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Discussion Starter #1
So, I've got this beautiful 65 mustang with a 200 6 3 speed stick. I have the opportunity to buy a 65 V8 289 ready to drop in and go. How big of a project is this? What parts will I need for the conversion? Will the trans and driveshaft work, or do I need V8-specific ones? I wouldn't mind going to an automatic.

I would really appreciate some help from guys who have done this before themselves.
Thanks in advance!
 

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It is a prettty easy swap. You will need a set of V8 engine mounts and frame brackets. The trans bell housing is different and so is the starter between the 6 and 8 cyl. If you go auto it will depend on which one you use, C4 C6 or OD. The exhaust system will be totally different so figure on an all new exhaust. The accel pedal linkage is different so you will need the V8 and so will be the clutch linkage. Pulleys and brackets are different so get the V8.

When I do one of these swaps I change the steering to the V8 steering linakge and 5 lug wheels. I also replace the rear end with a 8" and upgrade the cooling system. These changes are not needed if you plan on driving it easy but usually these things are wore out and need replacing anyway and might as well change over to V8. Same thing goes for the front springs.
 

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I have 351 insulators and V8 Frame mounts will hook you up with, PM me with your zip and email if interested, other stuff too, drive shaft etc.
 

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Also different radiator, engine to frame mounts, trans crossmember is the same. Current front springs and sway bar will work as the V-8s had pretty much the same stuff, unless you had a HiPo.
If you do the 8" rearend it will be a 5 lug so might as well do both ends, and good time for disc in the front and dual master cylinder.
Drive shaft is different too.
Auto will be easier, due to no clutch linkage to mess with and you can get a shifter from about anywhere.
It's actually really easy when you look at some of the swaps people try. Besides you can use all Ford parts or from others Stangs.
 

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I am switching SB to BB, so I have springs, frame mounts, insulators, drive shaft etc.
Also different radiator, engine to frame mounts, trans crossmember is the same. Current front springs and sway bar will work as the V-8s had pretty much the same stuff, unless you had a HiPo.
If you do the 8" rearend it will be a 5 lug so might as well do both ends, and good time for disc in the front and dual master cylinder.
Drive shaft is different too.
Auto will be easier, due to no clutch linkage to mess with and you can get a shifter from about anywhere.
It's actually really easy when you look at some of the swaps people try. Besides you can use all Ford parts or from others Stangs.
 

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This subject confuses me. I have heard so many different things as to what is necessary that I just don't know. Sometimes it seems within reach and sometimes it seems so far beyond what I can afford to do.

These are the two extremes: one is that you need engine mounts, to upgrade the suspension, upgrade the brakes, new rear end, wheels and tires to accommodate the switch from four lug to five lug, a different radiator, a bigger and better fan.

The other extreme, from a guy TODAY who owns and operates a shop nearby that services and restores classic cars: engine mounts. That's it. (Because I already have a dual exhaust system). According to this entirely reasonable sounding fellow, who wasn't pushy at all about this and is happy to do whatever I need if I proceed with the straight six rebuild, I can drop a 289 in, and as long as I don't "drag race" or beat the **** out of it, I can drive the car no problem until I get around to replacing the rear end.

SO WHICH IS IT?

(please say the second one - I'm tired of pretending to want to swap a straight six for another straight six)
 

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The best answer would be just do the swap and learn the hard way then you will be the expert.
 

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Yes, you can absolutely drop a V8 in place of your six, and not change much other than the eng mounts. Maybe even get away with not changing the radiator if the hose are on the correct corners.
However your talking a bone stock 289/302, and not driving it hard. The front will sit low because of the weaker springs, the suspension will be mush, front and back, it wont stop as well due to weight and ballance.
It will get your rolling, and if your conservative you can drive it while you add on.
The back side, not down, is your doing this why? To increase performance and have some fun? So, your in that age old conundrum, what do you upgrade first. A strong eng, that you can really enjoy because it will eat your driveline, or run hot because you scrimped on the cooling.
Its really not that much work or cost unless your just ordering all new from a catalog. You go to swap meets and get what you need from dudes like me, who have this stuff laying around. The eng and drive line are co existent fundamental elements of these cars. Do it right and enjoy it.
This subject confuses me. I have heard so many different things as to what is necessary that I just don't know. Sometimes it seems within reach and sometimes it seems so far beyond what I can afford to do.

These are the two extremes: one is that you need engine mounts, to upgrade the suspension, upgrade the brakes, new rear end, wheels and tires to accommodate the switch from four lug to five lug, a different radiator, a bigger and better fan.

