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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
About a week ago, my Falcon picked up a tick coming from the front driver's side of the motor, sounds like the top. Sounded too mechanical to be an exhaust leak. Too "sharp", not enough of a "pffft"

The car runs fine. identical to pre-tick. It's been nearly impossible to localize, and the screwdriver stethoscope hasn't revealed anything.

At first I was thinking valves, but I pulled the valve cover and everything's fine. No broken parts, no loose pushrods. Relived, but still hunting for the noise.

Listening a little closer, I noticed it might be lower, possibly the fuel pump. I googled something like "ford fuel pump 260 289 ticking" and saw a bunch of results for people with cars running fine and motors mysteriously ticking right about there.

$50 and a new fuel pump later...still ticking

I'm like...fine, maybe it is an exhaust leak. I go to check the torque on the bolts and realize the ear on the #5 cylinder (i.e. right on the front side of the engine) is cracked all the way off. As I unbolt it, the outside piece just falls off.

Aha!...

...But I can't feel the telltale puff of exhaust coming from anywhere around the port.
...and I pull the spark plug wire to #5 as another test. Figure no combustion = no exhaust = no noise. Still ticking. ???

Last check I do, I just back the bolts on #5 all the way off. Figure if it's not and exahust leak on #5, I'll create and exhaust leak on #5 just to confirm.

Bolts out = no change[/i]

Based on that, either it is and exhaust leak (and I just ca't feel it), or it's not an exhaust leak and somehow the manifold gasket is holding with loose bolts. Before I go hunting for a new exhaust manifold only to learn that's not the problem either, I figured I'd do a sanity check here.

Help me, Ford Muscle, you're my only hope! So...
(A) Was it the fuel pump and there's some subtlety to re-installing a FP that I screwed up?
(B) Yep, you've got an exhaust leak, time to hunt down headers or that super-rare C3DE-9431-A manifold (Falcon/Comet only)
(C) Gotta be valvetrain, check again
(D) None of the above, it's __________ (cam, valve seal, timing chain oil pump...dunno)

Thanks for reading all the way to the end.
 

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I find exhaust leaks usually sounds worse(louder)when the engine is under load(accelerating)..A valvetrain tick will just stay the same regardless of whether it's under load or not..You may have to remove the manifold to actually see the tell tale black exhaust soot pointing to the leak..
 

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Why not pull the manifold, inspect the gasket and area for signs of leakage. Throw a straight edge on the manifold to see if it's warped. Look for cracks in manifold.

If it's warped, probably could be milled smooth at a machine shop.

If you want headers, Hedman shortys 88400's should fit.

I like to use the Percys layered aluminum header gaskets. As they are reusable.

I don't think just pulling the plug wire will help you, your still running a air pump there with the piston going up and down and valves opening and closing.
I think that only works for rod knock, since you don't have the combustion forcing the piston down.

Jet
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I guess I'll pull it and see what I see.

If it's warped, probably could be milled smooth at a machine shop.
I suppose a shop or good welder could weld the ear back on, but that starts to rival a new (used) mainfold in price.

If you want headers, Hedman shortys 88400's should fit.
These will clear the z-bar on a stickshift?

If I wasn't getting ready for the SoCal TT in a few weeks, I'd definitely go with headers, but I'm not sure I've got time to get headers and modify the exhaust. Tempting, though.
 

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I'm running a Hyd clutch and a IFS from Rod & Custom.

I went to summits site, says no to manual trans. So, I would guess it will not clear the Z bar.

You may be able to find someone to weld the ear back on. I had a 4.0L jeep head welded up.

Jet
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Finally got around to getting the manifold off. Anyone else notice those 9/16" head bolts feel a bit loose in a 9/16" wrench?

Anyway, I think I found the culprit. Look at this shot:


The busted ear is on the left (forward on the engine), but I think it's leaking out the bottom-right (rear) of the port, right towards the spark plug...right where I'd never get a finger to feel. The gasket there looks a bit different.

Also, the base of the plug is waaaay more cooked than the other 4 down that side:


...you can just barely make out what's left of "Motorcraft" in that yellowish section. Here's a pristine example.

Given that the ear's cracked off the manifold, I already ordered the replacement. Hopefully it gets here in time. (Oddly enough, my '69 Jeep Wagoneer has a cracked exhaust manifold as well...but that one was easier to find).

It looks and feels like there's almost no gaskets on this assembly. Either they're super-thin, or they just used some high-temp silicone or something for the seal.
 

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I've got the same issue with my Ba xr6, I've replaced spark plugs, fuel pump, outlet manifold gasket, exhaust flange gasket, and even dropped the oil incase there was an airlock in one of the valves, engine runs like a dream and doesn't miss at all just has an annoying tick noise, its not the injectors as it seems to be coming from the drivers side of the engine... really annoying.. Have you found where your noise was coming from?? I
 

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If the new manifold doesn't arrive in time you can put it back on and get one of the heavier grade 8 washers and put it under the bolt head on the broken ear. I've used them before to make a permanent repair that didn't leak.
 

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I had a leaky header gasket.. It sounded like a valve or rocker noise. Had two guys listen to it and said leaky exhaust..

There is a trick.. You can get a metal rod and on the end put some tolit paper on the end by tape. and you can put it at various places to see if the paper moves. Once you fnd a suspect area. Let the car cool down, then start it again and why the exhaust is cool put your hand near it and see if it is leaking..
 
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