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my 87 5.0 came with a smaller starter. is it wired the same as the older? i see 1 maybe 2 posts and a tab like speaker connection as well. looks like one post may not be for attaching a wire just one...but maybe both! this is why i am asking! i'm not sure
 

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No, they're not wired the same. I went with the smaller unit on my '82GT to replace the big bulky one. I can't remember off-hand but there are two wires that get swapped around.
If nobody chimes in here with the how the wires go, I'll post it on here tomorrow when I get a chance to go out and look at mine.
 

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Are you still looking for how it gets wired?
 

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No, it doesn't matter that you have a smaller tooth count. I will get out to my garage and look at how mine is wired and let you know
 

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If your original starter had only the large (batt cable size) cable running to it, then the new "mini" starter will need to have a small wire(from the tab that looks like a speaker wire connection) hooked up to the same post as the large one hooks to. Just put an eyelet on the end of the short small wire and slide it on the large post under the large cable.That's the only connection the starter will need to operate correctly.


Terry

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: cadillac512 on 2/26/06 8:49pm ]</font>
 

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Here how it is on mine:
The battery side of the solenoid(bottom) goes to the starter. The other end of the solenoid(top) also connects to the starter which is a smaller gauge wire. You will know which wire connects where on the starter.
I "think" that what cadillac was trying to say.
I'll try and clear it up more if you're still confused.
 

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On 2006-02-26 11:39, 82GT wrote:
Here how it is on mine:
The battery side of the solenoid(bottom) goes to the starter. The other end of the solenoid(top) also connects to the starter which is a smaller gauge wire. You will know which wire connects where on the starter.
I "think" that what cadillac was trying to say.
I'll try and clear it up more if you're still confused.
I need some help regarding replacing my old starter with a new style, smaller one.
I ran the positive cable from the battery to the large post (closest to it, on the bottom left). I then ran the heavy wire from the same post to the starter. On the opposite side, I ran the red wire, which came with the new starter (from the right lower large post) and attached it to the plug connector on the starter. All seemed correct... It was turning over but not starting.

I then looked at the diagram that came with my new starter and saw that their diagram shows the wires just the reverse. I changed the wiring around and got nothing. The interior light wouldnt even come on.

Figuring the diagram was wrong, I switched it back. Now the interior light is on again, but the car wont turn over. All I hear is a buzzing sort of clicking sound, like a dead battery makes. Could I have toasted something ...like my MSD box...by reversing the wires and following the diagram? I tested the battery and it shows that it has a charge.
 

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The way you need to wire a mini starter is run the big battery cable from your solenoid on the fender to the big post on the starter. The small wire needs to run from the small post on the starter to the same post on the fender mounted solenoid as the start wire from the ignition switch. This will eleminate any starter run on issues that will accure when hooked up the other ways.
 

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I'd follow econodrag's recommendations. That's the way
they're supposed to work. And that is the way the Ford
Racing one is set up to work.
I bought my mini-starter from PA Performance and it
took a seperate relay to make it work properly.
 

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On 2006-05-31 17:03, 66GT289 wrote:
I'd follow econodrag's recommendations. That's the way
they're supposed to work. And that is the way the Ford
Racing one is set up to work.
I bought my mini-starter from PA Performance and it
took a seperate relay to make it work properly.
That's the way mine is and that's how I was trying to explain it to him.
 

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I have a Summit unit on the 351C and a Powermaster on the 302 - both use a single large feed from the battery opposite side of the solenoid (which happens to be in the trunk on both cars). Not as cheap as the Ford units but no wiring issues. I'll have to grap a late model next time I'm at the wrekers and experiment with it - no reason why it shouldn't work the same.
 

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Well, I actually have it running but I'm still confused by the problem. I charged up the battery once more. I then load tested it and id was showing the low end of acceptable. I then put it in the car and noted that the interior light was on. I turned the key and nothing. Ok...I figured maybe the battery is the problem. I attached my portable jumper and still nothing. I repositioned the cable and it now turned right over. I let it run for about 5 minutes and shut it down. I 'm now wondering if there might be a couple of corroded cables. After it cools I'll have to take a look.

