[my67mustake]

Car: 1967 mustang coupe, 289 automatic.
History: We are doing a complete cleanup and replacement restoration. The engine has been completely rebuilt, the undercarage was stripped, cleaned and painted and all moving parts repaired or replaced. Trans was cleaned and fluid/filter changed.
Engine: complete block cleanup and machine, bored .030" crank .010" and 010" thurst bearing, complete head rebuild and new valve springs to go with new the mild cam. Flat top pistons, with moly rings. everything else was new inside and reman hang-ons along with the polished intake and edelbrock 600 carb, headers, and chrome accessories. Everything was installed by the book as they say. So ...
Problem: Engine starts and runs good (nice and loud), but will barely restart before it gets totally to operating temp and won't start once the thermostat opens. Seems like the battery goes into strain mode, battery cables get hot fast. I checked timing and its at about 8-10° BTDC. The battery is a new basic 425 cca issue for this car and probally could use a stronger one. Again, everything was replaced except the coil and distributor but has new points, condenser, cap, rotor, and wires. Going to HEI later when funds permit. The engine will restart after cool down of about 3 hours. Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks ...

 

[btaillon]

I had a problem with my Fairlane not starting after getting hot it would turn over real slow and not start. after the thing colled down it was fine. it turned out being the starter silaniod it was getting to hot while trying to start the hot motor. Don't know if it's whats wrong with yours but might be worth a try. I would also check and make sure your timing is right might even play with the timing while trying to start it.
Brett

 

[my67mustake]

I'll try that Brett even though the one I have is new it still may be bad. Also the "new" battery might have a bad cell too, and what about the reman starter. Could it be heating up and swelling? I'll just have to begin with these items and work inward. I believe the timing is about right and have tried a few degrees either way.

 

[FEandGoingBroke]

Brand new motor... Lot's of swelling pressure and friction... Starter should be stronger and the battery should EXCEED 525 CCA... That's a V8, not a 4 Cyl... I never crany a V8 with less than 525... most often I use between 600 and 800 cca


FE

 

[GES]

In Feb. I got a 67 4spd that did the same thing. Would start and run great, but didn't want to restart. It frustrated my husband because I didn't trust the car to get me to the store, or rather back from the store, that is just down the road from our home. He pulled the points and installed HEI w/ new plugs/wires and now I've got myself a daily driver.

Under $100 on ebay btw.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-Ford-HEI-distributor-50-000-volts-289-302-SBF_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33690QQitemZ8055238276

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: GES on 4/13/06 2:04pm ]</font>

 

[forthman]

I think you need a larger battery also.

 

[dacofa]

Your battery is to weak and the starter doesn't like the heat. Do you have headers on it now? If so the starter will need to be a mini one for the extra heat around it. Bad coil can also make it hard to start. When it gets warm it brakes down.

 

[coosbaylumber]

Take another look underneath the distributor cap.

Is there like a white dust on the contacts for the ignition points?

This is pretty common when the condensor is failing. New or not, they are suseptible to heat. Best to test during dark (evening). But just prop the points open with thin cardboard. Turn on key, but do not start. Then with needle nose pliers or screwdriver, open and close them. As it makes spark at the wire, should be no visable flashing around contacts. If you see a splash of sparks, the condensor is going bad. Usually they work good when cold, then poop out when hot.

Just locate the one you originally had in the distributor, and reinstall if so. Then drive it for hour or so to verify. Fellow from Falcon group had same problem with his new engine, could not get to 7-11 and back home. if this is the problem, then either take the recently purchased condensor back for exchange, or spend $1 and get another, but at a different store.

Wm.

 

[panamint]

I have had the same problem with my 70 coupe. I have done alot of reading on the problem and want I am doing to mine is to install a high torque starter. I have a 351 C with 10.5 to 1 compression and when hot the stock starter wont turn it over. The bad new is the starters are not cheep $150 to $200 .
Scott

 

[forthman]

Could be too rich

 

[gjz30075]

Is your balancer new? If not, the outer ring with the timing marks could be slipping and the timing then is not what you think it is. Determine TDC and check your timing marks.

 

[PowerByFord]

Ive had several do this.Its usually a poor ground connection.


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: PowerByFord on 4/26/06 11:06am ]</font>