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so i was just reading the "Roller cam for 460" thread and i saw where 89 coupe stated that fords original intent with teh shock towers was for FWD cars.....
so does that mean that my RWD car doesn't really need them? if so ... how can i eliminate them yet still have a stable front end? it seems to me like they (the shock towers) might help "streghten" then front end a bit?
 

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You can shave them a little, but they need to be there. Unless you go to some sort of Mustang II front end.

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1964 Comet 289 C4 daily driver
TFS TW, Weiand Stealth, Comp XE268, Rhodes lifters, TFS roller rockers, Carter 625 AFB, Hooker SuperComps
"These go to 11." -This is Spinal Tap

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dragman64 on 3/8/02 1:39am ]</font>
 

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If you really want to get rid of them, it will cost you. I dont think it would be cheap. You can look into TCP`s coil over set up, again not cheap, but I am pretty sure it is bolt in, and im pretty the mustang II stuff has to be welded in.
 

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$2400 for the Rod & Custom front that I put under my Fairlane, should be able to tell you in a few months how I like it. I can tell you already that it sure makes things nicer to work on and it looks better then the factory shock towers. I couldn't find any headers that would work so had to make my own.
 

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No that is for the pieces, you install it yourself. My brother and I tore it down and put crossmember in place then I had a local welder come to weld the crossmember in, we didn't trust ourselves for that part of it. You run a string from ball joint to ball joint to find your center, then start cutting. It is quite an involved procedure. We welded the sway bar mounts, and my brother and I did everything else. We modified the brake bracket, the booster now sits very close to the inner fender. It doesn't put a 460 very far back though and really gets crowded up front for Radiator clearence. You are limited how far back you can go because of oil pan and steering rack. If I was to do it over again I would not go with power steering. The instructions could be a little better, they seem to assume that most of us do this type of thing everyday. They were always very helpful whenever I called with questions. I bought the stage 2 version. Be aware also that there are no headers for this combo, they recommend FPA, but they didn't fit. Stan at FPA was very helpful as well and he sent me 2 different types to try. I also tried several different sets from Summit and Jegs before making them myself. Only major problem so far is a very small leak from oil pan at rear and you have to pull motor out to fix. We decided that it can leak until next winter, I have to get this thing out of the garage for a little while to keep the wife off my ass. I went this route because my front suspension was shot and the steering leaked all over. I figured to rebuild the stock setup would be almost as expensive as the R&C and would still be loose. Time will tell I guess.
 

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The R&C kit is a breeze to install & rocks. We did a 65 Falcon last year with a mini mig, a tape measure & a level. The car drives like a dream at 120! They put a lot of R&D into the kit & if you can run without factory suspension, I'd do it in a flash!
 
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