded end link to push through my trunk floor.
The size issue: if you use the 1 1/8 front then go with a 7/8 rear. 1" front, use 3/4 rear. Make sense? Throw in some roller spring perches, modified shelby drop and a performance alignment and your ready to hit the track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
"Oh, you're gonna hate me. Sorry for the book...." To the contrary Latamud. Thanks for the detailed information. I've printed it out and have put it in my file for future projects. By the way, I've got a Currie 9", non-tapered tubes, and it is only 52" from stub to stub, the shortest I could get without modifying anything. Do you think that will give me trouble fitting the sway bar? Heck. If I have to cut a couple of inches out of the bar and reweld it together, I will. Thanks again.
 

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Hi

I`m going to use one of a 97 Explorer in my 60. it fit very nicely in my car at least.



Thor
 

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Addco makes one that will fit. The model 914 (3/4&quot
or 676 (7/8&quot
are what to look for.
 
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