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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, the good news is that it fired right up with a vengance... the bad parts are:

1: Starter gear is hitting the flexplate and making an terrible sound. Do they sell shims to space it out?

2: (the bad one) Water is dripping from what appears to be one of the exhaust ports right at the header flange, number 3 cylinder. Only thing I can think off is that its getting into the exhaust port somehow and leaking out. Took the plugs out and they seem dry.

It's always something...


Damn I spent a lot of time on those heads...
 

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Forget Advance! I didn’t know you were in Oregon. There might be another store there that has them. Motormite or helps part # 72236 going price $6.99.
Auto Zone will have thes with this part #.
 

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I hate to say this but #2 sounds to me like a crack in that exhaust valve pocket. The place where the valve pocket transitions out into the port is thin down in there on the sides. If you hit that area hard with the grinder it can get too thin and then once the head heats up to running temp it can crack at that spot. Guess how I know.
 

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Did #2 problem show up right away or only after running for a while?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Engine only ran for about 5 sec. Had to shut it down because the starter gear was hitting the flexplate. Didn't even get warm.

Think I solved the starter problem by tapping the flexplate a little and getting it straight (must of hit it when installing the motor and bent it a little). Doesn't rub anymore.

Wondering if I should start it up again and break the cam in, then see if anything is being blown into the radiator when it reaches temp. That way at least I'll know if the water coming through the exhaust port.

Total I'd say about two tablespoons have leaked out since last night.

Enough to make a grown man cry
 

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Feel lucky? If you have a head problem and introduce water/coolant into the oil stream, i think you would cause more damage than good during breakin. I would try to determine EXACTLY where the leak is coming from. Good luck.
 

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So, you have the headers off yet? If so, get one of those little dentist's mirrors and look up in that port and see what you can see. This probably isn't much help, but it's an idea and you won't have to take the head off yet.
Is it possible you don't have the head torqued down sufficiently? I'd double check the torque on each head bolt. Maybe the head isn't sealed and it's just blowing moisture up out of the cylinder. Is it possible you got a chunk of crap under the gasket before you set them down? You said your plugs were dry though, hmmmm. Just trying to think positive for you. I'll keep thinking on this one. Somebody on here can help you, good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the input guys... although nobody gave me the "oh yeah, its that little plug that needs to be tightened up" response I was looking for!

So far no water in the oil, seems to isolated at the one port, nothing in the chamber either.

Good idea with the mirror Pale Rider, I'll pull a header off tonight and see if I can identify where it's coming from.

When I ported the heads I didn't take a huge amount from the sides, you can see the pictures of them in the porting part of the archives. I guess it only needs to happen in one little spot though.

I just want to start it up so I can listen to it again!
 

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Did you use head studs or bolts? Sometimes the studs leak coolant.A buddy of mine leaked for about 20 mins running time and then went away.
 

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It could be coming from the header bolt sometimes they cast them a little wrong I have seen that before?????????
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I'll check tonight when I pull the header off. Would be nice if it was something easy like that.
 

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Is there any coolent in the header? Like if you unbolt the collector? I would think most of it would go down inside the header (if it is leaking from inside the exhaust port).


Are you going to use any kind of limited slip with the 3.55s?
 

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It is possible that the intake is leaking a little around the water passages and its running through the cylinder, but I would think you would see water/steam out the exhoust.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Dragman,

I'll find out when I pull the header off, it kind of looks like my header gasket is just leaking the water out.

As for the 3.55's I was planning on some sort of limited slip, not sure which one to go with yet. Of course, it depends on if I have any money left after rebuilding another head!


Are you running one? If so what kind?

Billgear, I haven't ran it long enough to see anything come out the exhaust yet. Chambers looked dry though, thats why I'm ruling out the intake.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Looks like a cracked head.

There is a hairline crack about 2 inches long above the #3 exhaust port under where the valve cover seats.

Somebody tell me it can be fixed! There is no way the shop checked that head, and I'm sure I didn't do it.

 

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SHAFT!!! These are times that try men's souls.
If it's out of the combustion chamber there are welders out there that may tackle it. However, I'd be worried about a surface weld holding all that needs held. That crack obviously goes into a water passage somewhere and that's where it's going to need sealed.
What you may be left with it very expensive(for us po' folk) boat anchor. A crack in any passage on any head is a bad thing. I'd be looking for a matching casting, or two, and start swapping hard parts and getting busy with the grinder. However, a little less busy than before! Is it possible that the crack was there from the get-go and not a result from machining or porting? Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
The crack was there before I did anything. It's on the exterior just under the lip that the valve cover sits on. I don't even know how I could have craked it there if I had wanted to!

I actually saw it when I got the heads back from the shop! But I just thought was a funny casting mark. (yea, I'm an idiot) I didn't give it much thought because it was "checked" and it just seemed to be in the lip (hard to explain where it is typing). I didn't even think about having a cracked head! Lessons learned I guess.

I'm taking it to the shop on my lunch break today... we'll see what they have to say.

What makes me cringe is all the porting, polishing, matching, combustion chamber CC'ing I did on those heads.... uhhh

Thanks for the help, I'll let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Just got back from the shop. They took the fall and said they would pay to either have it fixed, or if I brought in another head they would do the work again. I decided to try and get it fixed in order to avoid all that port work again.

Went to a shop that specializes in cast iron heads and repair to see if they could fix it. The guy hooked it up to some magnet thing to see how long the crack really was... looked like it was about 6 inches long! The guy goes "yea, I'll chase it as far as need to, be good as new... pick it up on monday".

Amazing, I thought there would be no way to fix it. Still a little worried... but at least there is hope.
 
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