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Discussion Starter #1
Bought an 80 Granada for a little hot rod project. Pulled the 255 this weekend to replace with a low mileage roller cam 302. The engine is in place but It came carbed with a billet HEI one wire distributor.

Now I understand that Ford used a separate start and run wire to the coil. My confusion starts at the ignition module. Every diagram I have seen shows 6 wires not 9 like coming out of my module. I want to delete this and clean up the wiring. But I want to know what all I am removing before I do. Honestly if the stock unit was in better shape I would consider running it. But all the connectors are melted and it really looks bad.

Also I do not see the resistor. Is it in the module, under the dash, or a resistor wire that needs to be bypassed?
 

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Hello

Did you ever think of using the 255 dizzy?

You can change the lower gear for use with the roller engine.

tbirdtess
 

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... It came carbed with a billet HEI one wire distributor.
...
My confusion starts at the ignition module. Every diagram I have seen shows 6 wires not 9 like coming out of my module.
...
Also I do not see the resistor. Is it in the module, under the dash, or a resistor wire that needs to be bypassed?
OK, last first - your resistor is a fat PINK wire under the dash, between the ignition switch "C" terminal and the main firewall connector. It is often crimped into the RED-GRN coil wire - but not always. The PINK wire is the one to bypass to feed full battery power to the distributor.

The billet HEI 1-wire distributor is effectively a GM distributor made to fit a Ford. The module info you need is GM. I have that info, but it would be simplest if you posted a photo of the module (or at least a valid part number), as both 6 and 9-pin do not jive.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The billet HEI 1-wire distributor is effectively a GM distributor made to fit a Ford. The module info you need is GM. I have that info, but it would be simplest if you posted a photo of the module (or at least a valid part number), as both 6 and 9-pin do not jive.

David
The HEI is not what I am asking about. The factory Ford ICM has 9 wires. I am wanting to remove this to clean up the engine bay. Before I do, I want to know Exactly what I am removing Before I create even bigger problems. I am sure at least 1 of these wires will supply my 12v. to the HEI distributor. So far every Diagram I have seen shows 6 wires from the module not 9 like I have.
 

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Ah, okay. Here you go.

David

1980 was a good year :rolleyes: :
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you. Exactly what I needed to see. This leads to one more question.

After removing the module. The white wire can be capped off. The red wire should still have 12v.

Would this be a good source for the electric choke and fuel pump, and what will it do to the charge indicator light?
 

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you dont need a module . . throw all that ugly stuff away.

buy a regular old school style distributor.

buy an msd epoxy filled coil.

if you have a huge cam, buy an msd multi fire 6al box for $200.00

set the distributor up so you have 12 at idle and around 32 at around 2800 rpm with the distributor vac disconnected.

get an adjustable distributor vac can and set it to add 6 degrees of advance and plug it into ported vacuum . . fine tune timing from there if needed.

you're done
.
 

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... After removing the module. The white wire can be capped off. The red wire should still have 12v.

Would this be a good source for the electric choke and fuel pump, and what will it do to the charge indicator light?
As the original load on the RED wire (actually the ORG/LT BLU) is only a few amps, I would use it to trigger a small relay for the electric choke and fuel pump. If the switch were new, it would just be able to handle a street fuel pump and choke at about 11 amps. At 35 years old, I'd be nice to it and use a relay.

There would be no effect on the charge light and power to the regulator if the amps were held that low, and certainly not with the relay. It's a good idea in any case, as you can add even more stuff to your system and just make the relay bigger if necessary, and still not place any additional load on your old components. Relays are also cheaper and easier to replace than any ignition switch.
;)
David
 
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