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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anybody have an opinion on using a 71 clevland block to build a 408 stroker motor? Has anybody used a cleveland block for a stroker engine and been trouble free? I have a 71 stock block on a 4.00in bore. I believe also I've read in this forum about filling the block part way with block hardener. Has anybody done this in a street application? I really cant have any overheating problems as I'll be using aluminium heads. Maybe I should concider 393 instead? Any feedback is appreciated.
 

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Ive built a 393 cleveland and put it in a 72 mustang in which the block came stock. Its a 2-bolt main 351 2V block.

supposedly the 408 will make more torque and power, of course. But the 393 supposedly is a better revving kit because of the slightly shorter stroke, and will make about the same power. Honestly the cubic inches between the 2 make no difference to me, theyre both the same kinda.

Anyway, get I did a 393 with forged pistons, forged steel scat crak and scat h-beam rods. custom crowe cam with 239 intake/246 exhaust @ .50 duration and .588 intake/ .614 exhaust valve lift.

the heads i believe are stock with sliiiiighty ported pockets and a 3-angle valve job

i believe i have about 11.8:1 compression and i run the motor on 108 or 112 octane fuel. either or is fine, even 100 octane is fine.

i used a torker manifold with a 750 proform main bodied double pumper carb. what else.. umm.....

oh yea!!! REMEMBER THIS... for the OILING SYSTEM... look up MPGheads.com and order the line that runs from the back of the block to the front to help oil the motor, and you can either install moroso oil restrictor which i did not use because i thought the holes were too smal (you can drill them open a bit more to flow a bit more oil), i got another set of restrictors but i forgot the name of the company. ALSO... use a stock style oil pump not high volume and a ford racing high pressure spring (DONT GET MOROSO HIGH PRESSURE SPRING - the pressure pegs past 100ibs) ... and thats about it for the oiling system to keep the motor up and kickin... not blowin up or breakin down..

i also have a milodon oil pan and weiand water pump.... i dont have a windage tray on it...

let me tell you...... this motor.... can peg 6000 with no posi and 3.08 gears in a 9" rear like there is ... no.. tomorrow....

i put 4.11 gears on the car and auburn posi... this freakin motor pulls REALLY REALLY REALLY HARD... and so far we didnt even do any porting to the heads or did any other kind of trick... just valve job.. big solid roller cam... big cubes to use up the port volume and make em as if they were E7TE's on a 306 .. lolol.....


you're gonna like this motor..... ALOT

trust me
 

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oh yea.... for the exhaust i used hooker super comp headers with 2" primaries and 3-1/2" collectors with 3" reducers and a jegs x-pipe with 50 series flowmaster mufflers and turndowns... all 3" system works great and SCREAMS HIGH at like.... say 3500 to 4000 and up... hehehhe yea i know..




i didnt answer one of your questions about overheating problems....i have a factory stock 3-core radiator... you dont need aluminum unless you're trying to save weight but a stock radiator hurts nothing wat so ever so dont worry you're not driving a prostock....

and i also have ONE BeCool electric radiator... and a 160 degree thermostat

the engine ... well when you have the fan turned on at a good enough temperature...

the engine STAYS at 170 degrees ....

once i needed to adjust the temp for the fan to go off and the engine went up to about 210 degrees but when the fan kicked in it went straight to 170 degrees..


so dont worry about the block overheating... just dont bore the bores over .030 inches... just leave the piston size at 4.030 inches and get speedpro low tension rings and you'll be fine....


you've got nothing to worry about...

also check out my motor at this sight on cardomain.com:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/725556/6

OR... hear my mustang on musclecarcalendar.com:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello 393, whats it run in the 1/4 mile? Also whats the mile per hour in the 1/4? Do you just limit it to run at to 6 grand? How long has this combo been in the car? Thanks for the imput, sorry for all the questions. Ken
 

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oh yea.... for the exhaust i used hooker super comp headers with 2" primaries and 3-1/2" collectors with 3" reducers and a jegs x-pipe with 50 series flowmaster mufflers and turndowns... all 3" system works great and SCREAMS HIGH at like.... say 3500 to 4000 and up... hehehhe yea i know..




