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Discussion Starter #1
I traded the Streetmaster 390 intake for an Edelbrock F427 dual plane intake. I was watching the local craigslist (Grand Rapids, Mi) for FE intakes and saw a "Wanted" add for a streetmaster 390. The guy originally had an Weiand Stealth intake but I am pretty sure that was also a single plane (split plenum at the carb seat, but open to all the runners below that) and I told him I wanted specifically a dual plane for a trade; then a few weeks later he called me again and said he had an F427 dual plane he would trade me straight up for the streetmaster, it was dirty and I just had it media blasted last week.
It looks perfect, no cracks no stripped threads and is already port matched!
I paid $160 on ebay for the Streetmaster back in 2008 and spent $50 on media blasting the intake and water neck so I figure I made out pretty well.

Everything I have read places the F427 intake on par with the Performer RPM intakes that are currently made (please correct me if I'm wrong). instead of paying $370 for a new RPM intake. They look very similar, the intake plenum by the carb looks a little different.

I'm excited to get it on the engine and see if it doesn't wake this heavy turd up a little bit...

My wife and I had our first baby, a girl, on January 15th so I hate to say it, but I'm probably going to have to sell the Galaxie... :(
 

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The F427 isnt a bad street intake, but its not known as a power maker and nowhere near the RPM or Streetmaster potential

Typically an F427 is down about 20 hp and 10 ft lb on a 400 hp FE when compared to a Streetmaster or RPM which are pretty close.

If you port match the F427 you can gain 10 hp and most of the torque back to end up about 10 hp shy of a Streetmaster or RPM

Not a bad manifold, but not as good as some.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Well considering that a fully laiden Galaxie Fastback is about 4000+ lbs I figured I couldn't loose anything switching from the single plane to the dual plane.

Now that the top of the engine is all back together and running I gotta play with the timing curve and carb because its STILL a turd out of the hole. Even with a TCI Breakaway (2400-2800 rpm) converter. I still cannot lite up the tires from a dead stop and was certain that an intake swap to a dual plane would at a minimum obtain that.
So disappointing...

At very light throttle it stumbles a little bit at about 1500 rpms while rolling away from a stop sign. I figured it was a timing issue and I have spent hours changing the springs out of the distributor and adjusting how much vac advance it had but it doesn't seem to go away completely.

I rebuilt the Edelbrock 1407 carb a couple of years ago with all new gaskets Acc pump plungers and re-jetted it based on the recommendations given to me by the Technical Support rep I spoke with. I know I should have gone with a 600 cfm carb (probably a Holley), but I was trying to make HP on a budget. If I had everything to do over I would have definitely done things differently!

I also have a really bad exhaust gasket leak on the drivers side (I pulled the heads off just to make sure everything in the bores was ok). The header bolts on the drivers side are such a PITA to put in and take out its like a 2 hr job, whereas the pass side I can have done in 15 minutes.

I need some advice on where to go from here because I really need to try and sell the car, and I am SURE no one in their right mind would buy it in the condition that it is running right now...
 

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What is your current timing curve?

I'd like to see 12-14 initial, and 36-38 total all in by no later than 2800, then ported vacuum on top of it.

BTW, one technique, treat vacuum advance like it isnt there for a while. Unhook and plug the line,g et your curve right, vac advance shouldnt be there to help that little stumble, its there for low load power and mileage

In addition, make sure your accelerator pump starts immediately and has a decent pump shot.

Your intake wouldn't help burnouts, that Streetmaster had small enough runners that it would have smoked the tires, something else is wrong.

Good thing you didn't get the Stealth, on an FE its a remake of possibly the worst intake Weiand ever made, unlike the 460s and 302s that had a nice dual plane Stealth, the FE was a flat junky no power signleplane that did nothing well.

As far as the header gaskets, here is a technique. Get a bunch of different wrenches and 1/4 drive socket and extension. Replace the gaskets and put antiseize on all the bolts for a lube. Start every bolt a few threads, no cheating, do them all. Bring them down to where they just snug, then tighten them evenly and in steps with your collection of wrenches.

When you are done, fire up the motor and let it idle for a while, go back with globes on and retighten them all while hot. They'll be good after that

The only thing that could be a gotcha is if you have a header / head mismatch, I can tell you that if you post header part number and head casting number. If that is the case, you'll never get them to seal forever

Finally, what gear and what cam in the car?
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
What is your current timing curve?

