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Since interest in 9 inch Fords is still high and probably gaining ground I thought I would show some of the tech I have learned over the years.



That is an "N" case, I know it does not have the N on it but it has the 2 vertical ribs and the cross rib has the flat sections on the ends. Those ribs are the sure sign of an N case. If the cross ribs do not have the flattened sections it is a "war" case and best left where it is.



This shows the C4AW casting number which is the casting used for the "Thunderbolt" case with the 3.25 bearings. See also the small "n" beside it.

Also important is the "N" on the cap indicating a nodular iron cap which is much stronger than a regular cap.
 

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It's good when you "know" stuff! Saves money by letting you know what to look for when buying used parts or building a project. Takes study, books and experience to know what to look for and, if you are lucky, a guide or two along the way.

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Beoweolf on 4/1/06 6:09am ]</font>
 

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We might as well compile it into one thread:

Here's a WAR case 9" - not great for super high performance, but it is certainly better than an 8"


You can't read the markings in the photo, but its stamped WAR right there on the flange next to the bearing cap.


In this one, you can sort of see the the ribs that Mario mentioned - they aren't flat, they curve all the way down and contact the housing perpendicular to the flange.


I replaced the pinion bearing suppport with a Daytona style support (that is supposed to be the weakest link in the WAR case.)

The original looked weak just looking at the pinion support:

Where the rib is shiny, it was actually broken, it looked like the u-joint had broken and the driveshaft had flapped around until it broke the rib off - it should be round. I ground it down to make sure there weren't any areas stress cracks could form.

The housing itself looks similar to an 8", but it is more oval:




<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 4/1/06 6:28am ]</font>
 
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