i didnt answer one of your questions about overheating problems....i have a factory stock 3-core radiator... you dont need aluminum unless you're trying to save weight but a stock radiator hurts nothing wat so ever so dont worry you're not driving a prostock....

and i also have ONE BeCool electric radiator... and a 160 degree thermostat

the engine ... well when you have the fan turned on at a good enough temperature...

the engine STAYS at 170 degrees ....

once i needed to adjust the temp for the fan to go off and the engine went up to about 210 degrees but when the fan kicked in it went straight to 170 degrees..


so dont worry about the block overheating... just dont bore the bores over .030 inches... just leave the piston size at 4.030 inches and get speedpro low tension rings and you'll be fine....


you've got nothing to worry about...

also check out my motor at this sight on cardomain.com:

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/725556/6

OR... hear my mustang on musclecarcalendar.com:

http://musclecarcalendar.com/MyGarage2006/72Mustang/72MustangHome.htm

and when you listen to my car.... understand that everybody else on the site revs theyre cars up HIGH and leave it there...

i just tapped the gas and mind you... the highest i did when i recorded my car ...... i hit about... say about 3200 rpms.. and yea it sounds kinda rough... you should hear what the F$#K it makes at 5500 to 6000...... imagine.... rrprprrmrbrbmbrmrbmbr RRAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHH.....

yea i know.... sound effects.... but it screams like crazy
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I agree with you on the moroso oil restrictors. I haven't run a cleveland for 25 years or so but I built a 351 back in the 80s and installed the oil restrictors. Ran engine for break in period , then went to the track. Engine bent and broke a few pushrods. Tore engine down to check for debris, found no damage except the cam bearings showed unusual wear for the time it was run. Wasn't sure whether it was from the excessive valve spring pressure or from a lack of oiling to the cambearings. We changed the bearings and also opened up the restrictor plugs. I dont remember how much we opened them up but upon inspection the next few years we never found it as a problem again. Never had heating problems with 351 cubes. Also had smallish radiator out of a 65 mustang installed in car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi mike, nice looking car. Very nice job on the interior and the paint looks good also. Engine also sounds great. Nice car! Ken.
 

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oh yea!!! REMEMBER THIS... for the OILING SYSTEM... look up MPGheads.com and order the line that runs from the back of the block to the front to help oil the motor, and you can either install moroso oil restrictor which i did not use because i thought the holes were too smal (you can drill them open a bit more to flow a bit more oil), i got another set of restrictors but i forgot the name of the company. ALSO... use a stock style oil pump not high volume and a ford racing high pressure spring (DONT GET MOROSO HIGH PRESSURE SPRING - the pressure pegs past 100ibs) ... and thats about it for the oiling system to keep the motor up and kickin... not blowin up or breakin down..
FWIW - I've got 1500+ passes with two shifts at 6000 RPM every pass on a 351C and I use no restrictors and I don't use the rear line. Oil pressure is the same as new. Use appropriate clearances for the crank and rods, check your passenger side lifter bore clearance closely. IF the lifter bore clearance is too much, you will loose a lot of volume. I run a Melling HV pump deburred, a Milodon 9 quart pan with 8 quarts and an MPG scraper. The cam bearings are installed upside down and an .050 hole drilled in from the main saddle. Unless you want to buzz it to the moon, it doesn't take any fancy tricks to keep a 351C oiled. Ever hear of the "poor oiling system" in a 429 or 460? No? Odd, it's the same system as a 351C.

I measure pressure at the back of the block - 72 PSI cold, 30~40 in gear fully hot, 60 hot at 2000 - with 10w30 oil.
 

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i havent ran the car down the strip a state away.. (Englishtown, NJ)

but i will take it soon in July and i will let you all know how it runs.. my father thinks it will hopefully do 12... meanwhile ive done countless hours on researching different combos and engines that their heads flow similar to the 4V cleveland head and supposedly those cars run 11 secs and lower.

i honestly expect this car to run somewhere in the 11 second zone.... if the car is light enough... maybe 10.90's.. but i doubt that

oh.. and when you listen to my car on musclecarcalendar.com.... turn the volume up cuz its alot louder than you think..... especially w/o the mufflers but ever car is loud that way...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello 393, hope the car runs well for you when you take it to the track. Please keep me posted on how it runs.Thanks for the info on your build. Ken
 
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