I has to be stripped and anodized for a factory appearance, You can polish it but it will never look factory.Any of you guys got a trick for restoring anodizes aluminum trim. Can it just be buffed out and clear coated, or is there a specific process to get it back to factory appearance? I know there are shops that do it, but they charge a fortune.
I seen a bunch of them. This is the one I think I'm going to try when the time comes.Lye will strip the anodize off. Then you can buff it out. Go to youtube and type in stripping aluminum trim. There are 3 video's on it.
+1. I stripped the aluminum trim on a Merc in 2001, buffed it with $20 of supplies and sealed it with Glisten PC. It still looks like chrome today and spends much of it's time parked outside. I also did the aluminum heads with it (just wiped-down out of the box) and they also look like they were installed yesterday. A little goes a long way, and a pint did it all (including a lot of wasted over-spray) with 1/3 can left-over. Zero maintenance.POR15 has à product called Glitsen..
A exellent clear coating for that ...
Note that I have a couple books on trim and I never have read them, so this is all just my experiments based on previous similar life experience and taking a shot at it. I think it works very well, but then again I could be missing something that would make the process easier or better. That said. . .Thanks David, I'm going to give it a try myself first because I am concerned about shipping the large pieces without damage too. What method did you use to strip the old anodizing? I've got all winter to polish the pieces out with my Dremal and this is not going to be a Concurs correct show car but more of a resto-moded mid-sixties super stocker. If it doesn't turn out to my satisfaction, then I wiil give McNichols a shout.
So I've done some research on this and I am going to use the por15 product that was mentioned elsewhere in the thread, however how does this effect the black pinstripping on the 66/67 trim? does it remove it too? I just dont think I have a steady enough hand to re paint those lines on there hahaJust my .02. Lye, oven cleaner, etc does work. But not very efficiently. It is a real PITA. If you are going to repair then have re-anodized you will find that the repair process will remove much of what needs to be remove. It is then faster, easier and cheaper in the long run to have whoever is re-anodizing your pieces remove the old finish and buff it out.
So how does the Glisten affect non bare metal surfaces, like for example the painted stripes on the 66/67 fairlane lower trim that runs the length of the car? will it cover that or will it react weird with the painted surface?+1. I stripped the aluminum trim on a Merc in 2001, buffed it with $20 of supplies and sealed it with Glisten PC. It still looks like chrome today and spends much of it's time parked outside. I also did the aluminum heads with it (just wiped-down out of the box) and they also look like they were installed yesterday. A little goes a long way, and a pint did it all (including a lot of wasted over-spray) with 1/3 can left-over. Zero maintenance.
PS: I originally tried this because I've received bent or destroyed pieces back in shipping as there was no (good) local shop, and the best price for decent work was $400 plus shipping - 10 years ago. Some parts you just can't replace, or don't want the hassle of trying to find them and get enough insurance payment to cover, etc. After all that, you still have to send those parts back out for more $ and wait again... The only down-side is it took two full weekends and careful patience to do it the first time DIY.