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Discussion Starter #1
Man I am having some serious sticker shock from when I bought my first set of rocker arms several years ago.

There are too many choices. I am looking at;

Comp ultra pro magnums(moly steel) for $329
Comp ultra gold aluminum for just over $300
Trick Flow aluminum for $269.95

I will need 1.6 ratio 3/8ths stud. I don't think the die cast rockers would be strong enough for what I'm doing.

Any thoughts, experiences are welcome.
 

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Wow, But i didnt think of any of those mfgs mentioned when i saw the thread These came to mind tho, but i understand the sticker shock.... :eek:
 

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I've used Sig Erson roller rockers for years without issue, and don't know anyone else that has either. Nothing special - just good rockers. Erson was absorbed as a separate company under the EPW/PBM Performance Parts flag a couple years ago, but their prices have remained relatively the same. Still made here in Nevada AFAIK. Might consider those.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
So add Harland Sharp and Sig Erson to the list? I have a Sig Erson cam for my 351 Cleveland but the rollers are Cranes. I stayed away from any of the roller rockers that are in the $400 ish range because I don't think my little engine needs something that radical.

I have read about some of these rockers interfering with head bolts or in my case I have studs. Another issue is making sure the rockers have enough clearance for my spring od's. The last thing I've read about is people having to go to taller profile valve covers. I'm hoping that my aluminum, black wrinkle painted valve covers will still work. Pretty sure they are standard height.

Harland Sharp
original - $304
Heavy duty - $357
Diamond - $371
they don't specify to what level engine these rockers are good for

Sig Erson
standard - $219(street, hydraulic, mild cam) probably should not get those
exteme duty - $274(solid cams, higher lift, clear larger od valve springs)

Good grief. Now I have more choices. I looked at the Comps because I've been running an older design Comp rocker and they have worked fine.

I don't know how I got put in FM video. I don't think I did that. It should have been in the all Ford tech. Can somebody on here move my post up there?
 

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I've had experience with the 1.6 ratio Comp Golds on the AFR's which should offer similar spacing as your stock heads. They did fit under the 66' and newer type aftermarket chrome valve covers (although I had to mess with the shields over the oil fill and PVC valve a little) when I was running .650 lift. Spring clearance was good with standard retainers-my springs are 1.57OD and stacked at 1.875. The Comps also cleared the same spring setup well later with .714 valve lift. For that case I happened to be using the Pro Comp aftermarket alumium valve covers that look similar to OEM-they are know to be a little taller than OEM. Never an issue with the head bolts. Both examples used the appopriate length pushrod for the application which kept the sweep on the valve narrow and near the center.
 

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If your shopping for new rockers anyway might be a good time to step up to 7/16ths studs...Another thing to consider is how heavy the rockers are.
 

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Think I remember the time Harland was the ONLY ones making roller rockers for Fords, with out having a "special" order from the 'normal' sources. And even back then they were pricey for the times. But looks like they can be had for a more "normal-sane" price comparatively speaking of course. (ie ford/chev parts)

There was another mfg at the time (oldie company) but cant remember for the life of me who it was... Clay Smith maybe? To many 12 oz curls between then and now I guess.... lol

Yes I was doing Fords when Fords werent cool. And doing the '51W to boot.... ;)
 

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What rockers somewhat depends on spring pressure. High pressure best to go with premium rockers.
I used Scorpion rockers on my 460 250 a set last year. Checked for lift as advertized for a 1.73 rocker and it was right on. First C motors I built back in the early 70s and rockers were BBC badged as Ford. Had a lot of issues had to order quite a bit of extra lift in the cam to over come geometry issus and reduced ratios. Sometimes even needed longer valve tips or use of lash caps to help improve rocker travel issues and pushrods hitting the heads. Some times required a bit of grinding the pushrod hole.

I beleve the fms might be correct geometry also.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I don't see any particular spring spec's in the rocker information but I'm running 132 pounds on the seat and 322 pounds per inch dual springs with a damper. These are not as serious as what you might find in a roller cam but still healthier than stock. That is why I'm looking at the middle of the road rockers. No reason for me to spend of $400+ for a set if I don't really need them.

I've run an old design Comp pro magnum rocker on 3 different sets of heads and they have performed well but they have been re-designed now and I know nothing about the new ones. They would probably work fine. The new Comp pro magnums are said to be lighter than most of the aluminum rockers.

The other thing, with my set up, I didn't see the need for 7/16th's studs although I don't suppose there is any harm in upgrading. My understanding is that the threads in the heads are the same for 3/8 or 7/16.

I have Manley guide plates which, now that I look at guide plates, mine look a bit strange. They are flat with 1 hole elongated like below. Are those Chevy parts or something? They have worked fine at any rate so I plan to re-use these.


