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Discussion Starter #1
These challenges keep getting tougher. I read the description of how to detach the engine in the shop manual.

"Disconnect the converter from the flywheel. Secure the converter assembly in the housing. Remove the remaining(?) flywheel housing to engine bolts. Lower the car, then support the transmission. Remove the converter housing to engine upper bolts. Raise the engine slightly and carefully pull it from the transmission."

I need to wait for the movie!! Disconnect the converter? Where is it? jeez!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Remove the 4 aluminum nuts like the one in your pic. You will have to rotate the crank/flexplate to get to the other 3.
Of the two, which one is the Aluminum one?
 

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The convertor nuts are not aluminum. As for securing the convertor, when you get them apart, I used a piece if 1 and 1/2 angle iron to bolt across the face of the transmission to keep the convertor from falling out. Two reasons for this is #1, it hurts if it falls on your foot. #2 Makes a horrid mess when trans fluid pours on the floor. Good luck! Don
 

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the nut with a stud comming thru it X4.....

the other bolt will drain fluid out of converter....
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The convertor nuts are not aluminum. As for securing the convertor, when you get them apart, I used a piece if 1 and 1/2 angle iron to bolt across the face of the transmission to keep the convertor from falling out. Two reasons for this is #1, it hurts if it falls on your foot. #2 Makes a horrid mess when trans fluid pours on the floor. Good luck! Don
You mean a piece of flat stock that you bolt to the bell housing? When you pull the engine off the converter studs, is that when you slip in in there? or before?

I was able to get my starter off pretty easily. Only held on by two of the three bolts.
 

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Yes, I would bolt it on as soon as you can. The reason I say that is from my experience. You know, " I'll put that on in a minute". Then , BAM, crap all over the floor. LOL! Use the back of the engine you just built to mark the bolt holes. Don
 

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I was 16 or 17 when I pulled the first of many transmissions from my el camino...found out a couple things:

1) th350 is heavy, but I could pull it out on my chest without too much strain
2) if torque converter slides out with transmission on chest, oil leak is right at face level
3) torque converters hold a lot of oil for their size.
4)ATF kills grass. if Mom isnt mad about her dumb kid ruining a bunch of clothes, wait till she looks outside and sees his car 2 feet in the air , in the front yard with a big oil puddle under it.


every time my kids do something that makes me want to scream, gotta remember I deserve it for what I put my parents thru when I was their age and also knew everything :)
 

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I was 16 or 17 when I pulled the first of many transmissions from my el camino...found out a couple things:

1) th350 is heavy, but I could pull it out on my chest without too much strain
2) if torque converter slides out with transmission on chest, oil leak is right at face level
3) torque converters hold a lot of oil for their size.
4)ATF kills grass. if Mom isnt mad about her dumb kid ruining a bunch of clothes, wait till she looks outside and sees his car 2 feet in the air , in the front yard with a big oil puddle under it.


every time my kids do something that makes me want to scream, gotta remember I deserve it for what I put my parents thru when I was their age and also knew everything :)
:D X2 on this experience, but I changed MANY Cast Iron Cruise-O-Matics on my back in my mom's back yard back in the 80's :)

Tom, simply remove the FOUR NUTS and then the bell housing bolts then gently slide the tranny back and off the engine keeping it supported so it don't drop on the ground or your pretty little head :)
 

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Sorry the new guy is resurrecting an old thread!

My 390 is frozen solid, so I am unable to turn the crank to remove the torque converter. I pulled the whole assembly mated together.

I have removed the bell housing bolts and have half heartedly attempted to separate the C6 from the block with TC attached. It doesn’t seem to budge. Is there a trick, or do can I get a little more aggressive and add a little heat?

Thanks
 

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Sorry the new guy is resurrecting an old thread!

My 390 is frozen solid, so I am unable to turn the crank to remove the torque converter. I pulled the whole assembly mated together.

I have removed the bell housing bolts and have half heartedly attempted to separate the C6 from the block with TC attached. It doesn’t seem to budge. Is there a trick, or do can I get a little more aggressive and add a little heat?

Thanks
First make sure you have all the bolts removed, then go over it again. It may be that you need to lift the transmission up to slide it back, it may be there is to much tension between the motor and transmission for it to slide apart. You need to find the sweet spot.
 

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Probably sticking on the dowel pins. I usually drive an old putty knife in between to loosen them up and start the bell housing moving off the pins.
 

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Sorry the new guy is resurrecting an old thread!

My 390 is frozen solid, so I am unable to turn the crank to remove the torque converter. I pulled the whole assembly mated together.

I have removed the bell housing bolts and have half heartedly attempted to separate the C6 from the block with TC attached. It doesn’t seem to budge. Is there a trick, or do can I get a little more aggressive and add a little heat?

Thanks
Pour Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinder spark plug holes and sit over night. Rock the engine back and forth to see if it will turn to get to the other torque converter bolts.
Good Luckl;
 
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