On 2006-05-31 12:47, econodrag wrote:
The way you need to wire a mini starter is run the big battery cable from your solenoid on the fender to the big post on the starter. The small wire needs to run from the small post on the starter to the same post on the fender mounted solenoid as the start wire from the ignition switch. This will eleminate any starter run on issues that will accure when hooked up the other ways.
Anyway, getting back to how my mini starter is wired. The included paperwork showed to attach the large (+) cable to the post on the battery, and then attach it to one of the large posts on the original fender mounted solenoid. It shows to attach the new (red) switch wire to the opposite side large post. The original Ignition switch wire doesn’t change and still attaches to one of the small terminals on the original solenoid.
But from what you guys are saying... is that wrong? The starter looks just like the Ford high torque mini starter with a solenoid mounted right on it.

But as I mentioned above, I attached the 2 wires opposite to what they show in their diagram. When I did it the way they show in the diagram, I my interior light wouldn’t even come on.


_________________
1980 T-Bird,
Warmed up 302 CI w/ ported/polished heads
MSD ignition system, C-4 Trans w/shift kit and B&M Megashifter, 8.8 Trac-Lok rear with 5 lug conversion
Dual 2.5" exhaust w/ equal length long tube headers

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BBCFORD on 6/1/06 11:26pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BBCFORD on 6/1/06 11:27pm ]</font>

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BBCFORD on 6/1/06 11:28pm ]</font>
 

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Here is a very crude diagram for you to see. This wiring will keep the starter from running on after you release the ignition switch. Don't laugh at my drawing.

 

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On 2006-06-01 09:48, econodrag wrote:
Here is a very crude diagram for you to see. This wiring will keep the starter from running on after you release the ignition switch. Don't laugh at my drawing.
I'm sorry dude, but I have to laugh at least a little bit at that badass drawing. It's in about the same league as most of my drawings.



Accuracy is spot on.
 

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Econodrag...thanks for the diagram. I contacted the company that sold me the starter and told him about the situation I had regarding his "reversed diagram". Here was his reply to wire it up correctly:

"There is also a third smaller wire that needs to connect with the 2 large cables. It feeds your ignition switch, lights, etc. As long as you have the 2 large cables and this wire together on either of the large solenoid terminals, and the small red wire connected by itself on the other large terminal and running to the solenoid switch terminal on the starter, everything will work fine. Either right or left.. Sorry about the confusion.
Thanks, Mike"

I believe what your all saying... but...Does that also make sense? The guy is saying I have to run both heavy wires to the same large post and the new wire goes on the opposite side all by itself.
It does start this way, but if I'm going to have run on problems I will rig it up like Econodrag says.

_________________
1980 T-Bird,
Warmed up 302 CI w/ ported/polished heads
MSD ignition system, C-4 Trans w/shift kit and B&M Megashifter, 8.8 Trac-Lok rear with 5 lug conversion
Dual 2.5" exhaust w/ equal length long tube headers

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: BBCFORD on 6/2/06 8:43pm ]</font>
 

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To make the mini starter work properly the main heavy wire that originally went from the solenoid to the old starter should be hooked up to the opposite large post of the solenoid. This is the post that the battery + lead goes to along with all the other wires that were originally hooked up to that side. The starter will now have 12 volts at all times to the large post. Run the smaller wire that came with the kit to the "speaker" wire terminal at the starter and the other end to the large terminal of the solenoid that the large starter wire used to be hooked to_Only the small wire from the starter will be hooked to the "start" side of the fender mounted solenoid.That's it,all other wiring should be the same as original.The reason your interior lights and stuff stopped working must be because you moved the wrong wires.The rough drawing Econodrag posted may work but isn't the correct way to hook it up.

My long winded discription is basically what the company you got the starter from told you.Good luck.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Just Jim on 6/3/06 12:13pm ]</font>
 

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My ford truck which has a factory installed mini starter has the main,large, hot wire running to thehot terminal on the battery.However the problem i have had is it corrodes and i have replaced it 2 times in a couple of years.
Let me tell you why this site is so great! Last night I fired up the galaxie after working on it for several months transplanting the 347 into it from the lx.My mini starter was "running-on" now I know why it was doing it,I had te small starter seleniod wire hooked up to the starter post on the fenderwell seleniod as well as the large hot starter wire.
THANKS EVERYONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 347LX on 6/3/06 7:38pm ]</font>
 
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