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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Seems to be a lot of questions regarding how to and what you need to install the Scarebird disc setup, I know I had a few before I started. So I figured I'd do a write up on it. There are a few other write ups on it, however not quite as much detail. Hope this helps someone down the road!

Parts used:

- Scarebird Disc Brake Adapter
- Inner Bearing (68 Mustang)
- Inner oil seal (68 Mustang)
- Outer Bearing (66 Galaxie)
- Hardware kit (66 Galaxie)
- Dust cap (68 Mustang) ** Don't use the one I used... junk...
- Brake Caliper (97 S10)
- Brake Pads (97 S10)
- Brake Hardware (97 S10)
- Two grade 8 bolts and nuts
- Rubber hose (Can't remember what it goes to, I'll update this)
- Dual Master Cylinder (69 Galaxie)
- Proportioning Valve (Wilwood Universal)

Some of this stuff you can get away with reusing what is on your car, however I figured since I was in there I would replace it all.

Here are a few pictures of the brackets







I decided to go ahead and paint them for rust protection.

Scuffed


Primed


Painted


So getting started. This is what it started out as.



Remove the wheel


Remove the dust seal


Remove the castle nut and coupler pin


Remove the retaining nut


Remove the retaining washer


Remove the outer bearing


Now the drum will slide off, may take some convincing.




There are three bolts that hold the drum plate to the spindle.






Then the drum plate with everything attached to it will slide off (with some convincing)


Lastly, disconnect the rubber hose, I use a hammer to pull the retaining plate out.






So, this is everything that I had to remove from the existing set up.



Your spindle should look like this.


This is everything that is going on it (for one side)


Install the bracket, I purchased two new bolts for the bottom, the kit comes with the top bolt.








Install the spacer plate (provided by scarebird kit) beveled side inward.




Pack the inner bearing and place it in the backside of the rotor




Then install the inner seal




Grease the spindle and install the rotor




Pack and grease the outer bearing, then install




Install the retaining washer, retaining bolt, castle bolt, and coupler pin. (in that order.














This should be what it looks like.


Install the dust shield, I would not reccomend the Mr. Gasket set that I got, you can see I had to mash the **** out of them to get it in, the just don't fit well.


 

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Discussion Starter #2
On to the caliper, install the rubber hose with the copper crush seals and banjo bolt. WARNING! I installed the hose upside down on the caliper, the hose has a small lip on one side, that MUST be on the outside, not towards the caliper or you will not get a seal... Ask me how I found that out....







The caliper installs with the two guide bolts from the hardware kit. Make sure you install the pads first. The pictures don't show pads (i hadn't purchased them yet). The rubber hose hooks up just like the stock one you removed.



All done with one side (other than bleeding and replacing the master cylinder.



I didn't take detailed pictures of the master cyilinder install, sorry. Here is a picture though! I HIGHLY recommend bench bleeding your new master cyilinder before installing. The first one I had was leaking from the bore on the back, took me quite some time to figure out why I couldn't get hard brakes. It was a new master, however it's prob sat so long that the rubber has gone bad.

Also, side note, the small front reservoir is for the rear brakes, the larger rear reservoir is for the front. The proportioning valve installed on the rear line.





That's all I got, bleed them a lot, took me a few times before they finally felt right.

Hope this helps someone down the road...

-Zig
 

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Also, side note, the small front reservoir is for the rear brakes, the larger rear reservoir is for the front. The proportioning valve installed on the rear line.


Hope this helps someone down the road...

Just to confirm you installed the proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes and not the rear master cylinder Line?
Excellent write up thanks
 

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Is there a kit like this that will work on a 64?
It doesn't seem to be that daunting a task with a kit like this.
 

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Is there a kit like this that will work on a 64?
It doesn't seem to be that daunting a task with a kit like this.
your only getting the cad plated caliper brackets from scarebird...

the other parts you pick up from your local parts store or junk yard...

parts are readily available anywhere and fairly in expensive...

and yes they do 64 also...
believe they give you a list of needed parts to complete project when ordering bracket...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also, side note, the small front reservoir is for the rear brakes, the larger rear reservoir is for the front. The proportioning valve installed on the rear line.


Hope this helps someone down the road...

Just to confirm you installed the proportioning valve on the line to the rear brakes and not the rear master cylinder Line?
Excellent write up thanks
Correct!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Is there a kit like this that will work on a 64?
It doesn't seem to be that daunting a task with a kit like this.
There are kits that exist, however they are $1,000+, it's much easier to piece it together on your own. I think I got <$400 in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hey Ziggy, I used that kit. The big bolt into the spindle needs a 13/16" wrench, not something lots folks have on hand. Now here is a pic from my 1965 Scarebird job, http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/511825-report-scarebird-disc-front-brake-conversion.html do you think I have the banjo in backwards? I had some trouble with a leak.
No, your's appears correct. I circled the lip in these two pictures. It will keep the hose from sitting flush if it is towards the caliper. I had a hard time getting mine leak free, ended up having to use a bit a sealer on the banjo (which I've never had to do on a banjo.)







-Zig
 

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Great job on your scarebird conversion Ziggy, and nice write-up!

To 462ho: After way too much research I finally went with the Wilwood kit for my '64. And now I'm just waiting patiently for spring so I can do mine.

Here's a link if interested:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-14013653/overview/year/1964/make/ford/model/galaxie-500

I may also do a write-up with pics, when I do mine.

Norm

Is there a kit like this that will work on a 64?
It doesn't seem to be that daunting a task with a kit like this.
 

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Excellent write up!! Any regrets on the install? How does it feel with the manual disc brakes up front compared to the manual drum brakes?

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Excellent write up!! Any regrets on the install? How does it feel with the manual disc brakes up front compared to the manual drum brakes?

Sent from my STV100-2 using Tapatalk
None at all, I still have a soft petal, think there is still some air in the lines figure I'd drive for a few weeks and let the air consolidate.

With that being said I still don't have a great review of how they feel.

-Zig
 

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None at all, I still have a soft petal, think there is still some air in the lines figure I'd drive for a few weeks and let the air consolidate.

With that being said I still don't have a great review of how they feel.

-Zig
I couldn't tell from the pictures. Are the bleeders on top or bottom (low) on the calipers? If they are low, could be air trapped in the caliper?
 

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None at all, I still have a soft petal, think there is still some air in the lines figure I'd drive for a few weeks and let the air consolidate.

With that being said I still don't have a great review of how they feel.

-Zig
make sure and adjust the rear brakes as well.
it will make huge difference in pedal feel also...
 

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A quick question about the bevelled spacer plate , was it a knock on fit as it states in the instructions or was it a loose fit like mine ?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
A quick question about the bevelled spacer plate , was it a knock on fit as it states in the instructions or was it a loose fit like mine ?
I did not have to hammer it on, however it was a nice snug fit.
 

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One quick question on the master install did you use your stock linkage or get new, I'm in the process with My66 now and how much adjustment on the perportioning valve was required
PS. The pictures are invaluable again thanks from the beginners
 
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