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Is this for a race car? I'm sure somebody makes them but if you can fab your own that would be cool.

I use stock mounts along with a strap. You can see it here on the bottom left side. I had a friend weld a couple of tabs on the frame and I used an aluminum turn-buckle with large bolts attaching it to the frame and cylinder head. Even though the engine has the rubber mounts for some help from vibration it's pretty secure with this and cannot move around.


I probably have $5.00 invested in this deal.

John
 

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I still prefer fully captured isolated mounts for all but the most ornery drag-only cars. That said, it's simple to take the stock mounts, cut or burn the rubber out, and fill the gap with rectangle stock or box-in with strips. Free to $5 at the hardware store, and no extra stuff to attach. Just bolt 'em back in.

David

PS: Whether solid or isolated engine mounts, never solid mount the tranny tailshaft.
 

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Drill a hole through the mount and put a grade 8 bolt through it.
 

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Drill a hole through the mount and put a grade 8 bolt through it.
That makes a good captured (not solid) mount - just be aware you must use a counter-sunk head bolt. Sometimes a pain to find in good grades.

David

Well-stocked hardware stores and aviation suppliers carry quality counter-sunk bolts with a variety of tool slots and sockets. This one is generic hex:

 

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Discussion Starter #8
I just drove a car with solid mounts. I think I'll go with a strap. Pretty shakey. A lot of things are coming loose on this car from vibration. Lol. I've broken 2 sets of mounts so far so I was getting frustrated.
 

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I was pulling the rubber apart on my motor mounts. After it happened twice to 2 new sets of mounts I took the third new set with the brackets to a shop and had them drill some 5/8ths holes through the whole thing bolted together. I put a couple grade 8 bolts through, snugged them down with just a bit of play and then loctited the nuts. When I'm drag racing I also put the turn buckle on the driver side.

After that it started pulling the spot welds loose on the engine compartment side of the shock towers. I had to pull my engine, hammer them back straight and weld all the way around all those separate pieces that are sandwiched together. Ground the welds down smooth and re-painted. It was a pain but had to be done. I didn't want to get that whole strap kit. It has held up now for a few years with no problems.

Next it started to twist up bad enough that the driver side door would clunk and not want to shut for a day or 2 after I drag raced. Had to install subframe connectors and I went ahead and got the convertible torque boxes too. I think everything is fixed now except the cigarette lighter. It flings it out of the dash when I launch and I have to go fish around in the back or under the seat later to find it. Unlike someone on here though, my glove box door does not pop open when I run(so far).
 

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Solid mounts suck for both you and the ca. Yeah, that's why I still prefer captured isolated mounts for almost everything but tube-frame cars. Because they are captured, the rubber won't usually break - and even if it did, the engine is going nowhere. There is also no hard shock through torque straps, chains, cables, bars, etc. to the chassis. I prefer the later Ford style (pics below) as a bolt-in when I can, with '73-'74 Torino/Ranchero and '79-'93 Mustang convertible versions being popular choices with through-bolt instead of ears. Or, there are all kinds of partial or fully-built versions out there, such as these and these along with a bucket full of others as already mentioned.

David

With mount ears:


With stud mount. The 'vert mounts are a bit lower for hood clearance. Both styles are available from Anchor for under $20:
 

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With stud mount. The 'vert mounts are a bit lower for hood clearance. Both styles are available from Anchor for under $20:

Sweet find David--exactly what I have been looking for. :tup:

About $8.50 each from Rock Auto if purchased as a shelf item without the Anchor box. I ordered a pair and I'll later report back if they can be made to work with my 65' Mustang.

I'll also do a photo comparison with a stock mount.
 

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I was pulling the rubber apart on my motor mounts. After it happened twice to 2 new sets of mounts I took the third new set with the brackets to a shop and had them drill some 5/8ths holes through the whole thing bolted together. I put a couple grade 8 bolts through, snugged them down with just a bit of play and then loctited the nuts. When I'm drag racing I also put the turn buckle on the driver side.

After that it started pulling the spot welds loose on the engine compartment side of the shock towers. I had to pull my engine, hammer them back straight and weld all the way around all those separate pieces that are sandwiched together. Ground the welds down smooth and re-painted. It was a pain but had to be done. I didn't want to get that whole strap kit. It has held up now for a few years with no problems.

Damn your 289 must launch hard! LOL I've never had that many issues with my 393w and I make 200+ runs a year, typically launching at 5K+. Best 60 was a 1.52. I've always ran the bolts through the mounts though and I also run a chain torque strap. I replace the mounts yearly as metal on the top of the motor mounts tends to twist and bend out of shape. I am hoping that David's Anchor MM's are a little more stout there.

I will certainly check my shock towers again this winter since the motors out.

I think everything is fixed now except the cigarette lighter. It flings it out of the dash when I launch and I have to go fish around in the back or under the seat later to find it. Unlike someone on here though, my glove box door does not pop open when I run(so far).
Again, I feel that I have an inferior launch because my lighter stays in and the glove box door stays closed. The visors tend to move down though and if I leave the turn signal lever attached, it will signal for a left turn after a hard launch. Does that count? :)
 

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I would like to know if the eared mounts would work im my '70 ? Havent found a rubber mount that can stand my driving style.... ;)
 

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I would like to know if the eared mounts would work im my '70 ? Havent found a rubber mount that can stand my driving style.... ;)
They might, but I have found they will usually need some tweaking or mods to bolt in. For example, on a '69 Mustang, the ear holes were off a bit and had to be slotted to drop in. As they were for a particular chassis - expect minor to moderate mods. There may be other versions that will go right in.

Likewise, you can use the ear or stud version, hack the stud or ears off, and weld the rest to your old ears. That's usually pretty slick to put the engine right where you want it for header clearance, steering, whatever.
Anyone got a part number on those Anchor stud mount mounts?
The Anchor numbers are 2725 and 2726. The only difference between the two numbers is that the stud is offset forward on one and rearward on the other. I just used another set of those today on an engine swap fit-up. :tup:

David
 

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I received the 2725 and 2726 newer convertible motor mounts today, along with a pair of stock 65' stud mounts, 2220 and 2221. Before you spend your $$, I can tell you that there are a couple of major differences that must be overcome in order to use them in an early car.

Although the newer mounts have the stud and it appears to be at the correct angle, it is located way forward (or way rearward) compared to the early mounts. That looks easy enough to correct by drilling out the 3 rivets in the mounts and drilling a fresh location for the stud (which is tack welded in place.) The bigger concern is that the newer mounts are probably a full 1" higher than the early mounts.

Photos to follow later.
 
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