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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys, decided it's time for an engine rebuild and was thinking about aiming for some more power. Anyone got any recomendations of what i can go for in terms of parts? I was hoping to try build it to be safe for high reving up to 6000 rpm, but is this difficult or worth it?

I'm sure you guys have all done this before so if you got any ideas to help me that'd be great. Oh yeah the car is a 72...

Thanks, Marko
 

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6k is a very easy goal. You'll need some better heads, a good inlet manifold and some tubular exhaust headers, a new camshaft, raise the compression to 10:1+. Add in a Ford Duraspark dizzy and a good 4bbl carb.

Some important considerations: What rear gear, goals and usage of the car and most of all, BUDGET


A cam from Ed Curtis, AFR185 heads, Stealth inlet manifold, Edelbrock 600cfm carb and 10.5:1....expect 440hp
Then again that's not the cheapest way!
 

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Need good heads intake and cam.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the advice guys... that output would be great! I checked the prices for some of those parts and it didn't seem too bad.

Although i prob wasn't aiming for so much power about 300 to 350 would be nice... Is there a reasonably cheap option to achieve this? If your able to advise me which part are best that would be great.

I was thinking about starting with one of those engine rebuild kits from summit with new pistons included...

I appreciate your advice guys. I'm running a mustang over in scotland and it's currently off the road with a dead engine so just wanna get ma baby back on the road as soon as possible!!!

Cheers, Marko
 

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Summit stuff is ok.
What kinda budget do you have?
The motor currently in my 66 is about 450 hp. so you can build a 351w easy to that power. Check out my sig.
Now in Scotland you might try running it on single malt.
I think you could get 500 hp easy



_________________
1966 Stang Coupe Org. 6 cyl. 351w,Sealed Power Hypers, ARP bolts,Total Seal rings,Eagle H-beams rods,Balanced,Hedman long tubes, TMD 2.05/1.60 Vic Jr Knockoffs, 1.6 Stainless steel Roller Rockers, Victor Jr intake, Holley 750 DP, Ed Nix Custom .600/.600 254/258 @.050 Solid Cam, Crane solid roller lifters,Richmond 4.11, Strange mini spool, Modified C4, 3500 stall, ******* Transbrake, B&M Hammer shifter, Shelby lowered, Pro-Comp 6Al system. Mickey Thompson 275/50 Et Street Drag radials.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: forthman on 5/18/06 4:55pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Man that stuff is more expensive than petrol!!! My budget is about 2000 dollars roughly... Let me know what you think,

Cheers
 

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$2K for all machine work, assembly and parts? That is one hell of a deal even with stock parts.
 

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I think if you do the work you can get there with your 2k.
I have. But got alot of machine work done in trade.
Check the bore careful. See it a over bore is required.
Go with Hyper piston and good rings.
Get a good intake and try a home port job on your current heads.
I got a set of old DOOE's but cost a fortune to ship.
The cam you need to research. it is dependant on intake/carb/rear gear/and heads.
 

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Not sure about in Scotland...but rebuilding a 300hp 302 in the states for 2000$ isn't unreasonable. Take a look at this guide to get an idead what's involved for porting your own heads:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.shtm

Home porting is the key to REALLY cheap horsepower =).

Then I'd pick up either an Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake, or the Ford Racing carbed dual plane (GREAT intake there!), and a 650 Edelbrock or Holley carb. Personally for a driver I prefer the Edelbrock...no tuning involved, you just basically bolt it on and go. When buying rebuilder kit from Summit or a similar warehouse (Performance Automotive Warehouse comes to mind) make sure you check on the static compression ratio with whatever pistons they supply! Some of those kits can generate incredibly dismal compression ratio's, especially if the measurements for your motor leave the piston below the deck any amount. With iron heads I'd recommend yours to be in the 9.5:1 range for best power and use of reasonable fuel. Many of those places offer upgraded pistons for a small charge, and my advice is to do it. Just a little insurance, and often you can choose the valve relief style or even get small pop up for the same cost. After that, a nice cam, either solid or hydraulic flat tappet (your preferance, solid will definately make more power, and to me the lifter noise is music!) with optimized timing events (any cam company online can recommend a good one for you), and good build practices should net you a good 300hp+. Probably a good bit more to be honest. Depending on your requirements for driveability, the cam is going to be the key. I drove, daily to and from work a 67 289 coupe with an over 300dgr duration solid cam in it lol*. Never bothered me an ounce to have a high idle, and a bit less low end torque...when shifts came anywhere over 6800rpm I chose =). Keep in mind that was a 4spd car with 3.50:1 gears.

Anyhow I hope some of my experience with budget rebuilds + making horsepower helps you out!

Cris

*~edit~
Keep in mind, the larger your cam, the higher your static compression ratio must be in order to compensate for overlap. With 9.5:1 compression something in the 270-280dg advertised would be more than enough.

C

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Is1BadFord on 5/23/06 9:16pm ]</font>
 
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