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Discussion Starter #1
So I have a complete stock 289 in a 1967 mustang. Stock 2 barrel carb. Ect.

I wanna make more hp and torque while prioritizing reliability.
It is my daily driver. I have been told that the GT40p heads, a aluminum 4 barrel intake, a 4 barrel carburetor, full length headers, a slightly more aggressive cam shaft, and an msd ignition distributor would help drastically over the stock.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Build suggestions would be awesome. I want to keep it reliable as a daily but I want it to perform better.
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All are popular choices and have been done many times. A couple ideas you may want to consider:
The long tube headers typically hang down under the frame, so your under car clearance is reduced. You may want to think about shorty headers.
The GT40P heads have straight rather than angled spark plugs, making fitting them and changing them tuff. The plain GT40 heads use the angled plugs like your stock heads.
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1965 Ford Falcon Futura
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Trick Flow sales a Stage I cams that would work well with the upgrades you listed. Should be very streetable. With what you listed you will be very pleased with the performance.
 

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Trick Flow sales a Stage I cams that would work well with the upgrades you listed. Should be very streetable. With what you listed you will be very pleased with the performance.
Would that require changing my flat tappets to rollers? And everything that also entails
 

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GT40P heads may reduce your options for headers. Not sure what is available for a 67 mustang but there was nothing available for my combination.
All are popular choices and have been done many times. A couple ideas you may want to consider:




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My question is what's your pain level when it comes to cost for all this. "Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go"? By your picture, I believe you have auto trans? If so, you might need to put some money into that also. Along with a better gear setup.
 

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The best setup is a set of alum heads with medium size valves, 1.9int, 1.6 exh with medium size ports. Other wise you kill your bottom end due to head flow. Good intake and nothing bigger then a 600 cfm carb. Aftermarket heads will work with stock header setup. Plus they already have threated studs and guide plates. Mild cam, nothing over .430 lift and mild dur [email protected] The shortblock is where you need the most help. Stock pistons are weak as are the stock rod bolts. Use roller tip rocker arms.
Replace the small 5/16" fuel line and use a beefer fuel pump. And don't forget the radiator/cooling system will need upgrading.
Good windage tray, a little deeper oil pan and stock pump, better timing chain set up. If you're running an auto trans, you'll have to go with at least 1 step up looser convertor.
How do I know what not to do? Had 66 Stang 289 2bbl/C-4 back in 72. Did the headers, 4 bbl, big Crane cam kit. Banged in and out of gear and was a dog until 3000 rpms, with a 2.80 gear. But she'd do 135mph. That was, until I developed piston slip and had to rebuild it, after 5000 miles of playing with it.
Like I asked, what's your pain $$$$$$ level?
 

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Swap out the 289 for a later 5.0 1987-93 H.O. that way you already get more cubes a roller cam valve train and better cylinder heads, use your present 289 oil pan and water pump and timing cover you will have to change your harmonic balancer to this: Professional Products Small Block Ford Harmonic Balancers Because the later 5.0's use a 50 ounce balance factor this also has the bolt pattern to retain your stock pullies you also need to change your transmission flexplate to a 50 ounce unit.
 

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Ricky gave you the key to your question...determine the budget. Also, determine acceptable downtime and budget for the rest of the car. Reliable power is easy, but depending how much, depends what you need to do to the rest of the car to support it, and what the end use is going to be. Some immediate tricks though, in order

1 - Make sure you are getting full throttle, using your foot, they way you would drive it. That means having someone look and not jamming your foot in the cowl like a crazy man, replicate how you would "floor it"

2 - An open element 14 inch air cleaner generally helps, and makes it sound faster

3 - Recurve the distributor (and add electronic ignition if it doesn't have it) Even with a new one it needs a recurve, it will make it feel much stronger part throttle and increase mileage to boot

4 - Headers and a good dual exhaust with an X or H pipe, avoid Flowmasters, they don't give as much benefit as others, Magnaflow, Jones Full Boar, Ultraflow, Borla ProXS are good streetable muffflers

5 - If you have a automatic - consider a shift improver kit, it will last longer and feel like a hot rod when it bangs gears

6 - If you are low on cash, a 2 barrel 500 Holley will add 30HP on a 200 HP 352, I would expect 15-20 on yours, however, if not, then go 4 barrel intake and carb to match operating range

7 - Then start thinking about going inside, however, I would likely build a 302-347 and swap, to make much more power and avoid downtime
 
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Find a 1997/8/9 Mountaineer or Explorer 5.0 2wd cheap. Drive it for a while and grab the drive train and electronics. The 4r70w is a thing of wonder.
 

