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I have a 302 d8ve-6015-a3a block +30 over, and have the eagle B16422MA030 balanced 347 kit, comp cams hydraulic rollercam retro cca-cl31-600-8, procomp 62cc heads and edelbrock proflo 4 injection, What Ratio should i have on the rockerarms, or shoud i go for standard?
Thanks
 

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I have a 302 d8ve-6015-a3a block +30 over, and have the eagle B16422MA030 balanced 347 kit, comp cams hydraulic rollercam retro cca-cl31-600-8, procomp 62cc heads and edelbrock proflo 4 injection, What Ratio should i have on the rockerarms, or shoud i go for standard?
Thanks
Installing a hydraulic roller cam in an older block requires paying attention to a lot of details. First, you will need a distributor that has a gear for a steel hydraulic roller cam. Cast iron flat tappet cams use an iron gear on the distributor, which is not compatible with the steel hydraulic roller. The cheapest way to go, is to buy a replacement distributor for a 1985 mustang, as that was the only year that had had a hydraulic roller cam with a carburetor. You can plug it into whatever ignition you are running. Of course, you can also buy an MSD distributor or something similar... as they have much more easily adjustable ignition advance curves.

You will need a compatible cam thrust plate and timing chain set. Go to the links I posted in the '302 cam thrust plate' thread in the All Ford Techboard.

Make sure the springs match the camshaft, and rocker geometry is correct... or you may destroy things before the first oil change. I won't go into retro cams vs. standard... But you can use standard base circle cams with link bar lifters, and it's a much better setup than using the reduced base circle retro-fit cams. The link bar lifters for use with a standard cam use to be more expensive than standard lifters used with the retro setup. And again, learn to check rocker geometry. I guarantee you will need custom length pushrods, which can be ordered. Your heads will use guide plate, which will require hardened pushrods. You can easily order custom lengths from Smith Brothers, Manton... and even Summit. You won't need anything special other than being hardened and the right length.

As for your original question... Standard ratio rockers will be just fine. Choose a name brand, and resist the cheap, crappy Chinese stuff.

Good Luck
 

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Hi. And thanks for quick reply.
In the Proflo 4 there is an msd distributor with the set, do i need to change the gear on this? the block is a 1978 Lincoln block that is the same as the old mexikan/hipo block.
In my 68 block i have scorpion roller rockers standard ratio, will these be good for this combo, i will purchase the timing chain set and the thrust plate, this was very valuable information that i did not think about.
This is the camshaft i have https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-cl31-600-8/overview/ i will need guides and hardened rods, but i dont have any data on the springs as they was bought by the last owner of the block, but never taken in use, the only thing i know is that there is dual springs.
Thanks again
Helge
 

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Hi. And thanks for quick reply.
In the Proflo 4 there is an msd distributor with the set, do i need to change the gear on this? the block is a 1978 Lincoln block that is the same as the old mexikan/hipo block.
In my 68 block i have scorpion roller rockers standard ratio, will these be good for this combo, i will purchase the timing chain set and the thrust plate, this was very valuable information that i did not think about.
This is the camshaft i have https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/cca-cl31-600-8/overview/ i will need guides and hardened rods, but i dont have any data on the springs as they was bought by the last owner of the block, but never taken in use, the only thing i know is that there is dual springs.
Thanks again
Helge
Hello Helge

I'm assuming you are from another country... and parts may be a LOT more expensive. Your existing roller rockers will be just fine. Scorpion is a good brand.

The valve springs have to be specific for a hydraulic roller cam. If you are unsure, I would recommend having the existing springs tested if you have a spring tester, or buying new ones that are recommended for that camshaft.

As for the distributor gear, a hydraulic roller will require a melonized steel distributor gear. A cast iron gear will have a fairly rough, cast appearance. A steel gear will be smooth. I would advise looking at the gear yourself to see which one you have. It's criminal that Edelbrock does not specify which gear the kit comes with, as using the wrong gear will destroy the cam and distributor gear, while sending metal all through the engine. They should specify, and then offer two part numbers... one for flat tappet cams, and one for hydraulic rollers.

Edit:
I was curious, and actually called their tech line... (slow day) He said the kit comes with an iron gear.... so it's likely that you will need to change it. Look up how to do set the gear height, as it's not always as simple as pressing the original off, and pressing a new one on... as the hole isn't always in the right place. Sometimes, you have to rotate hole in the gear 90 degrees from the hole in the distributor, and drill a new hole at the correct height. You may be able to measure the hole height on both gears (from the bottom of the gear) and get lucky if they are the same. Else, you'll be drilling a new hole.

Cast iron vs Steel



Good Luck
 

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Hello Mike

Thanks again

Yes i am from Norway, but the prices are not to bad, but mostly i order from summit, jegs and other trusted companys but the shipping is a killer.