I guess unless anybody can describe a bad experience for me I will get a set of the Comp ultra pro magnums.
 

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What heads are you running. I never do 3/8 rocker studs as later upgrades would then require studs and rockers. Last i looked prices were the same or real close.

SLoted hole in plate is th help centering of the pushrod.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
My heads are heavily ported(especially now) iron Windsor Jr's with Manley pro flo valves. The angle mill is done and I have to go pick them up. They cut .060 off which should bring my compression up to where my cam has always expected which is around 10.5:1. They said they have everything done straight and true for the angle cut. I'm hoping for good things out of all this work. A little less valve angle will help, my porting should definitely help and the increase in compression will definitely help. The big question is how much. My last series of runs earlier this year was in the 12.20's. The car ran 11.72 best with the interior gutted but I have added a significant amount of weight with convert torque boxes, full interior back in and sub frame connetors. My valve springs got tired and it was falling over on the top end which is what started all this head work. It would be nice to be back into the 11.70's. I'm switching to a bunch of fiberglass body parts like bumpers, hood and deck lid to see if I might balance the weight out. I might pull one of the 2 batteries I have in the trunk also.

My guide plates seemed odd because all the new ones I see are smaller and the actual guides are above the plate so they are 2 dimensional or 2 step types. Mine have worked for several years though. Is there any particular advantage in these compared to the Manley ones I have;




I need new studs and new roller rockers so going to 7/16th's would not be any extra cost. They appear to cost about the same. 3/8ths would probably still work fine since that is what I've been running for years but sometimes you can't see what the difference in stud size is doing to your valve train.

That was the Trick Flow rockers I was looking at. They concerned me because they almost seem to be too cheap compared to the other rocker prices. I like the looks of those Comp ultra pro magnums though. Chrome moly, lighter than aluminum and they have a smaller profile to boot which should prevent interference problems.

I'm running .560 lift and all the roller rockers I've looked at that are above cast level should handle my lift and spring sizes with no problem.

Sorry I am asking so many questions on this. Screwing something up in the valve train is something I really need to avoid.

Depending on the amount of degrees the shop cut I may or may not need new push rods. That will just have to be checked but if I do its no problem.
 

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Well ive always heard that even stock stuff will handle up to about .560 lift, but i know its a little different with being roller vs flat tappet..... but the rollers are damn good well spent money anyways....

WAAAAYYYY back in the day I one time did a HUGE cam (for the time, early early 80's) and on a 51 W to bbot, back when they werent cool either. It was a General Kinetics (remember that brand anyone) Solid flat tappet, with .566 lift 308 adv duration 104 overlap... (cam card tossed as was MY norm, straight up baby didnt know how didnt care to learn degree, sides back then it still wasnt done on a regular basis) That said it made NO vacuum, had NO quit at top, and wouldnt idle less than 1200 rpm sounding like it was gonna die.... all with "rigged" non adjustable factory hydro cast rockers... had to set lash every ohhh @ least once a week, most of the times two for it to stay running decent... ahhh the good ole days..(kinda lol) True story, and a bit of nostalgia is all.

Sorry where were we? lol ;)
 

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Is there any particular advantage in these compared to the Manley ones I have;
The closer to the top of the pushrod, the greater the consistency in tip centering - for the same size slot. If you have good tip centering now, then use what you have. The only way to know if they would be better is to buy them and try them, as a tiny increase in slot width will lose the advantage. Again, not a biggie.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered the 7/16ths studs. It is at the least, goodness and at the best, improvement in the consistency of my valve train.

Its progress. Baby step but progress at least. I have the cash to have the heads done and buy my rockers. Still need to order the second head gasket. My heads called for a 1011-2 which has the copper ring. Felpro is a bit proud of those at $35 each. Require re-torque after initial run in just to be sure. I always re-torque anyway.

Got the itch bad. Want to see my bebeh running again.
 

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Man I am having some serious sticker shock from when I bought my first set of rocker arms several years ago.

There are too many choices. I am looking at;

Comp ultra pro magnums(moly steel) for $329
Comp ultra gold aluminum for just over $300
Trick Flow aluminum for $269.95

I will need 1.6 ratio 3/8ths stud. I don't think the die cast rockers would be strong enough for what I'm doing.

oops should have read further down the page before posting.

Any thoughts, experiences are welcome.
Try the Scorpion Roller Rocker. Purchased a set for my sons race car and they are nice and priced right too. His springs call for around 600 open and no problems thus far. Made in America too. We use a stud girdle also.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/scc-scp1018bl/overview/make/ford
 
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