I'd like to see 12-14 initial, and 36-38 total all in by no later than 2800, then ported vacuum on top of it.

BTW, one technique, treat vacuum advance like it isnt there for a while. Unhook and plug the line,g et your curve right, vac advance shouldnt be there to help that little stumble, its there for low load power and mileage

In addition, make sure your accelerator pump starts immediately and has a decent pump shot.

Your intake wouldn't help burnouts, that Streetmaster had small enough runners that it would have smoked the tires, something else is wrong.

Good thing you didn't get the Stealth, on an FE its a remake of possibly the worst intake Weiand ever made, unlike the 460s and 302s that had a nice dual plane Stealth, the FE was a flat junky no power signleplane that did nothing well.

As far as the header gaskets, here is a technique. Get a bunch of different wrenches and 1/4 drive socket and extension. Replace the gaskets and put antiseize on all the bolts for a lube. Start every bolt a few threads, no cheating, do them all. Bring them down to where they just snug, then tighten them evenly and in steps with your collection of wrenches.

When you are done, fire up the motor and let it idle for a while, go back with globes on and retighten them all while hot. They'll be good after that

The only thing that could be a gotcha is if you have a header / head mismatch, I can tell you that if you post header part number and head casting number. If that is the case, you'll never get them to seal forever

Finally, what gear and what cam in the car?

I did actually drive the car for a year or two with only the mechanical advance and it seemed very responsive, but I figured i would try to hook it up again to see if it would help. I don't have a timing light so it's been difficult to get the timing adjusted just right. I know that is something I am probably going to have to buy just to get the stupid timing set on this engine.
Last time I checked the timing it was 14* BTDC and I think it was about 34* total. It could also be the accelerator pump linkage placement. That will be the next thing that I play with.

I rebuilt a 3.50 traction loc a few years ago and I am running 255-60 R15 tires.

Cam is a lunati 62002 (new part number is 10330702) found here:

Voodoo Hyd Cam - Ford 352-428FE 262/268 - Lunati Power

So another question would be do i set my total advance using the initial plus whatever mechanical advance I have and then use the vacuum on top of it? The range of vacuum advance is adjustable on this distributor...

THANKS!
 

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Set your total at 36-38 degrees, let initial fall where it may. Then make sure it starts when hot and doesn't ping. Then I'd add 10 degrees more of ported vacuum advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The heads are C8AE-H castings one has a 25 on it to the left of the regular casting number, and the other one has a 78. I have no idea what those numbers mean, what kind of car they came out of an if they are any good or not. I was told they came out of a Mustang with a 4v 390 in it, whether that is true or not I have no idea. I bought em off ebay in about 2008 completely rebuilt with new springs good for .600" lift, chromoly retainers and locks, new bronze valve guides and stainless valves with undercut stems and 3 angle valve job. Paid $750 for em shipped to my door. The local engine shop wanted $550 for the original rebuilt 2v 390 heads so I figured the ebay ones were a good buy. I wasn't going to dump $1600 on a set of edelbrock heads. I wish I had now.

Headers are the Hooker Super Competition Headers

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hok-6130hkr/overview/year/1968/make/ford/model/galaxie-500

I finally went to advance thats a 1/2 mile down the road and caughed up $40 for the basic actron timing light.

So I set my timing at 14* initial, with 24* mechanical advance. And adjusted the vacuum advance till i thought it was about 10* or somewhere in that neighborhoood. I still have the vac advance hooked up so I guess the next thing I do is disconnect it and plug it off.

I took it for a drive and it definitely is better, but it still falls on its face for a second when I floor it at cruising speed, so I am now thinking that its a fuel issue. It pulls good though, it feels stronger than it did with that streetmaster on it. I put about 10 gallons of fresh 93 octane gas in it and I think its already starting to run better. Most of the gas in the tank is probably 2 years old and the last time I filled it up i think I put regular unleaded in it... not a great idea.

So I guess, for the sake of just selling it I am not going to invest in a different carb or ignition components so I guess just playing with it and trying to improve its current performance is about the best I am going to be able to do at this point...

Thanks for the advice!
 
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