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Discussion Starter #1
Could someone enlighten me in detail on how you do a shelby drop? i googled it and didnt get much. thanks

67 fairlane
 

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Go here, read all about it, get the template kit, have fun.

David

EDIT: Oops - you have a Fairlane? Call Day Bresnan (find his info at the link above) and see what you need.
 

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I would be interested in what you find out on performing the Shelby drop on a Fairlane. I have a '66 I would like to do this to but haven't been able to find details on the Fairlane. Seems to be plenty of info on the Mustang but nothing concrete on the Fairlane. Some say drop 1" and back 1/8" while other say drop 1" only with no horizontal movement.
 

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The same is true for Mustangs, as the suspension changed for the '67 model year, but for Fairlanes it was a mid-year change when parts ran-out on each sub-model. That's my understanding and why I suggest checking against your installed parts before committing. The primary difference in the geometries can be identified with adjustment method. If your upper control arms are adjusted with shims, it's down and back, and if adjusted with a LCA cams, it's straight (perpendicular to the original bolt line) down. Same for the Mustangs if you see what I mean. Check with the know-it-alls. OpenTracker would be a good source for info and stuff as well.

David
 

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What type of handling improvements will be noticed.

Greg
Greg, the primary improvement is to the tire camber, giving better traction and more predictability even at low speeds for a better feel and performance, and to improved tire wear. The stock suspension is a bit out-of-whack geometrically (partially on-purpose for stability and under-steer), and shows itself as increased positive camber (top of the tire leans out) on cornering, reducing the footprint and increasing the load on the outer edge of the outside tire.

A partial but significant fix is to lower the upper A-arm (control arm) on the inboard side, improving the geometry and bringing the roll center closer to being... better. I say that as the stock system will still be botched, but markedly better. The partial pic below from an article by Dan Kahn for Rod & Custom magazine shows the relative effect of lowering the A-arm. A typical 1" drop will get most of the benefit from typical '60s Fords. A 1-1/2 to 1-3/4" drop will get more, but require a "negative wedge" kit or new A-arms to prevent over-extending the upper ball joint and damaging or breaking it. Any drop mod, or even stock, will benefit from a properly adjusted bump-steer mod to help correct (but not entirely fix) the toe-in and out on suspension travel, also improving handling and predictability. Adding the properly-done mods together gives a noticeable improvement.

Hope that helps,
David

Note the general tire camber improvement during cornering with lowered upper control arms:

 

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Discussion Starter #9
youre speaking a bit of french to me there but i think i am understanding. i will ahve to find out how to do this all before i replace my coils an springs and shocks. anybody know a decent coil and shock to use and/or a site to buy em cheap. i have a set of stock coils and shocks but im not sure i want to use em. thanks
 

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Good condition stock springs are fine for a daily driver. For more spirited driving, there are various popular options, such as progressive-rate springs. There are a number of suppliers, and many of us have had good experiences with ESPO Springs 'n Things at good prices. They have re-done their website, and it's not fully functional, so you may want to call them at 800-903-9019. Others may chime-in with their favorite spring sources.

BTW - before calling or ordering from anywhere, decide what you want your final ride-height to be. The 1" A-arm (UCA/Shelby) drop will physically drop the whole front end .4" and the 1.5" drop will lower the car .6". Some folks report different drop amounts, and that is because it has a lot to do with the final alignment. Some get zero drop, and others an inch or more, depending on how it's adjusted. Anyway, decide the final desired height (measured in a vertical line from the top of the front wheel arch straight-down in-line with the wheel hub) so they can make the best spring recommendations to you.

David
 
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