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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My 64 Galaxie 352 is very temperamental. Somtimes it runs like a clock, and other times it runs very rich, stutters, and just feels overall powerless. It is a fairly high mileage motor (110,000), but when it runs fine, it runs fine. Seems to be carb related (Holley 4V).

How difficult is it to rebuild a Holley carb? I have plenty of "regular" tools, but no special gauges or anything of that nature.

I need to do this within a few weeks before I head down to the Wildwood, NJ autoshow. Last year, the car was running so rich, I burned almost a tank of gas (170 miles) coming home, and my rear bumper (both sides) had deposits of black soot.
 

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Have you checked the engine with a vacuum meter? These tend to tell quite a bit about an engine before going too far into it. If the carb has a blown gasket, or not tight enough it will give the noted symptoms.

The Holly carburetors used to have problems with the secondary needle and seat or the float. It then would flood the engine via the secondaries. Not knowing the model of Holley carburetor you have installed, but often they have a little screw on passenger side which can be undone, and the fuel level ought to just be visable at idle, not low or flowing out. Check both bowls.

Wm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I've tried loosening the screw to see the gas level in the bowl, but I start to get immediate seepage when I loosen it. Then, I start to get a little worried about gas spilling out and I back off.

Should I see seepage or not?

I've also tried to adjust the idle mixture adjustment screws, and had them turned all the way in and the car kept running.

Does this have anything to do with the gas level in the bowl, or do I have two different issues?
 

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If you see fuel coming out before the cap is removed, you got a flooding condition. Adjust the fuel level with the external screws on to the bowls first. Otherwise you have to yank the carburetor off and see why.

Most times I find the neoprene tips to the needle and seat assemblies get hard, then refuse to seal properly. Second hope is that there is some little bit obstructing the tight closing, and only need removal. Then you can replace in kind. When you remove one of the fuel bowls the transfer tube comes off too. Grease the sealing O-ring, and gently slip back into place for this is easy to rip and cause another leak.

Wm.
 

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Have not bought a rebuild kit in a number of years now, but I think not only do you get seals, gaskets, etc. but more parts than you can use. I don't buy them anymore, for a friend has a toolbox drawer full of old gaskets, and I just take old ones over to his place, compare and put into my pocket what is required. And many-many years ago, I bought up the Holley booklets and sales catalogues. They tell what part numbers and gaskets go where. You may need to use the same gasket from another model in order to stop a leak. Thus going to a book to look up each carb then helps out. Gets you going in 1/2 hour instead of 1/2 day.

Right now, it costs more to drive over to his place due to fuel used, than to play around being careful and reinstalling old gaskets once again. I try this first. If it don't work, I then drive over an blow a few gallons of gasoline getting there. Got to learn to be cheap in your old age.

Wm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another carb symptom.

When the car is hot and the air temp is way up there, I have to keep the gas pedal floored when I crank it, otherwise it will just spin and spin.
 

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It does that because it's flooded. Mine did that badly because the gas would boil in the carb and drip down the barrels. Then when it was time to start it was flooded just like you had sat there and pumped it 20 times before starting. I went back to the stock 4100 type carb and switched to a phenolic spacer to help disipate the heat from the intake. With yours it might just need the floats adjusted down and once the fuel level is correct it will stop doing that.
I found that mine was doing it by hearing an odd ssss like water dripping on a hot skillet and it was my gas dripping in the carb because it was boiling over.
You should be able to remove the screw and the fuel level be at the bottom edge of the screw hole. Wiggling the car should cause a tiny bit to come out. I don't know the proper way to see the fuel level, that's just how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input.

I agree, the floats are high, but I pulled the plugs and a mechanic (not me) says they are running lean (?)

I'm going to bring the float level down this weekend.

Anyway, after the 9/23 Wildwood, NJ, boardwalk auto show, I'm going to pull the carb and have my future son-in-law (BMW schooled mechanic) rebuild it. (I already have one son-in-law who is a Federal Air Marshal.)

