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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hi all
I have a 70 302. I just installed a comp 268 cam and was trying to adjust the rocker arms. The problem is that the nuts bottom out before they are adjusted. The heads have the stock press in studs and not enought thread. Im using the stock rockers and pushrods. Where do I go from here? Different pushrods rockers or what?
 

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One cheap sollution is to put washers under the nuts. It works but it´s not the right way. The right way would be to install screw-in studs and maybe even use different rockers and guideplates.
But if it´s a mild setup maybe washers would be an easy first step...
 

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i'm told the polylocks from mr gasket have a recess to allow the shoulder to be inside the polylock and allow adjustment. you need some kind of locknut anyway, so get them & even if the recess isnt there you can put the washers under the locks.
 

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How are you adjusting the rockers? You need to adjust them depending on valve timing. You can't just Crank down on them, if you are using adjustable rocker. Are the lifters hydralic, are they filled with oil?

There is usually more than enough adjustment. If you adjusting the rockers based correct location of cam lobes. I don't know your skill level, but if the cam is not at the top of the lobe...you aren't doing this corredctly.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 4/17/06 11:27pm ]</font>
 

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Alot of adjustment probs come from the lifters not being full of oil when they try to adjust them for the first time befor the first start up....... when the lifters are new they are not full of oil and colasp very easly and it is hard to do the first adjustment..... I use the EO IC medithod... EO= exhaust open IC= intake closed.
rotate the motor by hand untill the exhaust valve JUST starts to open then adjust the intake valve on that cylender. Losen the nut, spin the pushrod with finger tips , use you hand on the socked so you don't over tighten, just as you feel tension on the pushrod stop, then go another 1/4 to 1/2 turn.
Then rotate the motor again by hand just as the intake valve closes adjust the exhaust valve on that cylender..
I'd go over them a couple of times just to make sure. it is a tedeious at first but you well be glade you did...
After the motor has been ran a little while readjust the valves the same way..
Hopes this helps.
tim
 

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On 2006-04-18 01:55, Matte wrote:
Well.. it might be but isnt it so that our man has positive stop studs in his heads and that is the primal problem?
That may be the prob.. or not a prob....
with the lifters not pumped up with oil. they well colasp real easly so maybe he just thinks they are not adjusteing right as with the nut tight down the lifters steals colasp real easly and he just thinks there not adjusted...
YES- NO??
did you get it fixed???

tim
 

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You only need to preload the hydraulic lifters by about 1/4-1/2 turn after their is no more play in the pushrod. Their is no "LASH" adjustment you don't bottom them out . The stock components should be fine for your application, unless you have had alot of machine work done.
 

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Quick question, related to Edelbrock lifters. Edelbrock say not to pre fill their hydraulic lifters with oil when installing them so how can you set the rockers in this situation?

Cheers
 

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Bring them up snug (just take the play out of the push rod, not bottomed out) then 1/4 to 1/2 turn extra.
 

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Do like dfree383 says
its just hard to fugger out when there at 0 lash because they colasp real easly. I have found the the EO IC methiod best for me anyway..
tim
 

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I use the pushrod between the fingers method-tells you real fast as you tighten it down if the preload is close with no oil in the lifters.I have run engines with the washers and its ok as a fix.The Ford 6.905 longer push rod is maybe what you need, some of the 302w have these and crane sell them if you compare the price to screw in studs or the recessed posi locks whick work well too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanks for all the advice everyone. I do know how to adj. rockerarms with the lifters full and empty of oil. I have rebuilt 20 sum engines mainly chevy and mopars and have ran into this problem. Comp Cams does sell a kit for this problem but I only see it listed for 5/16" studs. I checked push rod length and they are fine. I am going to go with the poly lock nuts and treated washers and loose the double nut setup
 
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