I will order the springs that are recomended to this cam and a new gear to the distributor, and take the rockers from the 68 block, they are almost new, and the engine will be stored if a buyer will have the matching number engine in the cougar.

I cant find any place the making of the thumpr cam, but i am pretty sure it is steel.

Thanks for calling the tech line, i agree edelbrock should have specified what cam it was for, it could have destroyed the engine. I bought the pro flo to fit the 68 engine, it was before i got the newer engine who was already 0.30 over, and i decided to build a more potent engine

I have sendt a request to jegs now, hopefully they have what i need :)

Thanks
Helge
 

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I have a new 410W with hyd roller and also the Pro Flo 4 system and you do not need to change the distributor gear.
The Edelbrock gear fits both for steel or regular camshaft designs

I am using the OEM spider plate lifter plate with COMP roller lifters in several engines and it works great
No need for expensive linked lifters. Just be very careful and check the clearance between dog legs and block... Also polish doglegs gently on the inside to eliminate any burs

Strokers need some extra lift so valvetrain is critical.
Definitely use ARP 7/16" studs/rockers for stability. Go for 1.6 Howard rockers 90081.. Good quality and good price
Also ditch any 7 degree retainers and use 10 degree retainers of good quality....They are safer and do not hammer the valves lock groves.....Dropping a valve is the last thing you want

I am installing a new Howard cam they are very helpful to choose correct cam so send them your setup!
With the Edelbrock Pro Flo system the engine works best with a 112 lobe seperation cam with higher lift and less duration
If you go for a hotter 110 cam long duration the engine will chudder in low rpm /gears with Edelbrock Pro Flo 4.........Pro Flo reacts quicker than other systems so the engine can behave nervous.
I have also rund Fitech and Sniper systems and those (bad) systems with wet manifolds have some "buffer" in the intake plenum so shudder is a less problem
 

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I have a new 410W with hyd roller and also the Pro Flo 4 system and you do not need to change the distributor gear.
The Edelbrock gear fits both for steel or regular camshaft designs
Just because it fits, doesn't mean it works... The hydraulic roller cam is made from a type of steel that will EAT the standard cast iron distributor gear. The distributor needs a melonized steel unit installed. If you are currently using a cast iron distributor gear on a hydraulic roller, I strongly suggest checking it for wear. When you see the issue, you'll need to replace it with the melonized steel unit. Be sure to measure the distributor distance between the gear and the pad where the distributor mounts against the block. There is a specific measurement it needs to be.

Burnishing the gears on a wire wheel before installing is also a good idea. Helps eliminate sharp edges that can start a bad wear pattern.

Good Luck
 

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Just because it fits, doesn't mean it works... The hydraulic roller cam is made from a type of steel that will EAT the standard cast iron distributor gear. The distributor needs a melonized steel unit installed. If you are currently using a cast iron distributor gear on a hydraulic roller, I strongly suggest checking it for wear. When you see the issue, you'll need to replace it with the melonized steel unit. Be sure to measure the distributor distance between the gear and the pad where the distributor mounts against the block. There is a specific measurement it needs to be.

Burnishing the gears on a wire wheel before installing is also a good idea. Helps eliminate sharp edges that can start a bad wear pattern.

Good Luck
Pro Flo 4 Distributor are not Cast Iron!
I checked with Nate at Edelbrock so you are wrong there.
 

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Pro Flo 4 Distributor are not Cast Iron!
I checked with Nate at Edelbrock so you are wrong there.
I saw conflicting reports, so I called the tech line as well... as reported in an earlier post in this thread. To confirm the gear material in your particular distributor, I highly recommend doing a visual inspection. There is a comparative photo in the same post. Whatever you do, make sure the gear material matches the camshaft. (Post #4 in this thread)

Good Luck
 

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I saw conflicting reports, so I called the tech line as well... as reported in an earlier post in this thread. To confirm the gear material in your particular distributor, I highly recommend doing a visual inspection. There is a comparative photo in the same post. Whatever you do, make sure the gear material matches the camshaft. (Post #4 in this thread)

Good Luck
I am doing a cam change right now after 3000miles with Pro Flo distributor and cam gear are as expected perfect

I got confirmed the gear is melonized from the Edelbrock technician

The cam style I have also run on other engines for years & years with MSD melonized gear with same result

No problem just run it!
 

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I am doing a cam change right now after 3000miles with Pro Flo distributor and cam gear are as expected perfect

I got confirmed the gear is melonized from the Edelbrock technician

The cam style I have also run on other engines for years & years with MSD melonized gear with same result

No problem just run it!
Same conversation, same tech line... got a different answer. Not saying you are lying, there's just conflicting information out there, so there could be both types of gears installed... so it's wise to check.
 
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