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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I just bought one on craigslist. I have a few questions about it
Is 140 too much for it?
What is the tolerance for the shaft play?
The blades have small nicks in each blade can that be grinned or fixed?
I want to know what I should do, if its dead I am going to return it whether the guy wants it back or not.

The micrometer was in inch. I did the reading by putting oil inside the turbo housing, spinning the turbo to center, aligning the micrometer to a starting point which you can see was between .013-0.14'. Then pushing the blade towards the meter and taking the reading.
 

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Rather than list technical specs that you may not be able to use anyway, here's the junkyard test:

Grab the threaded end of the compressor shaft. Press to one side and hold firmly for a few seconds. Press the shaft to the opposite side and hold for a few seconds. This presses residual oil from the bearing bores. Now, you should be able to wiggle the shaft from side-to-side. If you can wiggle it more than the thickness of a matchbook cover, it needs rebuilding. If you can hold it to one side and turn it, and you feel any scraping or other internal contact - it's toast and needs major rebuilding that is beyond the average home mechanic. Same goes for in/out play - pass that one up.

Pressing the oil out is important, as you can take a junk turbo, squirt some heavy oil in it, and it will feel like new if you just spin it. You want to know how far the shaft will wander before it actually hits the bearing bore.

As far as blade nicks, really small ones can be carefully dressed with a Swiss file to match blade contour and it will function. You will lose some efficiency though. If it is missing any actual material, the blade is toast. If the nick is large enough that a common straight pin will sit flush or lower after dressing, both the air flow and the blade balance become a concern. While lot s of turbos have gone lots of grocery miles with larger nicks, if using it for performance, you really do not want to risk your whole engine if it eats blown compressor blades.

Finally, any nicks larger than mentioned require crack checking at a machine shop. Most rebuilders will simply toss a nicked compressor for a new one as insurance against damage to the whole engine. HTH

David
 

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where are you at Turbo? I would be interested in it if you dont want it
 

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Discussion Starter #5
where are you at Turbo? I would be interested in it if you dont want it
NY, If its usable I wouldn't mind keeping it, i am really hunting for one. But if no one can answer me for sure, with the pictures and micrometer reading, I would sell it for what i paid. + shipping to where ever you might be. I actually just returned another one because the blades were bent and i believe they did that because of too much shaft play.
 

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Without seeing it torn-down, and I can't see if there was any housing contact - it may be repairable for stock-level duty. Hard to see, but tha's some pretty good leading-edge damage, and by appearances looks like someone ran without an air filter for a few days. A rebuild kit and (I would do) and compressor wheel may do it - once you confirm internal condition.

The question is how are you going to use it? There are alternatives.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Without seeing it torn-down, and I can't see if there was any housing contact - it may be repairable for stock-level duty. Hard to see, but tha's some pretty good leading-edge damage, and by appearances looks like someone ran without an air filter for a few days. A rebuild kit and (I would do) and compressor wheel may do it - once you confirm internal condition.

The question is how are you going to use it? There are alternatives.

David
The housing seems seems clean there are no scraping marks or marks on the housing. I thought same thing with air filter, how much would you do to rebuild it? Would you also balance?

? isn't there suppose to be a green,yellow,etc marking on the wheel and the nut like a tamper proof mark. I can't find one on the nut just on the wheel.

Usage will be just in the summer really, not a racer, just a street car. Every once in a while open her up, but most of its time low boost or no boost.
 

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Clearance of the blades to the hsg was usualy about 20 thousands. Tilt might be a bit less but not much. Aracing turbo like some indy 500 ones would be a bit closed like 16 thousands. Might be off a bit havet designed a turbo since 1990.
 

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If there is no internal damage, I would kit it (~$40-$50) and get a fresh compressor wheel ($50-$90 depending on part number). I would balance it if you tried dressing the existing blades. Balancing would not be necessary if you replaced the compressor wheel, as each part is balanced separately. Now you have to figure if it's worth $100 or more in parts plus your labor to do - if the guts are otherwise OK (primarily the shaft and turbine section).

For a stock or mild performance application, you have to consider that's almost as much for parts as a new imported stock replacement turbo. There are two types of cheap import "eBay" turbos - stock replacement and ones that look like high-end racing turbos. Both are stock equivalent, just that the 'race' versions have internal waste gates removed. If you are using it for a mild application (meaning stock flow and maybe a bit more pressure) then they are fine. When folks get into trouble is over-speeding them, trying to push them outside their flow range, instead of up-sizing to a higher-flow turbo. Near stock - they're fine. Something to ponder if that's your actual use.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Have you had any experience with the ebay turbo? My buddies was within the flow chart and after 2 months cloud of smoke. This was on a Mercedes 190 Evo and the cars motor was running NA previously, couldn't even start the car. He ended up with a Garrett 60-1 now runs great. Anyway at the moment I am in negotiating for another type of garrett my self. If someones interested i will sell for what i paid.
 
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