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Yes, camshaft determines firing order. No problem - use your kit. The factory roller cams are more efficient for both power and mileage, but it's not worth eating your flat-tappet cam and buying everything to put a roller in for what you're doing. I would use the kit's flat cam and drive happy.

Is the shop going to modify your original crank for the roller block, or use a later crank and re-balance it?

David
 

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I see, so the camshaft is what determines the firing order and not the crankshaft? What benefits will I get from using a roller valve train as opposed to the hydraulic? I am really building the car to an 'economically efficient' purpose, so I'd like it to be as fuel efficient as it can, no need for too much power. I may build a bigger engine later on, but for now this thing will be sufficient for my needs.
I already purchased the 68 302 rebuild kit with original style camshaft/hydraulic lifters since my machine shop told me my old 68 302 block wasn't cracked, then they 'found' a crack and so I had to find a newer 5.0L roller block (it doesnt have the stock camshaft) so to save $$ I am stuck using the 68 302 hydraulic flat-tappet camshaft and lifters in the roller block.

Thanks for the info again David!
hello;

you need to determine what type and octane gas you want to use and build the propercompression for it.

for max mileage i would deck the block so the pistons are .003 - .005" below the deck.

roller rockers will improve mileage and power slightly and reduce valve guide and valve tip wear. i use scorpions.

a multi fire ignition box will improve perf and mileage. the msd 6al - 2 is good or a pertronix 3 system.

high voltage coil like the msd anti vibration type.

a high vacuum intake manifold.

proper timing curve and a vacuum advance will maximize mileage and power and reduce enge temps. this is extremely important.

a stock carb or an aftermarket one with annular boost venturis will imcrease power and mileage. the stock carb has annulars.

running your eng at 192 instead of a lower temp will increase eng life and reduce mileage with a properly jetted carb.
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Yes, camshaft determines firing order. No problem - use your kit. The factory roller cams are more efficient for both power and mileage, but it's not worth eating your flat-tappet cam and buying everything to put a roller in for what you're doing. I would use the kit's flat cam and drive happy.

Is the shop going to modify your original crank for the roller block, or use a later crank and re-balance it?

David

Well I gave them my 68 302 crank and they were going to re-grind 0.010, but this roller block comes with its original crank, and I am assuming they will grind/balance that one instead, espec since i already bought the 10over rob bearings.
 

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Well I gave them my 68 302 crank and they were going to re-grind 0.010, but this roller block comes with its original crank, and I am assuming they will grind/balance that one instead, espec since i already bought the 10over rob bearings.
hello

the roller crank is 50 oz so you need the 40 oz damper and flex plate and the universal bolt pattern on the damper if you plan to run 66 type pullies.
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hello

the roller crank is 50 oz so you need the 50 oz damper and flex plate and the universal bolt pattern on the damper if you plan to run 66 type pullies.
 

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hello

the roller crank is 50 oz so you need the 40 oz damper and flex plate and the universal bolt pattern on the damper if you plan to run 66 type pullies.
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You mean 50oz damper and flexplate.

Now would my 68 crank fit the roller block? That way I would be able to just use my original fmx 28oz flexplate and original balancer/dampener with the 3bolt pulleys?
 

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You mean 50oz damper and flexplate.

Now would my 68 crank fit the roller block? That way I would be able to just use my original fmx 28oz flexplate and original balancer/dampener with the 3bolt pulleys?
the only difference might be the rear seal area. i'm not sure.

if you are building a performance engine, you should not use the stock damper.
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