Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
596 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
anyone know what the allowable limits are for a 1965 mustang w/ stock front disc brakes. local shop charges $15/per to turn them but if i can mic. them myself and there out then no point in having them turned. thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,424 Posts
HI
Most of the shops should check them first to see if they are turnable.. Its a safty deal and they won't turn one if it is too far gone..
Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
25 Posts
The quick and easy no tech way is to look at the outside edge. You should see a slight bevel. If there is bevel left they can be turned. If no bevel they are already at or beyond limits. Even if you can turn the rotors there's still a chance they will not clean up i.e. still be grooved. Replace em.

There is a point to having them turned if they are in or out of spec. Any time you replace the pads the rotors should be turned, if only to true them up and remove the glaze so the pads can seat to a new surface. It's really a small price to pay to have your brakes work correctly.

Really want to take chances with your brakes on a "Classic"?

BTW, there is a difference between their, there and they're.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,424 Posts
On 2006-03-20 13:30, MMinNM wrote:
BTW, there is a difference between their, there and they're.
OH WELL... as long as I get my point across... American English has to many words that say the same thing... You could spell your name Smith and pronounce it Jermouskie. It don't matter there all silent.. LOL


Tim
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
34,854 Posts
Hey Gerogia..... About your rotors... The Parts store that SELLS the new rotor's WILL have the MIN. allowed THickness rating for your rotor by checking the replacement part. 99% of the time they will have the #'s in their computers and can tell you over the phone. Mic it yourself. I've seen rotors without the little bevel on the edge pass, (I've passed them with PLENTY of thickness left for turning).
Another Thing:
Today's Brake Pads, Bendix for example are designed to be slapped into place without turning your rotor's to remove any glazing and require a very short burn in. It was recommended to me and I've used it for years before this class I had by the Bendix brake people, to make the burn in in less than 5 stops from 35 mph to zero, son in essence you could break in your own brakes before you got home.

Rotors needing turned are either deeply grooved from running metal into metal, or warped, and the warped ones like to vibrate when slowing. With the cheap chinese knock off's going for $20-$25 bucks over the counter, many people now just throw on new rotors with the pads... (note the $25-25 bucks is not for rotors that incorporate the hub assembly).

Hope that helps a little!

FE

_________________
I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have ourselves!

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FEandGoingBroke on 3/21/06 6:30am ]</font>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,692 Posts
As long as the rotors aren't warped or cracked then throw some Carbon Metallics on them and run 'em. I've used the Performance Friction pads on a couple grooved rotors(rivets from the pads) and they straightened them out in just a couple 100 miles.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top