Hey Gerogia..... About your rotors... The Parts store that SELLS the new rotor's WILL have the MIN. allowed THickness rating for your rotor by checking the replacement part. 99% of the time they will have the #'s in their computers and can tell you over the phone. Mic it yourself. I've seen rotors without the little bevel on the edge pass, (I've passed them with PLENTY of thickness left for turning).
Today's Brake Pads, Bendix for example are designed to be slapped into place without turning your rotor's to remove any glazing and require a very short burn in. It was recommended to me and I've used it for years before this class I had by the Bendix brake people, to make the burn in in less than 5 stops from 35 mph to zero, son in essence you could break in your own brakes before you got home.
Rotors needing turned are either deeply grooved from running metal into metal, or warped, and the warped ones like to vibrate when slowing. With the cheap chinese knock off's going for $20-$25 bucks over the counter, many people now just throw on new rotors with the pads... (note the $25-25 bucks is not for rotors that incorporate the hub assembly).
Hope that helps a little!
I may be schizophrenic, but at least I have ourselves!
<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: FEandGoingBroke on 3/21/06 6:30am ]</font>