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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone attempted routing clutch cable through the existing linkage hole, with perhaps a pulley to bring it round to the top of the pedal?
 

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I certainly have not done it or have I seen instance's of it, the problem I forsee in that setup is depending on where you have the cable attached you may not get enough linear movement to actuate the clutch (or rather disengage it) Most of the cable kits have a bracket to create the correct amount of throw for the cable. The original Fox style clutch cables have a fairly large quadrant to do this. I have seen hydraulic setups use that loaction however. Stu

BTW welcome to the board!
 

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If you put a pulley under the dash and had the cable routed from a quadrant on top of the pedal route downward, going uder the pulley then through the hole in the firewall I can see it working.
To mount a quadrant on your pedal you can buy one from Mustang Steve. I made my own, http://falconregistry.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=id_trans;action=display;num=1136494662

with your pulley, you could also use the Z-bar as a cable level. imagin you cable running through the firewall and ending at the top of the z-bar. Then, on the lower arm run a cable to the pull actuated fork. The z-ba ends up moving the opposite direction than designed but still works with the cable typ setup, and, no melting on the headers. This is an Opentracker design by the way.
 

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I used the Ron Morris cable conversion in my '67 Cougar, with an 11" SPEC stage II clutch it is easier on the leg than the stock setup in the '88 GT.
 

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I did on my 65.

In fact I tried three different setups and several pulleys. They all worked, some better than others.

The biggest problem is that you need to use a fairly small diameter pulley that will eventually cause the cable to break due to the tight radius the cable has to make. You can get fine pitch stainless cable from sail boat repair shops and it will work for quite a long time before breaking.

To get the correct amount of pull you need to get the pulley as close to the firewall as possible.

I even made a 2 pulley version. In the end I decided to make a home-brew hydraulic setup and I like it better than the cable setup.

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all you input, you've certainly given me a lot to think about. I think i'm kinda leaning toward the home made hydraulic.
 

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On 2006-12-12 20:41, 67stang wrote:
Google RonMorris Performance. He sells a cable conversion kit that uses the existing hole.
Eek! POS! I wouldn't buy it just because of the design, instead of sliding the cable it slides the shield. This makes it a whole lot less flexible WRT routing options, which are always a problem with a cable setup. Add to that the fact that a replacement cable will be somewhere around $300 WHEN it needs a new one, and that's too much downside to me.

MustangSteve's setup OTOH operates much like the stock foxbody setup and uses a foxbody cable available at Autozone for under 70$ when it breaks.

I'm going Z-bar, it's cheapest for me since I have the parts, it looks right, and I don't have to hack up the car.
 

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Anyone know about the modern driveline stuff? Cable clutch conversion that is? Any good, bad....
 

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I have the modern driveline one for my 73 mustang. It bolts to the firewall right on the brake booster bolt. Then runs down right next to the steering column and through the firewall. I dont have the engine in yet, but so far it seems great. Now i just have to route it around my headers.
 

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FYI

The home-brew setup I made for my 65 also uses low cost factory parts:
M/C from a E350 van, and a slave from a Cheby Pickup.
The M/C is barely visible because its below the brake M/C using the original hole for the mechanical linkage.

Originally I used a bracket similar to the one shown in the detailed explanation above, but I had to change that when I converted to a G-Force case, because the stronger case does not have the mounting tabs that a stock T5 case has.

The great thing about the hydraulic setup is that it's self adjusting. I found I was forever adjusting the cable setup as the cable stretched
 

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On 2006-12-14 16:36, biff126 wrote:
I found this neat link i when I was searching Ron Morris. This guy's got it all figured out. Better and cheaper. http://home.comcast.net/~grabblue65/Hyd_Clutch.pdf
Biff your post should win an award!

That guys pdf is awesome. I've seen bits and pieces of that swap but to have it all there with P/N is great! Thanks! Stu
 

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Hands down the Ron Morris cable clutch is the way to go. I've done Z bar, hydraulic and cable in Mustangs running T-5 trannys I wouldn't trade my cable for anything, even an automatic. (Automatics are for Girls anyway) JMO!!
 

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I built my own, I extended the pedal to give the same leverage as a fox body, there was just enough room to do this. The cable goes through a hole I cut in the bulkhead, this system works very well so far.
 

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I have the Modern Driveline cable clutch setup in my '68 Coupe. So far, so good. I have stock manifolds now, but am shopping around for a pair of longtube headers.

The FAQ at Modern Driveline says the Hedman 88660 will fit. But, they're technically for the 351W which has a taller deck. I'm afraid they will hang down too low. The Doug Thorley Tri-y's & Hooker Super Comps are also supposed to fit, but are a bit pricey.

Does anyone know of a lower cost 289 longtube header that will clear the Modern Driveline cable?

Mike

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: 68Mike on 2/16/07 5:05am ]</font>
 

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I went with the homebrew hydraulic setup, except instead of drilling the clutch pedal I fabricated a bracket. Make a C channel by welding together two pieces of angle iron. Drill a hole in that C channel and bolt it to the pedal arm using the original hole. Then weld a nut to the bracket and put a bolt or a threaded rod in there. You can then slide on your heim joint and use a few jam nuts to hold it. I am hoping the next guy will do this instead of drilling up another clutch pedal.
 
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