Here's the info I took off the carb:

air horn info: BOP F 9510 U list 4548 S

Auotlite tag: DOPF-U
B OBD

Can anybody tell me what Holley rebuilding kit is applicable to this carb? How about the CFM? Too big or too small for a stock 352/250 hp engine?

Appreciate your help greatly. When I decide to part this baby out, you guys will get first crack at some pretty good stuff.

(I still have NOS 64 rear bumper guards in the box, but I just can't seem to pull the plug and sell them.)
 

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Problems like described in the original post can be from vacuum leeks somewhere in teh system... like the Modulator hose ( if an automatic) or other vacuum assesories....

A Vacuum gauge is a great suggestion... tells you a lot of information
 

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Yes, absolutly...depending on humidity, temperature, and how long you have been running your engine for that day....the rubber of the vacuum hoses will change its properties and one day have a solid seal and other days being exposed to atmosphere.

If you have any rubber hoses that are not soft to the touch... meaning they have hard spots on them and can not be compressed by squeezing them.... those hoses should be replaced.

The modulator hose ( if you have an automatic) is about 3 inches long and mountaed under the tranni... this is the most common hose to go, and often overlooked, since you can not see it under the car.

PVC malfuncion, vacuum wipers???? anything with rubber. Even the fuel lines... they should be soft to the touch, or yank em out. Even the one coming out of the fuel tank, running up your chassis.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Anyone have any info on the carb/tag numbers above?

Parker Carb says 4160, 450 CFM. (I thought the cfm was greater.)
 

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My Holley catalogue says for a #4548 use a 4-4 gasket set or 3-119 Pep set.

Was used on 302, 390, 428, 429 with auto trans but no year noted.

Wm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Checked the carb floats Saturday. Level was right where it should be.

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My future son-in-law then saves my butt.

I decided to get the 64 Galaxie ready for the annual drive to south Jersey for the Wildwood classic auto show. (old cars only, nothing newer than a 1972 allowed.)

So, I adjust the carb, running nice and smooth.

I pull the distributor cap to check the points. Looks like they were way too closed, so I readjusted them.

Car would crank, but not start.

Readjust, check, readjust, check, readjust, check; nothing, car only cranks.

So, I happened to have a spare set (new) of points, and a condenser,

Same story, readjust, check, readjust, check. Panic starts to set in.

I'm all set to run to the parts store for a new rotor and distributor cap, and Dennis pulls up.

He checks for spark; nothing. We change the coil (had a used one); nothing. He checks the wires in the distributor; same old story. Wires are a bit old and frayed, but look OK.

Now, I'm in a big panic state, because I love that Wildwood show, and there's no way that I would have gotten this thing to run without a flatbed tow, mechanic, etc.

Out of the blue, Dennis suggests trying another condenser; car starts right up.

In a million years, I never would have thought that 1) the old condenser went bad, and 2) the first new condenser was bad.

I guess I'll let him marry my daughter.
 

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They don't seem to go out often but they do. I never even think of that myself. When I was about 12 yrs old I remember my now brother inlaw's dad having trouble with their wagon missing and running horrible off and on and that was the problem with it also. But that was 30 yrs ago and haven't heard anyone mention one bad since til now.
I know they have but just I hadn't heard personally. Glad you found the culprit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
coosbaylumber

What do those numbers refer to?

Will a typical auto parts store know what they mean?
 

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Jerry, is this just the stock type 4V carb that came with the car? I would just write the numbers down or carry the carb in and tell them you need a kit for this.
Autozone had the most complete kit for my stock shoebox (4100) carb, not sure on yours. The DOPF number is the date code I believe. 1970. As for the CFM, I used the 4160, (think that's what it was) holley on my car with no trouble. I think it's plenty for a non racing car where a person might want more. Below is a link to a pdf doc for carb kits, might help.
 
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