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Discussion Starter #1
All the info I can find id on rebuilding a motor. I've readf volumes and now have mine at the machine shop. I dont have any data on "be sure to..." or other breakin info, oil changing, type of oil thats best, etc. Anyone know where I can find articles on this???
Thanks.
 

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I don't know of any articles but only what has worked for me for years. I probably err on the side of caution but I hate tearing down brand new stuff to fix it. I always pump up the motor with oil before cranking it up. That involves the use of an oil pump driver and a drill. I do this with the valve covers off when the motor is still on the engine stand so I can watch all the lifters, pushrods and rockers get oil. I will also turn the crank during this to get all the air pockets out of the oil channels, lifters and pushrods.

When its ready to crank up with a flat tappet cam you want to run it in for 20 minutes or so at some rpm above idle that you are comfortable with like 1500 to 2000. I would do the same with a roller as well. Run it in means just crank it up and let it run for a while. After 20 minutes of run time I immediately then shut it off and change the oil and filter. If its a solid cam I would also need to adjust the lash but even with a hydraulic flat tappet cam I will recheck the lifter preloads and head bolt torques(noretorque gaskets or no).

If that all goes well its times to go out and run it on the highway for an hour or so. I will vary the rpms so it doesn't run too long at any one speed. That should seat the rings and the motor is ready to do whatever you want to do with it.
 

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You can buy these but I made mine. Its a round steel rod about 10 inches long with a small socket welded on the end. I had to grind down the sides of the socket a little so it would fit in the hole. I chuck this up on a regular electric drill, put it down on the oil pump drive shaft through the hole where the distributor goes and let the drill run. It pumps the motor up with oil before the first crank up.
 

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I just used the shaft out of an old distributor to use as a pre-oiler.If you have one kicking around just knock the pin out and take the gear off of the shaft.Then you can slide the shaft out.I also welded a little piece on the top for the drill to get a good grip on.If I remember correctly the drill must be in reverse to turn the proper way to get oil pressure.I pull the distributor and pre-oil my motor this way every spring when I get my car out of storage.
 

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The dist shaft must be turned counter-clockwise until plenty of oil is pumped through the motor. Be sure to buy and add 2 pints of GM EOS before firing it up. Hook up a mechanical oil pressure gauge under the hood so you can observe oil pressure during the break-in. Get the timing set,double check everything. Its best to have a helper and don't forget a kill switch, fire it up, bring the rpm's up to 1500-1800 for serveral minutes then vary the rpms from 1500-2200 for 30 minutes. shut it down and drain oil and change the filter and oil. Drive it moderately, no sustained hi-rpm or mph for first 500 miles. Moderate acceleration and deceleration is very beneficial during the first 500 miles. Change the oil and filter and drive it like you stole it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
TOM-
I hate to be specific, but I've put too much time and sweat to this point and dont want to screw it up. Two pints of GM EOS, are you saying 3 pints reg oil and 2 of these? or just those two pints by themselves?
I dont have a tach, I guess Ill have to buy one or can i estimate the RPMs at breakin?

When you say no sustained RPM for the first 500 miles, what (range) RPMs are we talking about??
And after 500 miles, its wide open.... right???
Thanks for the help
 

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Well, I'm not 460Tom, but it seems that two pints equal a quart and if your engine capacity is 6 quarts then you would do 5 quarts of oil and two pints of GM EOS.
 

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Make sure your timing is all together, and that there is fuel in the carb. If you have a way to make sure all of the fuel lines are primed, and would help.

The two pints EOS is in addition to the 5 qts (or whatever for your motor) of oil that hould already be in there.

Have a big fan nearby in case it overheats. I just stuck one in front of the radiator the whole time to be safe. A hose could be helpful also.

I ran mine in at 2500rpm. Change the rpms a little every now and then. That way the oil gets all over the cam.

After you break it in, let the motor cool off overnight. VERY important for the cam.

Also helps if you have a few buddies helping you. The more eyes the better.

Oh, and to make my oil pump primer, I took a old distributor, took out the guts and pulled off the gear.


_________________
-Walt-

1964 Comet 289 C4 daily driver
TFS TW, Weiand Stealth, Comp XE268, Rhodes lifters, TFS roller rockers, Carter 625 AFB, Hooker SuperComps
"These go to 11." -This is Spinal Tap

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dragman64 on 2/23/02 4:37am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks for the help...
I bought a tach at a swap meet today for that and will buy an oil pressure guage as well...
I'll get the EOS....
 

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If you go to your favorite search engine and type in "ENGINE BREAK-IN" you will get a ton of information. And two pints do equal one Quart, however GM sells this stuff in pints so I say "two pints" so you will have a good idea what to buy once you are at the parts counter. On the break-in two things are very important : Do not overlook.......The carb should not be TOO RICH or you will "wash" your rings (ruin them), also not too lean or you will overheat the motor. Double check the ignition timing and do not run it too far advanced or you will overheat it. And YES a big box fan in front of the radiator is a great idea, also turn the heater on to high temp and full fan . I don't think there is any benefit in any RPM higher than 2200. Let us know how it went.
 

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Back to the crankcase fill issue. I don't overfill my crankcase ever. Not on break-in, not ever! R-Code is correct, Substitute the EOS for one quart of regular motor oil. Don't overfill the crankcase and use 30w mineral based oil for the initial break-in. I have always used Valvoline 30w for break in and I change to Mobil 1 after 5000 miles.
 
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