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The best setup is a set of alum heads with medium size valves, 1.9int, 1.6 exh with medium size ports. Other wise you kill your bottom end due to head flow. Good intake and nothing bigger then a 600 cfm carb. Aftermarket heads will work with stock header setup. Plus they already have threated studs and guide plates. Mild cam, nothing over .430 lift and mild dur [email protected] The shortblock is where you need the most help. Stock pistons are weak as are the stock rod bolts. Use roller tip rocker arms.
Replace the small 5/16" fuel line and use a beefer fuel pump. And don't forget the radiator/cooling system will need upgrading.
Good windage tray, a little deeper oil pan and stock pump, better timing chain set up. If you're running an auto trans, you'll have to go with at least 1 step up looser convertor.
How do I know what not to do? Had 66 Stang 289 2bbl/C-4 back in 72. Did the headers, 4 bbl, big Crane cam kit. Banged in and out of gear and was a dog until 3000 rpms, with a 2.80 gear. But she'd do 135mph. That was, until I developed piston slip and had to rebuild it, after 5000 miles of playing with it.
Like I asked, what's your pain $$$$$$ level?
Don't agree with everything here...
Entry level aftermarket heads with 58cc or smaller chambers will work well on your engine Larger chambers will lose too much compression. Stock heads are 54.5cc.
Agree with cam duration. No reason to limit lift, though. Ran a Crane HMV 272 with similar duration and 0.484"/0.512" lift. Ran awesome. Excess duration is what kills power, not lift.
Short block is PLENTY STRONG in stock form. I've pushed stock rods with 5/16" bolts to 7k rpm on nitrous to mid 10 second ET's. No problem. Just built a budget engine for my friend's Falcon Gasser. Stock rods and 7k rpm all season long. Has aftermarket 5/16" bolts, but the stock ones are fine. People pushed the 5.0 Fox mustangs FAR harder than you'll be doing with their stock short block... which is weaker than what you have. Your cast pistons are fine. Just check valve clearance if you install an aftermarket cam OR heads with larger valves. VERY important. You may need to widen out the valve reliefs.
Depending on what you do, a beefier mechanical fuel pump is a good idea. I always liked the Carter street pumps. Plenty for what you're doing.
The rear gear will make a huge difference. I would not go any further than a 3.25 on a street car. Will make a huge difference over the stock 2.80-ish rear. (2.80 is what came in my 66 when I bought it in 1983)

But, there is no 'one' item you can install to really make a big difference. The carb is small, the intake is small, the heads are terrible, and the exhaust is restrictive. At the least, you'll need a decent carb, intake, heads and headers with a minimum 2-1/4" exhaust. A small cam would be nice, as well as a recurved or aftermarket distributor and fuel pump. If you want to do it in stages, I'd go with the carb, intake and headers/exhaust first... as you won't have to dig into the engine. Maybe add a 3.25 gear, and it should be a lot of fun. That's the first thing I did to my car back in the 80's, and had a BLAST with it!

Good Luck!
 

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FORD FLOTEK 180cc Small Block Ford Cylinder Heads 203-505FT
This head is prefect. That much lift kills low RPM air speed on the intake side. For street, to big. IMO, but then that's just like rectums, we all have one.
 

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One ignition upgrade you can do on the cheap is the "gofastforless" point fired TFI ignition in combination with a distributor re-curve. If you research this and learn all the aspects and purposes of the re-curve, it will help you tune every carbureted engine you ever own. When doing performance upgrades, the re-curve becomes increasingly more important. Getting a bigger spark will help your stock motor right away. I used GT40 heads on my car, and the cost of the head (U-pull-it) + valve spring kit (Alex parts)+ milling .040 (to get 58cc chamber) + pedestal shim kit set me back 400 plus dollars, and that was with valve lapping and no valve job. It took almost a full day to go to the junkyard, pull the heads, and go home, plus the trips out there to look at junk explorers in the 1996-97 range to see what was there. My time is not extremely valuable and my budget is naught.....but even a simple head swap can swell into many hundreds of dollars without even addressing headers, exhaust, cam, carb and intake. Do a lot of research, and dont underestimate the value of something as boring as a gear swap. It is less expensive to tear your motor down once, or build one on a stand over time and swap it. Take your time and read everything. Figure out exactly what you want if you can.
 
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