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I have a 66 289 engine I want to use for my 65 Mustang. The bores are 30 over, but the machine shop says they were not done well and they want to go to 40 over. Is that ok for this engine?

Second question. The crank journals are 20 over, but the rods are 30 over. The machine shop says this is bad, is that true? Is this crank junk?

Third question. Has any purchased an engine from PowerPro. They seem to be a large engine remanufacturing shop and they have offered an engine that is 30 over bore and 10 over on the crank. It seems to be a lot less expensive to buy a reman engine than let a machine shop loose to charge up the .......

I would appreciate all comments. In case you can't tell, I don't know what I'm doing.

 

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Yes, the crank is junk. If you were doing a totally stock rebuild and there was nothing else available, I would say ok, but that is not the case! Better cranks are plentiful for your engine. As far as the bore goes, I would say .040over is safe on your block. Your last question.... Yes, alot of times it is cheaper to get a reman motor rather than to have a machine shop do the work and buy your parts, I have made that mistake too many times. I hope this helps
 

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Before you run out and buy a reman engine, consider what you want from that engine; just a stocker to putt to the grocery store? Or something that runs so sweet you grin from ear to ear every time you fire it up? A production rebuilt usually has cheapo dished cast pistons with a lower deck height for lower compression (saves on potential warranty costs), plain-jane single angle valve job (likely with used valves), stock reground cam, cast rings, etc., etc. When you have your own engine rebuilt, you can specify what you want, such as flattop hypereutectic or forged pistons, any performance cam mild to wild, three angle valve job, maybe a little port work, roller timing chain, and so on. A lot of it is you get what you pay for. All this is assuming you've found a reliable machine shop that enjoys performance work. You could even do some of the engine assembly yourself for that 'I did it myself' feeling.
 

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I agree with 67coug: I have found Ford Factory Authorized engines with different cuts on the rod throws, and main bearings. You may get a .030 cut on one main journal and the others different. You may get .030 cut on a rod journal and the rest different. I have seen different bores on different cylinders.

Personally I don't like more than .010 cuts on the rod or main bearing journals. I do go .020 on some engines. It's according to the use of the engine.

Bores are a different story. Some can be bored more than others.

IMO: All rod bearings, main bearings, and bores should be the same as the others. That is not the case in some remanufactored engines.
 

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.040 is fine
get a new crank
stay with your current engine, this way you know what you have and not what someone thinks it should be. Besides you know evereything fits and bolts up to it already.
 

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I'm .060 over without any problems on a '66 289. Have it sonic tested to see if there is enough meat if you're still worried.
 
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