Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

21 - 38 of 38 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
why is welding stainless dangerous? I do that from time to time too.
I am a welder by trade actually got sent to this site from miller welding forums,

Stainless Steel, Chrome Molly, and a few select other metals put off Chromium Hexavalents which are very very bad for your skin and lungs we are required by osha to either wear a respirator or positive pressure ventilation system while welding such materials. the amount you can breath as far as osha's regs are less than 5 parts per million with out needing a respirator and as most of you can guess it goes that high pretty much as soon as you strike the arc i could only imagine what electralysis would put off
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
28 Posts
wow, me and a buddy tried this method and it works great.
first tested on generator bracket then a water pump from a flathead.
amazing. i can save $$ from the beadblaster now.

thanks for the chemistry lesson.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,307 Posts
The same runoff from soda blasting and home clothes washing machines is not considered hazardous here, however, it would depend on what you were removing. Personally, I skim the crud and filter the remainder before disposal so there's no question about the grease and paint. Sodium carbonate and rust in water is not considered hazardous in my area at least. Straight down the drain is allowed. Check your local laws.

David
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
301 Posts
Check this out. I make setup using scrap steel tubing held to the side of a 5 gallon bucket with jumper cables my test went really good and I realized I needed to leave it longer. But I broke it down and came back to it the next day. Being that I've been burning the candle at both ends trying to get my car running I was tired and distracted. Here's the good part. I hooked up the cables backwards! The carnage was impressive. These valve covers were already written off because of the rust. My problem was with all the red-black going on. I just didn't pay attention. Lesson learned.

 

·
Banned
Joined
·
864 Posts
It's good to know this stuff.
I for one am glad you let us know about a ahh crap.
And showed us the result.
Then someday I wont make the same mistake.
Thanks

Rich Sr.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,307 Posts
Fortunately, it was a cheap lesson for you. I learned that one many years ago removing light surface rust on a finished pair of ported 440 6-pack heads that were poorly stored. The one head didn't pit as bad as your photo - but bad enough. :( Well, it became an excuse to get the Stage IV heads. I almost worked a trade of the fresh 440 long block and a complete 428CJ for a compete '71 Hemi, but that fell through at the last minute. So, it remains a bad memory... lol.

David
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,466 Posts
Wish I would have known about this years ago. I am putting an 8.8 from a 10 year old Explorer in my car. Coming from the rust belt every part on it was rusted. I used a barrel to drop the rear in one side at a time. I have sacrificed quite a few electrodes and had great results. If you get uniforms metal coat hangers work well. Scrap pipe has a lot of surface area and also works well. Thanks for getting me started. I did see an article that said heating baking soda to over 300 degrees F for at least an hour will make it washing soda. That's what I did and it works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,187 Posts
I used this method decades ago. Used an old storage battery (who doesn't have an under performer lying around) and a big bolt as sacrificial metal. Looked to be working for the water turned green within about twenty minutes. But main thing was there was a black scum on all the former rusty parts. The method did not go direct at the rust, but instead at whatever made the best bare metal contact with the water. The black scum layed down on top of the rust too. If grease was present, it sort of skipped over that area.

Most annoying thing was it did not go direct at the rust, but mainly at the already bare metal areas. Was told to try a differnt chemical for the greasy areas first, and then one for rusty areas.

Never found out where to get the chemicals, but was not at any supermarket.


Wm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,307 Posts
I checked on various sites and found (Car 4WD Rust Proofing with the CAT Electronic Protection System to be giving the rust process information in a very clear way. It also provides information about how rust protection system works and the benefits along with customer testimonials.
Worth checking out!
Yeah, that's yet another ICCP (Impressed Current Cathodic Protection) unit. Used in many industries for corrosion control. There was an article on the web about making your own truly functional system for under $30, along with some great advice on grounding, anode materials, electrochemical potential, and verifying the neutralization of the corrosion loop by a retired designer of the things. It was originally conceived for small parked or stored private aircraft with all their corrosion-prone aluminum, magnesium, wiring, etc. A quick search didn't find it but I'll keep looking and post it here.

David
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Does the part have to be totally suspended or can it be done half and half , and also I think if you derust something and never want the rust to come back look into por15. It's kind or expensive but I hear it is a legend in rust prevention for life.

Thanks for the post now the bead lasting is out of the picture
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,665 Posts
I tried this and got some ok results. It is best on small parts because the corrosion builds up quickly on the electrode and then the elecrolysis stops. But don't believe the hype. I did a rear end pumpkin last year using a long loop of copper tubing around and around the part. I had to keep taking the tubing out to clean it off. Had to change water because it got so cloudy I couldn't see to set the tubing back in. Job took up most of the day but it finally did get most of the rust out of the inside of the pumpkin.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
I like it because my truck is a total rust wagon, and instead of buying all new brackets and stuff I can do it this way.

Another question is that if I could do this with non aluminum heads and intake. When Im done just rinse out with MEK
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top