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Part #1 The pedal Assembly
Part # 2 Linkage (page 2)
Part # 3 Z-bar & mounts (page 3)
I used the kit from Mustangsteve66 on Ebay.



I did not do the mod as mustangsteve66's has instructed. I did not use the large washers that are suppose to be welded to the inside of the pedal support. Instead I just ground the original aluminum bushings down.



This left the original spacers for the brake pedal in tacked. In doing this I did not have to try to locate the proper positioning of the pedal shaft as you would have to do if the original bushing were completely removed.



The bearing races will fit over the outside of the remaining original bushing.



Time to mock up the assembly for welding. You will notice there is a gap between the pedal shaft and the original bushing.



To center the shaft in the bushing, take the old plastic brake pedal inserts and cut about 1/4 inch off them. These will be temporary spacers.



Put one of the small washers from the kit on the pedal shaft, then one of the bearings, one of the temp spacers, and a bearing race.



Install the clutch pedal into the pedal support, making sure the spacer goes inside the aluminum bushing.
Then push the second spacer into the bushing on the other side.



Then place the second bearing race over the original bushing.



Then the second bearing.



And finally the second small washer and the original clip.



It is now time to tack weld the races to the support.
After tacking remove bearings and clutch pedal from the support.(remember to discard the temporary spacers, as they are no longer needed.
Now finish weld the races as per Mustangsteve66's instructions.
CAUTION Too long and hot of a weld will melt the aluminum bushings.

Part # 2 Linkage

To modify the linkage rods I used 3 studded spherical female rod ends.
The size is 3/8"-24 female right hand thread with a 3/8"-24 stud.
Other things needed for this step.
Automotive stud 3/8"-24 on one end 3/8"-16 on the other. I used one about 1-1/2 inches long.
Will also need a 1 and 1/2 inch long 3/8"-16 nut.



I used 3/8" because the linkage rod from pedal to Z-bar was just under 7/16"

To mount the rod ends to the linkage rod I first cut off the 90* bend at each end. (cut as close to the 90* as you can)



The linkage rod is slightly to thick to just use a 3/8"-24 thread cutter. To reduce the diameter to a more suitable thickness, I used a variable speed drill. With the drill mounted in a vice.
Place the rod 1/2" into the drill and slowly spin the rod while using a 4" grinder with a flap disc sanding wheel to reduce the diameter to just over 3/8"
Do this to both ends.
I used a zip tie to adjust the speed of the drill.



Remove from drill and cut off the 1/2" that was in the drill.
With the diameter reduced, I was able to thread both ends about 1-1/2" each.



Thread one jam nut and one rod end on each end of the linkage rod. (jam nuts not in photo)

Now on to the automotive stud. The one I used was 3/8"-24 on one end and 3/8"-16 on the other. It was threaded about 3/4 inch on each end with 1/4 inch in the middle not threaded.
Use the thread cutter to finish cutting the threads on the 3/8"-24 end. So that the stud is now 3/4 " of 3/8"-16 threads on one end and 1" of 3/8"-24 threads on the other.
Then thread the into 3rd rod end
and the long 3/6"-16 nut on the remaining exposed stud.



The lower rod that goes from the Z-bar to clutch fork will need to bee shortened, when installed in the car.

Part #3 Z-bar & mounts

Things that were used for this part of the modification.
1. Mustang engine side Z-bar stud for I6/289/302.
I got this one on Ebay from 9799conniej (Mr. Mustang)
You can also get them from most any Mustang parts house.

2. Engine side Z-bar pivot mount bracket for newer 302 block.
Like this one from CJ Pony Parts

If you have an older block with the threaded boss for the engine side pivot this is not needed.
3. I also needed a second engine side stud. This one is shorter than the first one.

4. I used 2 spherical bearings (AIB-7) that came from:
https://www.motionindustries.com/
Specifications can be found here. Aurora Bearing
They are 7/16 ID by 1 inch OD, and ball width of 9/16.




Now for the Mods that need to be made.

Take the long and short pivot stud, and place the threaded end in a drill with at least 1/2 inch chuck. The part of the stud that the plastic bushing went on is only 1/2" long, and needs to be 9/16".
While spinning the studs in the drill, I used a Dremel with cutoff wheel to grind down the extra 1/16".



The shorter stud one extra mod. The shoulder of the nut needs to be clearance for the outer race to pivot freely.



Now for the frame side pivot bracket.
Place the bracket on a large socket that will fit over the pivot stud.



And drive out the stud with a hammer.



Now grind down the raised rib the is around the hole from the stud.
With a 1/2"-13 nut and lock washer, fasten the stud to the bracket.
Not shown is the metal & felt washers that goes on before the bearing.



If using the engine side bracket, now is the time to bolt the shorter stud to it. Put the other large washer between the stud and bracket, then place felt washer over the stud and against the washer, then bearing and clip.

New for the modification that the Z-bar needs.

The spherical bearing's OD is 1 inch, and the ID of the Z-bar is 1 inch. To get the bearing to fit the ID of the Z-bar needs to be enlarged. To do this I used a small brake cylinder hone.



Work the hone in and out of the ends of the Z-bar until the bearings will slide in with little resistance.







The flowing steps and the installation I have photos for but am unable to locate them. They will be added when found.

To grease the bearings 2 grease zerks.
On the engine side of the Z-bar one was put on the top side. (grease able from under hood)
It was placed as far from the bearing as possible. Do not use one of the clip holes, they are not far enough back.
On the frame side of the Z-bar one was put on the bottom side. (grease able from under car)
To clear the frame rail I had to drill 1/4 inch hole about 1 inch deeper into the end of this side, and then drill a hole in from the side.
I used self taping zerks as they were cheaper than a tap.
 

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This needs to be saved in TECH ARTICLES, whomever the GRAND POOBAH is here.

Valuable Info!
 
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