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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 351c 4v CC heads and i want to run the comp XE284H with 240/246 duration and .584/.588 lift. My question is does anyone know if aftermarket pedestal roller rockers can handle this cam?The valve springs have a rate of 347lbs. I found a good set of pedestal roller rockers at http://www.dssracing.com/rockerarms.html

The reason for me trying to use pedestal rockers is cuz the guy here at the machine shop wants 300 dollars just to make them accept screwin studs. At that rate i will be spending more money on these heads then a pair of aftermarket aluminum heads!!!!

Please heeeeeelllllppppp me!!!!!!!!

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1972 Torino 351c

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dsfordguy on 6/3/06 5:00am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dsfordguy on 6/3/06 5:13am ]</font>
 

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Did he include the studs and guide plates? (About $100 for Quality parts)

If your that rattled about the price find another machine shop !!!

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1991 LX Mustang 347 C4 combo 11's with the AC on.
1984 Mustang GT 460, Powerglide "Still putting it together" hoping for 9's !!
1929 T-Altered "In the works" 8's are on the horizon

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dfree383 on 6/3/06 5:29am ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dfree383 on 6/3/06 5:31am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry guys I didn't mean to be such a cheapskate. His quote was 300 for just the machine work. I have decided to go ahead and get the machine work done otherwise I'm afraid I might regret it.


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1972 Torino 351c

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dsfordguy on 6/3/06 3:22pm ]</font>
 

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When i was building my motor i found that by the time you had your heads machined (not just for studs but as a complete overhaul) it was'nt much cheaper than buying aftermarket heads.
 

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If you are going to do it, you may as well do it right.... and there is a lot of work involved in setting up a set of 351C heads up for an adjustable valvetrain.

Of course, that being said.... With the aftermarket heads nowadays, it doesn't really pay to completely rebuild and modify old stockers anymore.

Good Luck!
 

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On 2006-06-03 04:21, 347LX wrote:
When i was building my motor i found that by the time you had your heads machined (not just for studs but as a complete overhaul) it was'nt much cheaper than buying aftermarket heads.
That is very true. I had a set of 302 heads on my cougar a while back with over $1300 in them, and they certainly weren't in the same league as the aftermarket heads.
In fact on those same heads, one of the press in studs eventually pulled out, which prompted me to get them converted to screw in studs.
I thought I'd save a few bucks by running the stockers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have already started to notice the price of my heads will be close to the same as aftermarkets but I have already gone too far into the process. I'm sure I'll be happy with the results once my build is done.
 

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If you are P.O.ed about the price of getting your heads setup to street performance standards...just wait'll you need to or try to sell them! That's when all the Clowns willl come out of the woodwork.

I actually prefer prepped, factory iron heads, but once you factor in the costs of basic (performance-type) machine work ... if you can find anyone competent ... you are going to end up getting in pretty deep.

Even worse, if you have any pretention toward Port 'n Polish and either can't do it yourself or would rather have it done right; then you are really going to have to put down a butt-load of hard earned cash. The good (or bad thing) about it, is no one can tell anything was "done" to the heads just by looking.

I hear a lot of guys complaining about cars that are all "Blinged" out, yet these same guys have $1500 - $2000 worth of aluminum heads on a Mom 'n Pop, 100K mile, short block ... where did that come from?

Anyway, you can't match the price of volume dealers/vendors, they hire "grunt workers" to bolt (foundry blanks) heads to a row of CNC machines. They only have to pay for competent head porter once to get the pattern...after that they hire a few guys at minimum wage + $2.00 to bolt them to the machine and pull them off... assembly is pretty much the same....Go to the shelf, get the box.

What comes out the door is most of the heads are OK, a few are passable, if you don't look too hard and the rest are a time bomb. The as-shpped springs, probably, won't match your cam, nor will the height, pressure, bind specs be checked. You never know if valve stem to seal clearance were checked, or if wrong seals are used. They may or may not have cups under the springs to keep the springs from digging into the bare aluminum spring pad...there are some real horror stories that come with mass-marketed heads, especially the base version.

I don't know which is worse, the high volume, aftermarket heads which have good free flowing modern designed ports and chamber...but usually-have lowest bidder, valve components, installed by uninspired drones or factory heads that cost so much in labor charges, that by the time you finish doing what needs to be done - you feel like a fool for investing all that cash into something you most likely can't even get 1/4 of your money back on re-sell.

The only solace you get is when your buddy, who bought the aluminum heads has to have them re-freshed, he'll be faced with the same issue. How much is it worth to fix his aluminum heads compared to just tossing'em and buying a new set?

I don't know the answer, but there are always a lot of used aluminum heads for sale at the local speed shop.

If you really care about your engine, then having an answer to questions about valve components, quality assembly is a big deal and worth the money in the long run. Another issue; you hear the standard line about 4v heads having too much flow, yet every extra 2-3 cfm that comes out of an inline (windsor-style) head is praised like the discovery of Atlantis has just occured. Granted, there is a lot of chamber to work with in Cleveland heads; but flow, is not going to be a major problem.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 6/4/06 9:25pm ]</font>
 

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Being the cheapskate that I am, I surfed E-bay until I found a deal on a set of CC 4V heads with studs and guideplates (and Parker stufers too) for about 1/2 price of making the same heads from oem castings.
There IS a lot of work required to install the studs and guideplates.
If you have really beefy valvesprings, the 5/16" pedestal bolts have been known to pull from the head.
 

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Running that cam, with those lift rates and spring pressures... $300 for studs will seem cheap compared to the damage you'll potentially do if you shear a bolt and lose a rocker. If the rocker goes, so does the pushrod and maybe a lifter.... and then the oil pressure!! Not to mention what a loose rocker will do to everything else, flying around inside the valve cover.

Think this one through.

Kevin
 
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