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Discussion Starter #1
So back in the fall I finally put the clutch and trans on the engine in preparation for final assembly, and ran into a little snag. It got cold and I was busy for quite a while, but now that warm weather is on its way, Id like to know if this clutch linkage is normal. Its a t5z, bellhousing, clutch, and fork all brand new and direct from either FRPP or Tremec, slave from Speedway Motors, and bracket from Daze cars (my wallet shuddered from just typing all that...). The problem is that when I put a bolt in just to see if everything lined up, it sure didnt look right. Has anyone else used an external slave bracket from Daze, and can share a picture? In these pictures the piston is at the end of its stroke (as if the clutch was pushed in), but it didnt look much better when I pushed the piston back to the beginning of its stroke. Am I just missing something obvious, did I get a bum bracket, did I use the wrong slave cylinder????


IMG_5019 by d1802, on Flickr

IMG_5020 by d1802, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hmm... yours seems to be exactly the same. For some reason that just doesnt seem right, but maybe it is. Thanks for the pictures!
 

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the picture on daze site...
does not look like the pushrod is at an angle like you guys....

how about putting a dimple and drill a hole a little further in on cluch fork,
so that pushrod line up better...or lay a fat spacer under slave cylinder...
or if possible weld on a mounting tab to bracket moving slave further out from transmission ....
 

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This is on my 67 Fairlane T-5Z. I used the same bracket but a different slave. No issues after 2 years. Sorry for the angle of the pictures but the trans is in the car.
Kelly
 

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I was going to suggest using the other hole as stated above.

My buddy and I tried to use a CNC slave cyl on his car and on mine, no luck. We never could get enough throw. He bought it and I'm not sure if he bought the correct one?

Either way, we both gave up and went to a Ram Hydraulic throwout bearing. Both of us are still running them with no issues.

Which ever way you go. Make sure to get your braided or hard line routed as far from your headers and exhaust as you can. And slide some kind of heat sheilding wrap over it. Mine was getting hot at 1st and was causing problems.

Jet
 

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You can barely see it in this photo, but I'm running it on the hole closest to the trans, it's still plenty soft. I'm not sure I'd get enough throw on the outer one, it took a bit of preload to get it to release as is. Second that heat shield, the fluid heated up and started to release the clutch on the highway before I had one.

 

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Use what lines-up without binding. If using the "inner hole", dress it lightly with a ball stone or cutter for the rod to seat for smooth movement. Check your throw, and re-size your slave or master if necessary, as different cars have different pedal ratios and master throws - and therefore slave throws. I prefer the Mazda slave (~3/4" bore) but my '69 uses a 5/8" bore CNC for the right throw using the outer hole for best alignment (there are different T5 bells and forks). I run my hydro line over to the upper side or top to avoid header heat. No issues even with the headers glowing orange. :eek:
:tup:
David
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Wow, old thread I forgot all about! Thanks for all the replies! I emailed Daze and he said to use the inner hole. Duh... I was focused on using the outer hole as thats what the cable uses. I may have to go with a smaller slave to get enough throw. How much do I need? I have it all hooked up now, bled the bejeezus out of it, but it still wont disengage. Just for kicks I adjusted some preload into it, and it still doesnt disengage. Ill have to adjust some more into it just to see if I can even get it to disengage at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Ive bled the clutch before, but I used a different method this time, and wouldnt ya know... IT WORKS!
 
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