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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an old Mercury with a 351C 2V. It is time for a rebuild and my goal is definitely permormance oriented. I am seriously considering a 408 stroker. With the kits commonly available they generally include 6" rods and forged pistons. I personally would prefer hypereutectic pistons. Can anyone help me here. Do they use Chevy style 6" rods? Because I am having a difficult time finding any 6" rods for a Ford,
let alone a Cleveland. If they do indeed use Chevy rods what pistons would I need to look for if I wanted to find my own hyper pistons? Would I find Chevy pistons .030" over for a 6" rod? Because I can't find such pistons for a 351C. Thanks for the help!!

David


<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: DLV555 on 10/29/06 12:53pm ]</font>
 

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PM'd you, let me know if it helps!

Cris
 

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A buddy of mine is doing a 393c on a six inch rod. Yes it is a chevy rod and he is using vinolia pistons. We are going with bluethunder heads. Looking to make 675 to 700 hp on pump gas. He got the bottom end kit from bbr raceing in PA. complete. They have a web site and the phone number is on it. Charlie is the man and knows his stuff.
 

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I would use a 6.0 chevy rod with a flat top piston. if your going to stay with the 2v heads I would have them ported to try and get 250 cfm at .450-500 lift and use a hydralic roller cam with around 625-650 lift.
106-107 c/l sep and you will be happy with a heavy car.
Mike S
 

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The best is to use the Chevy 6 inch rod. This will require you to have special pistons with the .927 chevy wrist pin size. The compression height that I use on the piston is 1.990, this will give you a little to clean the deck surface when you deck it. I used the Eagle crank and rods with the L19 bolts. I also used flat top pistons. If you use a good flat top piston and go with a set of light wrist pins you want have to add mallory to the crank when balancing. Hope this helps.
 

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On 2006-10-29 16:43, pinto306 wrote:
The compression height that I use on the piston is 1.990, this will give you a little to clean the deck surface when you deck it.
Are you sure you don't mean 1.190"? 1.990 won't fit.
Mine are 1.200"
 

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On 2006-10-29 18:55, clevelandstyle wrote:
On 2006-10-29 16:43, pinto306 wrote:
The compression height that I use on the piston is 1.990, this will give you a little to clean the deck surface when you deck it.
Are you sure you don't mean 1.190"? 1.990 won't fit.
Mine are 1.200"
OOPS!!
cleveland style, I knew you were watching.
I was just checking you to see if you were asleep!
You are correct. 1.190 compression height.
Thanks, Edwin
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Are those pistons for any particular application? Does the wrist pin encroach on the oil ring area at that compression height?
 

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On 2006-11-05 11:42, DLV555 wrote:
Are those pistons for any particular application? Does the wrist pin encroach on the oil ring area at that compression height?
which pistons??
 

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On 2006-11-06 10:57, DLV555 wrote:
The pistons you mentioned with a 1.190 compression height.
This is for a stock height 351 cleveland block, using a 4 inch stroke crank and 6 inch rods.
Yes the piston pin does intrude into the oil ring but I have not had any problems.

Hope this helps
 

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On 2006-11-06 14:27, pinto306 wrote:
On 2006-11-06 10:57, DLV555 wrote:
The pistons you mentioned with a 1.190 compression height.
This is for a stock height 351 cleveland block, using a 4 inch stroke crank and 6 inch rods.
Yes the piston pin does intrude into the oil ring but I have not had any problems.

Hope this helps
This still provides a good ring package that is not compressed too much and uses the 1/16 1/16 3/16 ring set. Even though the pin goes into the oil ring the rings are much cheaper than the MM rings. Looks solid to me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Okay thanks for the advice. I've had people discourage me from attempting this build. What are your thoughts on this particular stroker kit? I don't plan to build a racecar, mostly just a weekend cruiser and occasional show car with the ability to go to the track, if desired. It is for my wife's car and she really likes the "wow" factor of having over 400 cubic inches.
 

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The people who discourage Cleveland builds are the people who have never built a Cleveland. They just don't know what it takes and what the "secret"
cleveland tricks are. Most of peoples mislead info comes from magazines
or other people repeating what they read in a magazine. There is a LOT of chevy guys who have no idea of what it takes.(including machine shops)

By all means, if you already have a cleveland then start with the cleveland. Don't let anyone tell you that you shouldn't do it. 408 cleveland can be a lot of fun and suprizingly can be less work than a windsor built.
 

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I dont know about that. Ive built a bunch of Clevelands and while I wouldnt necessarily discourage anyone from building one I would warn that the Windsor based engines are a lot easier to build and do offer FAR better parts support at much better pricing. Theres some decent Cleveland parts out there but theres a LOT better choice in Windsor blocks, intakes, cranks, rods, pistons, cams, lifters, heads, headers, oiling sytems etc. Its one of those things. Given good heads and enough time and money you can make any engine run and theres certainly nothing wrong with being different but after a while beating your head against a wall just starts to hurt. JMHO the Windsor has evolved into a better engine than the Cleveland. 30 years ago it was different. Once the Aftermarket started running with the Windsor that changed.
 

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So in what way do you think the windsor build is "easier" than a Cleveland build? I bought a stroker kit with good quality forged crank, H-beam rods and Ross forged pistons for no more $ than a compairable Windsor kit. It was a bolt in. No grinding crank or rod clearence. No interferance with the oil pump. A true bolt in. It doesn't get much easier.

I will agree that the Windsor has more parts available. I can also go to the hardware store and buy 15 different kinds of mouse traps, but the old stand by wooden trap still kills them every time.
 

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The biggest advantage as I see it is the taller deck. Everythig else is about the same. You can get a little longer rod and a little more stroke. With the windsor deck you can even use Cleveland heads if you feel like it. To each his own and theres some things I really like about the cleveland . First and foremost being the water neck placement. The windsor is just easier to build a bigger cube motor with. Its all relative anyway. I have a windsor. Know how many Ford parts are in it? The water pump. Came in a Ford box. Thats it. Everything else is aftermarket. Is it REALLY a windsor or even a Ford ? I use a Cleveland pattern crank, chevy pattern rods etc. Nah...
 

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stick with the cleveland ive built windsor 408s and cleveland 408s and ive had no problem getting parts for either. if you have it use it, i have a pump gas clevo 408 that puts 500 to the rear treads just do the right block mods and you ll have no problems, or get an aussie 4 bolt block and be done with it
 
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