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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I replaced my headlight switch yesterday. Now the rheostat isn't working right. When it's turned all the way to the left on high, the lights work great, but when I turn the knob to the right to dim them, they all go out immediately. When I turn the knob left again to brighten them, they come on and brighten as they should. The rheostat on the old switch worked fine. Did I get a bad part or is there some way I can fix this?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Yes that would be my call, too. Maybe check the contacts just to be sure.
 

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Your sliding contact tang is only contacting the rheostat coil intermittently. Adjust the metal tang so that it stays in touch thru the entire rotation and you'll be good. (re-install your h/l switch stalk back in while doing this, so your ceramic 'wheel' doesn't flop around -as the one in pic is doing)
That's common on these, in my experience. (mine does it too -just too lazy to fix it, lol).
ps: If by chance you see a burned out spot on the coil, it's toast (pardon the pun).




 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I took out the switch tonight and adjusted the tang. It seemed to work a little better but still is going in and out. I'm going to return the part. In the meantime, the old switch still works--I only bought a new one because the housing is broken and I thought a new one might solve my courtesy light problems (which it didn't). Thanks for the help!
 

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I peeked at the new h/l switch I have yet to install on mine, and it looks like if I needed extra snugness there, I could sneak a pocket screwdriver under the tang where it bends 90 deg before contacting the rheo ....that would give it a bit more contact pressure. Mine is a Standard brand part #DS 134. To my faded memory of this, as an old Ford parts man, the o.e. switch (shown in pic below) is much stouter than this brand, but it's not too badly built, lol.

Whazzup with your courtesy lights? Maybe someone here, or I, can help?

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Norm,

I compared the two switches, and the tang on the old one had a little bulge on the end of it that made really good contact with the coil. The new one (NAPA) didn't. I tried to adjust it to make better contact, but it didn't work. I guess it's a case of "they don't make 'em like they used to!" Maybe this is something like you're talking about.

RE: courtesy lights--I posted another thread about that a few weeks ago. I finally got all my interior lights working except for my under-dash courtesy (which is the only one, as I have a vert), and my glovebox light. I'm pretty sure I have power at both sides of the fuse, but I don't think I'm getting power at the switches in the doors. On the thread, someone suggested that I might have a bad wire somewhere. I haven't had a chance to dig around yet. Any advice?
 

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Hiya, I checked NAPA's online catalog and this is the p/n they list for 1963 - ECH HL6043. For fun I checked a '64 and I see they show the same switch, although from Ford they are 2 different p/n's. So if you want to browse around for an o.e. part, 1963 p/n is C3AZ-11654-D and 1964 is C4AZ-11654-A. Things like that make me go "hmmm", but that is my inner partsman side, lol.

I do know what you mean about certain small details being "engineered out" of replacement parts, which, sadly, *may* affect the new part(s) operation.

This photo is from NAPA's site, showing a close-up of the 'tang' area (far left) -is this how your NAPA part looks?

ps: Let me delve into your courtesy light deal, and I'll try to report back later today -plus I'll go read up on your thread there.

Norm
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Hi, Norm,

I already returned the part, but yes, I think that's exactly what it looked like. Thanks for your offer of help re: courtesy lights.
 

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I finally had a little time just now to go review your courtesy light issue. Before I write a bunch of (redundant) stuff, can you give me a short update on where you're at on it?

Everything that others have posted is spot-on, imo. I'm kinda leaning towards the problem being at the source, more so than your door/glove switches ALL being faulty. Has the dash been out (such as in a MAJor restoration)? Any other background info would be helpful as well.

I try to check in daily, so I'll keep an eye out (in case I don't get an e-mail notice from FMF).

Back to shoveling white stuff here , lol Norm
 

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I know the lack of light in a classic convertible. :bicker: Heck, with the under-dash lights, it's almost worse with the light behind what you're trying to see. When you get your courtesy lights working, I suggest you add a lighted rear-view mirror like I did. Easy, cheap, and like night and day - literally.

I did mine with a used one from the wreckers for about $5, but they are all over FleaBay and other sites for cheap. All the factory ones are made by the same companies, so it doesn't matter what you get it from. I can't remember if mine was an early '90s Mustang , Sebring or S10 pickup. Same, same. Wire into your (working) courtesy lights, pop onto a glue-on mirror mount, and enjoy the benefits of vision.

David

Typical simple '80s-'90s factory lighted mirror. I'd suggest avoiding some of the later versions with compasses, temperature readouts, etc. unless you can do wizard wiring:
 
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