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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello from a newby. I have searched and do not find a situation exactly like mine. My son and I rebuilt the C4 in his 68 Cougar 302 4V. We don't know much about the history of the transmission as the car was not running when we got it.

Currently the car will not shift automatically at all. If I put it into drive, it engages first but will not shift. If I manually put it into second, it shifts immediately. If I then put it into drive, it will stay in second. It doesn't shift into third. Reverse works fine.

There is vacuum, on the modulator line, and I have tried two modulators. I have checked both modulators with a vacuum gun and they both pull down starting at 10 inches of vacuum. The kick down lever seems to be working fine.

There was a Transgo shift kit already installed in the transmission when we got it. On dis-assembly, I noticed that the point of the anti ballooning bullet had been really beaten down, and rounded off. The only other obvious thing I found was a couple of broken one way clutch springs. These items were all replaced. I checked the clutches with compressed air before assembly and they both operated properly. the valve body cane a part easily, and showed no signs of sticking valves.

Any ideas?
 

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Is the pin installed in front of the modulator?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, I also checked to make sure it was going into the piston...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Wow. I never considered the pin length. I think I have a shorter one. I will give it a try. I just reused the one that came out, but I don't have any history to know if it is right or not. Vacuum has checked good at the mopdulator, but I will recheck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have vacuum and the shorter pin just falls out (too short). I also compared the pin to another C4 and the original one matches.

Now what? Can the governor cause these symptoms?
 

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Put your car on stands - securely. Remove the linkage from the shift lever at the transmission, leaving the lever to shift with. Start the car with the tranny in neutral and let it idle for about 15 minutes in neutral.
Shift it into "D2" drive and wait. It should start in second and stay there until the speed reaches about 20 mph. At that point it should shift into high gear. Put the car into D1 and it should start in low, shift immediatly into second. You should be able to SLOWLY increase the throttle and it should shift into third gear before you hit 30 mph.
1968 was a "Select-o-matic" or cruis-o-matic C4. It has been a long time since I have worked with one of these and I am unsure if the TransGo kit changes the pattern - but I seem to remember that the second gear start in D2 was part of the way the tranny worked. If it does work this way then it is supposed to work like that. D1 (green dot) was for normal driving and would start in low shift to second and then shift into drive at about 20 -25 mph. D2 was supposed to be for snow - starting in second and then shifting to high. I don't remember if there is a "manual" low gear shift slot - my memory seems to recall a 2, d1, D2, N, R, Park. Maybe some others can remember better than I. maybe they have documentation on the older trannys - prior to 1970 the select-o-matic or Cruis-o-matic was the only pattern you could get.
Paul
 

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Paul, the 1,D2,D3,R,P valve body you are refering to is the 64-66 or "green dot". 1967 and up had the standard 1,2,D,R,P shift.
 

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OKEY DOKEY!
Wasn't it 1, D1, D2,N,R,P?
Of course! I knew that.... I just had to remember what the TransGo shift kits covered. Sorry for the brain drain, I am feeling old today, I have had three or four things like that happening to me all week!
I am going to go to a corner now and sulk for a while.

Lets see, manual 1 and 2 work. Reverse works. Drive engages 1 but won't shift. 1-2 manual shift works. No auto shifting and no 2-3 shift. It doesn't lock up or go into neutral when it should be in a gear.

It still might be a good idea to get the vehicle up on blocks and run it through the gears with the linkage disconnected. It might be a minor misalignment in the linkage. Don't let the tranny go any faster than 40mph when it is on stands.
When you checked the vacuum did you check it at the engine or at the modulator? when running it on stands connect a vacuum gauge with a "T" at the modulator and watch it. There should be no hesitation in vacuum changes and it should be at or near 17 to 21 inches unless the engine has been modified - with an aftermarket cam it might be lower but always above 10. You don't by chance have a turbocharger on this engine do you? A turbo will make it go all the way to governed speed before shifting just like if the modulator was disconnected or if the pin is too long or jammed at the back of the spool.
I think that with these ideas I am out of good ones barring internal problems. Let us know if you find anything new.
 

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Wasn't it 1, D1, D2,N,R,P?

Hey cheer up Paul,you got it here ..That's the way they go.D1 gives 1,2,3 and D2 starts in 2 and shifts to 3.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I did verify vacuum at the end of the vacuum line at the modulator. The T is a very good idea and I will try that today. I just want to see the vacuum levels at the modulator, with the modulator connected. I will put it on stands, but it does sound scary to me...

No turbos (lust lust lust) and the cam sounds pretty close to stock. I did see 17 inches of vacuum at idle even.

I just thought of a dumb ass thing that I may have done... Anybody ever put the piston in the modulator valve backwards? Will it even fit that way. It seems that most of my problems are usually ESO errors. (Equipment Superior to Operator). Never rule out stupidity.

I picked up a C4 that is supposed to be a working tranny yesterday, so it will provide a reference for me. When I get this thing done, I am going to end up with a couple of spare '67 A servos C4's available for sale. One is complete but has a broken apply strut, and the other is supposed to be operable. I am in the Phoenix area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Oh yeah, to verify, it is 1,2,D,N,R,P.

Linkage might be an issue, but it does seem to do the right things in the right places, except for the above mentioned problems. I will study the linkage adjustment routine in the shop manual to verify.
 

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You could put the valve in bassakwards but you would not be able to install the modulator.
At this stage of the game I would suspect the governor is the culprit.
This can be had by removing the extension housing.
The governor is held in place with 4 small bolts.
There are 2 small valves inside.
Don't worry about anything "getting you" once it has been removed.
The valves only fit one way and the governor only bolts on one way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Another victory for dumb assedness. As amazing as it may seem, you can put the piston in backwards. As a matter of fact, the pin actually fits better in the wrong end of the piston. Which is why I put it in that way to begin with. It is a beach to get out when inserted backwards.

After bringing the fluid back up to level, It immediately shifted from first to second automatically. At first it did not want to engage third. After a lap around the block it started shifting all gears just fine.

I would like to thank the folks that posted here to help, and I will remain in the background to avoid giving too much bad advice.
 

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Okee dokee. I learned a new one.
Glad you got it working anyway.
 

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I am glad that it was that simple. (it is never easy)
Take the best of those two trannys and keep it for a spare. If your tranny starts acting wierd you can build your spare and swap them out - never having the car down is a good thing!
Paul
 

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Can anyone tell me why I'm not getting any gears fresh rebuilt c4 ran oil through got to temp triple checked everything shifter if adjusted right. The shifter arm with the lock washer and nut is the issue I think anything would help
 

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Bb1995.

Three issues here.

First, you have resurrected a thread that has been dead for FOURTEEN years without adding anything to the subject of the thread. A big no-no.

Second, to get the quickest and best answers ALWAYS start a new thread. Hijacking an existing thread is very likely for you to be ignored.

And, third, your post makes no sense. Ignoring proper punctution makes your post impossible to decipher. As posted I don't think anyone can figure out your issue.
 
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