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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question here. I have e-brock RPM heads with ARP head bolts. I can't seem to get the head bolts off with a regular ratchet. Should I invest in a torque wrench? Will that make it easier? Any tricks of the trade in regards to removing head bolts?

Also can I reuse the ARP head bolts. They only have approx 1000 miles on them. Any help/info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 

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use a good, Craftsman, Proto, Snap-On, 6pt socket, 1/2 drive and a good breaker bar at least 18" long. Turn it in a counter-clockwise rotation. If you need extra reach use a very short extension and not a deep socket.
 

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Never use a torque wrench as breaker bar. One of the few tools in my tool box that I do not think of as a 'multi-use' tool...unlike like a screwdriver which is not only good for screws; it makes a great pry bar, chisel, awl, weapon, solenoid tester, flywheel turner...the list is endless.

but a good torque wrench, especially digital, will easily lose calibration if you use them for breaking lose stubborn bolts.

tell the truth ...
, I've been just as guilty of doing the same, in a pinch.

Yes...you should have already had and used a torque wrench when you installed your heads.

Gorilla Arm calibration, where you yank on the bolts until they don't move, no mo' - is no way to install head bolts (or lug nuts on wheels)... How many times have you guys need dynamite to get lug nuts loose after a trip to the tire store? Seems some tire monkeys have a competition to see how high they can set the impact wrench. Then the next time you need to change a tire, in the cold rain, out of cell phone range, with regular tire iron - it will not budge.

First car tool to buy and keep in trunk ... a good 4-way tire tool is mandatory!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 12/9/06 9:52pm ]</font>
 

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Any one else ever used a 4-way tire tool to remove head bolts? Crank dampner/Pulley bolt. Sometimes you get real creative, when you're a kid building your first engine and have limited tools.
 

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A piece of pipe slid over the end of a breaker bar or ratchet will give you extra leverage for really stubborn bolts.. It may break a ratchet though so the breaker bar is best.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for the tips guys. I will try again today. I do have a cheap torque wrench that I could care less about, Could I simply just use the cheap torque wrench to get the bolts off? I really don't care about the wrench I can go buy a better one in the future. Thanks once again everyone.
 

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Black65..,
The torque wrench measures and indicates when you have reached a given torque, it does not apply additional torque. Do you have a 1/2" drive "man size" socket set? PM me if you want to borrow mine. If you have lifetime warranteed tools, get a big bloody pipe, slide it over the socket handle like dacofa and frdnut says and pull away. Pull straight to avoid slipping and rounding off the bold head.
 

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I once had a 460 (had a million miles on the thing) that I could NOT get 2 head bolts out. 600 lb-ft impact wouldn't budge them. 1/2 breaker bar and a cheater pipe resulted in a grenaded snap-on impact socket.

Old railroad turbo trick....heat the bolt up until it's almost red. Then take a water bottle and squirt the head of the bolt a few times, then back the bolt out. Works great on everything from stuck 460 head bolts to block galley plugs to turbocharger turbine bolts.
 

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Breaker bar is best for removing head bolts. You might need a hollow pipe to slip over the end of the breaker bar for more leverage. I used part of my car jack handle to remove the bolts of my CJ engines heads. It works great if you're going at it alone.
 
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