The other extreme, from a guy TODAY who owns and operates a shop nearby that services and restores classic cars: engine mounts. That's it. (Because I already have a dual exhaust system). According to this entirely reasonable sounding fellow, who wasn't pushy at all about this and is happy to do whatever I need if I proceed with the straight six rebuild, I can drop a 289 in, and as long as I don't "drag race" or beat the **** out of it, I can drive the car no problem until I get around to replacing the rear end.

SO WHICH IS IT?

(please say the second one - I'm tired of pretending to want to swap a straight six for another straight six)
 

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Yes, you can absolutely drop a V8 in place of your six, and not change much other than the eng mounts. Maybe even get away with not changing the radiator if the hose are on the correct corners.
However your talking a bone stock 289/302, and not driving it hard. The front will sit low because of the weaker springs, the suspension will be mush, front and back, it wont stop as well due to weight and ballance.
It will get your rolling, and if your conservative you can drive it while you add on.
The back side, not down, is your doing this why? To increase performance and have some fun? So, your in that age old conundrum, what do you upgrade first. A strong eng, that you can really enjoy because it will eat your driveline, or run hot because you scrimped on the cooling.
Its really not that much work or cost unless your just ordering all new from a catalog. You go to swap meets and get what you need from dudes like me, who have this stuff laying around. The eng and drive line are co existent fundamental elements of these cars. Do it right and enjoy it.
Ditto
do it right or do it again?
 

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This subject confuses me. I have heard so many different things as to what is necessary that I just don't know. Sometimes it seems within reach and sometimes it seems so far beyond what I can afford to do.

These are the two extremes: one is that you need engine mounts, to upgrade the suspension, upgrade the brakes, new rear end, wheels and tires to accommodate the switch from four lug to five lug, a different radiator, a bigger and better fan.

The other extreme, from a guy TODAY who owns and operates a shop nearby that services and restores classic cars: engine mounts. That's it. (Because I already have a dual exhaust system). According to this entirely reasonable sounding fellow, who wasn't pushy at all about this and is happy to do whatever I need if I proceed with the straight six rebuild, I can drop a 289 in, and as long as I don't "drag race" or beat the **** out of it, I can drive the car no problem until I get around to replacing the rear end.

SO WHICH IS IT?

(please say the second one - I'm tired of pretending to want to swap a straight six for another straight six)
If you are on a budget and not too mechanically inclined and you just want a fun cruising car why not just build up the six banger, there are performance parts for the six cylinder out there, that will save you dollars on suspension upgrades and new wheels for 5 lug drums which will give you more cash for paiint & interior work plus a little better gas mileage. Just a thought.
 

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One other thing, aside from the Six BAnger build? I have heard building a modified or perf six is really expensive? Dont know, just what I heard, not saying its a bad idea.

But back to the conversion, one of the things I enjoy the absolute most, is the scrounging for parts either on line, in a junk yard, cross referencing auto parts stores, and coming on here to find out how to make things work. It can be pricey, depends on how far you want to go.

You already have me as a resource, I have the drive shaft, mounts etc. That is the fun of this, do it. Sixs are cool, i have seen some fast ones. But sitting at a light, no one really goes ooooh aaaaaah over four lug mags and the buzz of a six banger. Not trying offend anyone, but just my opinion. Heck, buy a Fox 5.0, rob the eng and driveline.
 

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Take your time collect the parts and get it swapped over, if you shop around on ebay and craigslist and on here you will save a lot of money, I bought my complete front end parts from a guy off craigslist for $700....just have to do the research, I know the steering linkage is different, the I6 stuff won't clear the oil pan on a V-8...at the very least convert everything on the front to V-8 stuff then do the rear end down the road as money permits....

 

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I got a whole box of control arms, ball joints, spring perches etc I didnt use. Stock stuff, but still new. for 67- 72 Must, Mav etc.
 

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I got a whole box of control arms, ball joints, spring perches etc I didnt use. Stock stuff, but still new. for 67- 72 Must, Mav etc.
I could use a 3 spd manual shifter. I have a "Mr. Gasket" in the 70 Mav and it does require some "skill" to make it work.
The big thing with the V-8 over the 6cyl power train is torque. The trans had 1 more clutch pack and the 3 spds were the same. 8" rear in the V-8 to handle the TQ.
The heavier engine trans came with bigger brakes. Not much just more braking due to weight. The cooling system on both sucked you now is a good time to make it better.
 

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The old "mystery shifter". Had one of those in a 68 6cyl, if you found a gear when shifting, it was a complete mystery how you did it. PFM.
 
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