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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyone know how to prolerly setup Pinion angle for a Street/Strip car?

I belive I should be shoting for a -2.5 to a -4 degree setting.. but how do you set this what. what tools do I need.. I have Dbj adjustable uppers and adjustable lowers on a 83 fox body platform..

also I have been told that the setting above should vary between and Automatic car and a Manual

I'm running an Automatic so what should I try first.. I'm more concernec for at the track as the car is not street driven a great deal. so a better angle to reduce 60 foot times is what I'm really looking for.

Thanks
 

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This will probably cause some controversy, but there is absolutely no traction to be gained with pinion angle. You want to set the angle so the U-joints will be in phase at speed. You basically want the same angle on the tranny yoke as the angle on the pinion, except in opposite directions, meaning if the tranny is setting 3 degrees down, you want the pinion 3 degrees up. If you have adjustable uppers, center the rearend in the chassis, set the pinion angle with one of them disconnected, (use a magnetic base angle finder) and then connect the other control arm. Since there is little or no movement with a Mustang style 4 link, 4 degrees sounds like alot to me. Check with the manufacturer of the control arms for suggestions.
 

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Don't want to start anything but changing the pinion angle on my car help the traction/hook A LOT.
Plus had a friend of mine that had a Maverick which we all know work/ transfer weight really well. Thecar ran 7.50's in the 1/8th and would basically hook in a car wash. Well he built a bigger motor and fought traction for 3 months did everything clamps on the springs put caltracs on tried to dial them in for 5 weeks, went back to traction bars, bigger tire, finally i said something to he about changing the pinion angle. Now it leaves wheels up every pass, and runs 6.70's
Plus i check pinion angle different than most people actually most people say it is wrong, but it works.
 

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Pinion angle...nope...doesn't affect TRACTION. What pinion angle does (in an excessive amount) is remove efficiency from the driveline. If everything were in a straight line, 100% of the torque would reach the pinion. But, these things have suspension, so it's not all exactly in line all the time. When the angle between the pinion and driveline gets severe (usually upwards of 10 degrees or more) then the torque is not fully transferred to the pinion...some of it is lost due to driveline angle. I know this first hand. On my Maverick, I can take away some hook by rotating the pinion downwards a few degrees. It ain't a whole lot of change, maybe a couple hundredths in ET at the 60' but it does work....especially on loose, hot track surfaces. I usually drop the pinion to 6 degrees in the summer from zero.

In short, I use it as a fine-tuning aid. Just a 5 minute adjustment that makes a difference...at least on mine anyway.

Now, that said, on a FOX mustang there really isn't a whole lot of movement, just as F15 mentioned. Even less if you have good stiff bushings (poly or aluminum). I use aluminum bushings on my '84 coupe, double adjustable uppers and home-made tube lowers...and my own home-brewed coil overs. My instant center is moved back and up which helps the car pitch rotate with it's TIGHT converter and low torque 302. But, it's very consistent. I run 0 pinion angle. The angle between the trans and driveshaft is 0 at normal ride height, and driveline to rear end is also 0...again at ride height. It changes with suspension movement of course, but the way I have it all set up, it doesn't move a whole lot (got rid of that right rear squatting problem). Just by moving instant center rear and up improved my 60' ETs from 1.67 to 1.52. Last race day (first time I have driven it in over a year....I have a hired driver, but my Maverick was down) it ran best 1.518 and worst 1.527--on 26x9 slicks. Not too shabby for a backyard brewed POS.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: mavman on 3/18/06 10:52am ]</font>
 
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