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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need to swap my oil pump.

I had participated in a thread maybe a year or more ago, and the concensus was it would be easier to pull the motor than to wrestle with the pan.

So, I've never pulled a motor myself. Shameful isn't it?

I have a hoist and bunches of tools.

Anything special about pulling one if you're a first timer?

I'm thinking it's all nuts and bolts?

Anything I should consider if and when I can get it out?

Rear main?

Can I pull the motor with just the heads on it, no intake?

I had started rebuilding topend, heads redone, new cam, lifters, timing set, new pushrods to be ordered.

I'm working on replacing the oil pump, water pump, and getting the intake on it and back together.

It's been a while since I posted, the car's been stored and it's time for her to get going again.

Thanks for any and all help, tips, advise.
Blair

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65' Galaxie 500 4dr hardtop LTD
352 4v cruise-o-matic
97,460 mi




"In the middle of difficulty, lies opportunity", A.E.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: therookie on 6/23/06 10:22pm ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Could this please be moved to the right forum?

I meant to put this in the Gal pages.

Thanks,
Blair
 

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Best place would be the All Tech board.

Its pretty easy to pull a motor - attach a chain, take the weight off of the mounts with the lift, pull the two motor mount bolts, longitudinal to the car (in the direction of driving,) and unbolt the tranny crossmember with the two longitudinal bolts and drop it off the tranny with the two nuts on the bottom. Lift the engine up, (you'll want to put the hoist hook closer to the front of the engine so that it tilts up as you take it out) and just take it up.

It's much easier with a buddy to help, but it can be done alone. Make sure you disconnect all wires and hoses, to name a few, engine harness (oil and water senders and coil/dizzy wires), exhaust pipes, heater hoses, rad hoses, etc.

You'll probably want to have the rad out to do it (less chance of crushing it then) and the fan off of the front.

And make sure your driveshaft is out. Put a pan under the tailshaft of the tranny, because it will leak EVERYWHERE! No matter how much fluid you drain, it will leak on you, its a given fact.

With the engine on the lift, you can set it town on an old tire, or have a friend help you drop the tranny off, and then bolt the engine up to a stand.

Yes you can pull the motor with no intake - just put a bolt through a chain into the front of one head and the back of the other, and hook onto the chain. Thats pretty much the only way I've done it, I used a lift plate once. Use new grade 5 bolts, not 40 year old iffy ones.

If its old on the bottom end, I'd get a fresh gasket set, oil pan to intake manifold. New bearings certainly wouldn't hurt, but aren't necessary if they look good.

Rear main, never hurts to check. If it's leaking you can replace it without too much trouble. If its not leaking...depending on how old it is it might be soon.


Best of luck, and come back with more questions!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
On 2006-06-23 08:01, thekingofazle wrote:
Best place would be the All Tech board.

Its pretty easy to pull a motor - attach a chain, take the weight off of the mounts with the lift, pull the two motor mount bolts, longitudinal to the car (in the direction of driving,) and unbolt the tranny crossmember with the two longitudinal bolts and drop it off the tranny with the two nuts on the bottom. Lift the engine up, (you'll want to put the hoist hook closer to the front of the engine so that it tilts up as you take it out) and just take it up.

It's much easier with a buddy to help, but it can be done alone. Make sure you disconnect all wires and hoses, to name a few, engine harness (oil and water senders and coil/dizzy wires), exhaust pipes, heater hoses, rad hoses, etc.

You'll probably want to have the rad out to do it (less chance of crushing it then) and the fan off of the front.

And make sure your driveshaft is out. Put a pan under the tailshaft of the tranny, because it will leak EVERYWHERE! No matter how much fluid you drain, it will leak on you, its a given fact.

With the engine on the lift, you can set it town on an old tire, or have a friend help you drop the tranny off, and then bolt the engine up to a stand.

Yes you can pull the motor with no intake - just put a bolt through a chain into the front of one head and the back of the other, and hook onto the chain. Thats pretty much the only way I've done it, I used a lift plate once. Use new grade 5 bolts, not 40 year old iffy ones.

If its old on the bottom end, I'd get a fresh gasket set, oil pan to intake manifold. New bearings certainly wouldn't hurt, but aren't necessary if they look good.

Rear main, never hurts to check. If it's leaking you can replace it without too much trouble. If its not leaking...depending on how old it is it might be soon.


Best of luck, and come back with more questions!
Awesome, thanks for the help.

Well so far it sounds pretty easy, relaitvely anyhow.

All plumbing is unhooked since I had pulled the heads and stuff.

The exhaust mani's are off too.

No plumbing is attached and the fan/radiator are gone since I pulled them to make the cam install easier.

Could I pull the motor and tranny out still in one piece?

I see them do it on Overhaulin'.....


I was thinking that it would be easier to also assemble them together on the ground before reinstall.

Super big thanks again, and I'll have plenty of questions I'm sure.

Blair
 

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Yep, Thats why I suggested hooking the lift closer to the front of the engine on the chain - it'll help get the engine pointing up so the tranny will lift out of the compartment - It'll be at about a 45-50º angle to pull them both out at once.

Heres one of the engine install on mine - its angled and you can see its not even close to going in - basically get a buddy to stand on the tailshaft as you put it in to get it down the tunnel.



Oh, and it helps a lot to have a floorjack under the car and ready to jack the tranny up into position so you can guide the engine in and onto the mounts. Then you can tweak the angle of the two with the floorjack. If you ask me it's much more difficult to try to drop then engine in separately and line it up with the tranny.

After you do it a couple times, you can take one out in 15 minutes. Putting em in only takes 5. Its getting it ready to put in that takes the time, and then connecting them.
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 6/24/06 3:24am ]</font>
 

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Very well put, King and by the way where did you get that oil pan in that picture???
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: james302 on 6/24/06 4:41am ]</font>
 

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Custom fab - took a stock pan, cut off the bottom, and welded some new panels on. Pretty much free... as opposed to a 70 buck canton. It's a 7 qt.

Dad bent it up in his shop and welded it up, he "plated" it with some gold spray paint.

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: thekingofazle on 6/24/06 5:08am ]</font>
 

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King, thats cool thats how I got the 8 qt pan on my 302, I just cut off the bottom and made a larger sump that was deeper and kicked out on the sides. It looks just like the $100 ones from summit.
 

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King, thats cool thats how I got the 8 qt pan on my 302, I just cut off the bottom and made a larger sump that was deeper and kicked out on the sides. It looks just like the $100 ones from summit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the info guys. It rained like a mother here this weekend. I didn't get nothing done to the Gal.

Blair
 

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If there's an auto zone or decent part store you can buy a plastic piece that fits on the end of your transmission that will help from spilling the trans fluid on the ground but like thekingofazel said you will leak fluid on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I figure I'll throw one of my pans under it and catch what I can.

Whatever dribbles in the gravel, then so be it.
 

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It's going to start pouring out as soon as you pull the driveshaft and yoke out. I lost about a cupful in the time it took to pull with one hand and put a spare yoke in with the other. Do yourself a favor and see if someone has a spare yoke around. Try a trans shop. Slip it in then wrap some wire thru it and around the talishaft to hold it and your good to go for pulling and storage and reinstall.
 
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