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Discussion Starter #1
How do you adjust the steering box? The only way I have read to do it is with a in/lb torque wrench. its on a 67 stang. The steering is loose and everything is real tight, new tie rods etc. All the play seems to be comeing from the box.

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-Walt-

1964 Comet 289 C4 daily driver
TFS TW, Weiand Stealth, Comp XE268, Rhodes lifters, TFS roller rockers, Carter 625 AFB, Hooker SuperComps
"These go to 11." -This is Spinal Tap

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: dragman64 on 3/19/02 4:55am ]</font>
 

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There's a threaded adjuster with a screwdriver slot and locknut sticking out of the steering box. Loosen the locknut, then tighten the adjuster down until it meets just a little bit of resistance... then tighten the locknut. Presto, it's adjusted!


If you get it too tight, the steering will feel stiff, and it won't want to return to center when you let go of the wheel. If it is too loose, the steering will have play and feel sloppy.

It's a VERY easy adjustment to make, and there are TONS of vehicles out there that would benefit greatly from it... if the owner only knew it needed done.

Homework... Everyone go out and adjust your steering box!

Good Luck!
 

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hey guys, 67stang just told me that when you do this, your just tightening the pressure on the bearings basically. This fix will work for about 2000 miles, and will just do it again. The best bet is to get a flaming river steering box replacement. It uses all new roller bearings and is near rack and pinion style steering. www.flamingriver.com

Chris

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 66stang on 3/19/02 5:20am ]</font>
 

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Discussion Starter #5
How do you tell when a unit is really worn out?
 

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When you keep adjusting it... again, and again, and again, and again... And it won't stay tight. That is when it's worn out. Sometimes they will develop 'catches' or be sloppy, even with a good adjustment. This is a sign the little balls are all flat-spotted or the bearings have come apart.

Most people who replace or rebuild the box don't really need to... an adjustment is all that is usually required unless it has seen some extensive or severe service.

I rebuilt mine years ago on a 'whim' with a kit from someplace, but the parts that came out were just as good as the ones that went back in.


Good Luck!

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Mike Burch, 66 mustang real street
302 4-speed 289 heads, 10.63 @ 129.3
http://www.geocities.com/carbedstangs/cmml_mburch.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/silverstone/healey/367

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: n2omike on 3/19/02 6:31am ]</font>
 

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My only comment is that the proper way to adjust it is to jack the car up and follow the instructions in a shop manual (i can post these later.) When you simply loosen the lock nut and tighten the adjustment screw, you risk damaging the reciprocating ball mechanism, it is not meant to be adjusted with the load of the front end on the steering shaft.
 

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My two cents ...

Tighten it no more than 1/4 turn at a time ... If that ain't tight enough it's easy to do another 1/4 turn ... until it feels right.

It is my understanding that setting it too tight can cause serious problems for the unit ...

Too loose is simply too loose ....
 

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Just went threw it all in my 65 mustang' you need to back off the the sector shaft adjusting screw on top of box ..then tighten or losen large lock ring from around the input shaft adjust to 4 or 5 inch pounds,before doing so you need to disconnect pitman arm from center link,,then once you have that done go back to the sector shaft ajusting screw and adjust the total mesh load to 8 to 9 inch pounds,,
 

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oh ya I was able to bring the box into spec's but it was still loose and not fun to drive, I went and bought a flaming river box and it steer's better than new,the steering is tight with no sloop,its the best thing I did to the car
 

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Their is supose to be a slight amount of play , at the pitman arm , I am not for curtian on a 65 but newer truck steering bowes are not suppose to be adjusted til the adjustment screw bottoms out that is wrong , your suppose to adjust it till the slop tightens up in the pitman arm. The screw by turning it in will pull the pitman gear up increasing play , screwing it out tightens it up because it moves the gears closer together . I am not sure on the old boxes because I havent had to go into it yet but the is how it works on late modle steering boxes , but with anything Iam not sure with
I resort to my altime absolute cure , look it up in a book . If I were you I would research it in books till you find the correct info . Also a little tip see a front end man at a dealer , they know there $#!% of coarse pick one that is a little older that has messed with them , the front end man in my shop Has worked on the older mustangs , and back then the manufacture let them rebuild them in the shop. I was just talking with him about this , and he said if it is only 179.99 for a rebuilt one then that is much cheeeper than you can rebuild it for . Also I am going to replace mine with a 16:1 ratio from mustangs unlimited their is a 100.00 dollar core , but 179.99 I think and that will tighten it up alot from 20:1. oh well this got babled on to long sorry , just that I have been working on the same project.

lowside
 

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If you have the 5 volume orange shop manuals it says how to do it in there. I can't seem to find my chassis one right now, but I'll scan the page and post it when I find it.
 
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