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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have seen several hydraulic clutch kits for the foxbody 5.0 with CNC slave but not come across one for the SN95. The foxbody kit will not work since the clutch fork is at a different angle.

Has anyone converted a 94-95 5.0 V8 or a 3.8 V6 with T5 to an external slave hydraulic clutch ?

What external slave did you use ?

What master cylinder ?

One thing concerns me is that the SN95 clutch fork is longer than the foxbody. It would be nice to use off the shelf OEM type components. I know the guys with Mazda Miata with 5.0 uses the stock Mazda slave which looks just like the high end CNC slave but at fraction of the cost. The Miata Slave is on $15 on Rock Auto.


Thanks


Waid
 

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I have a 98 V6 T5 (with some mods to use a mechanical speedo) in my 65 Falcon running a 7/8" slave (Speedway Motors) and Willwood 3/4" mc. I had to fab up my own brackets for the slave and shortened the factory clutch fork by 1" to clear the headers. Been driving it for 6 months now without issue.

I did the same setup on my 66 Mustang coupe but went with the hyd. bearing that Jetfixr suggested. I haven't finished the car so I can't say if I like it better/worse than the Falcon. Both cars are running 95 V8 bell housings.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Here is the update.

I drilled a hole on the bell housing and looks like the Mazda Miata Slave might work with it. The clutch fork on SN95 is longer but the location of the slave puts it further in on the fork compared to fox so I think it would be fine. The guys with Mazda Miata have been using this setup for years with foxbody T5 & bell housing. The Miata slave has a little tip which is perfect. All I need to do is drill a small hole on the fork and a custom bracket.

As far as the Master is concerned, I believe I need one from a 1986 Toyota Land Curiser which has 3/4" bore and its the largest one you get get that is OEM. I bought the 1991 Miata slave for $17 and the 1986 Totota Land Cruiser Master for $13 from Rock Auto. If it works, not for hydraulic clutch for less than $50

Oh, this is the V6 bell housing which I will be using with my 5.0. And YES it does work with the smaller 5.0 flywheel. I will post a write up as to how to make the mod.!!!

Waid
 

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I like that idea! Keep us updated, I'm going to be doing this again soon in my brother's 64 Falcon and the drilled holed definitely gives more exhaust clearance. What mods did you have to do to get the 5.0 flywheel to work in the V6 bell?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That is the million doller question. There are a lot of nay sayers who has never tried it. I have a spare block & a crank and I bolted the smaller 5.0 flywheel and managed to crank it. Granted that there is no load on the motor from the compression but it worked. Will post some picture onec all mods is confirmed with running motor.

Waid
 

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Nay-sayers have no room here. There is no reason it cannot work, and only needs adjustment of the cylinder bore ratios for proper throw. Also, there are a number of slave cylinders that bolt through the face rather than the side, which would make mounting a breeze. Did you read the other thread from last month about this same issue and their solution?

BTW - While I prefer external slave cylinders, there are a number of stock T5 concentric slave cylinders out there, like T-Birds and Volvos. That may be another option, and I've heard certain combinations retrofit easily.

David
 

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Discussion Starter #9
You are correct. I am looking at best fit / throw and easy mount as the SN95 bell housing makes it hard since its at really bad angle !
 

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LOTS of choices for face-mount slaves in the 7/8"+ and 22mm+ sizes. Jeep Wrangler, C1500, VW Beetle, etc. Take a look at the '93-'97 Isuzu Rodeo 3.2L slave for an example. $8.32 at RockAuto. I buy and return "fit-up" parts locally, then order the permanent part online if there's a huge price difference. I buy a lot from the locals, and they don't mind the occasional return in exchange for more of my business.
;)
David

Check the angles for mounting. I don't know your final pedal/MC bore/fork ratio/slave bore sizes, but I'm guessing around .825-.900 bore for the slave:

 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I already ahead of you!

The best place to search is eBay. I just typed "Isuzu Clutch Slave Cylinder" and almost every one of them came up. After doing this type of search, I actually did find a 1991 Isuzu with 3.1 V6 Slave. It was used with a T5 which makes it all the better. I know this for fact because I saw an Isuzu with a T5 at pic-a-part and it had an unique tail shaft. Isuzu did change their manual transmission from T5 to another in later years and this is why the slave changed.
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Of all of the slaves I have seen so far, the 1991 Isuzu with 3.1 V6 & BW T5 is the most promising as the bleed screw is on the top. Going to pick up one from Autozone.
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Waid

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Cool. Don't let the bleed location bother you. I prefer to bleed slaves up in the engine compartment above the clutch MC anyway. Hey - it's on a hose. ;) Push the pedal and block it depressed with a stick or brick (remember there's no clutch pressure), then open the bleeder and push the slave piston back in. One stroke bleeding. Bolt it on ready to rock.

David
 

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I was just wondering if you had any luck any the Rodeo hydraulic setup. I'm putting a T5 in my 64 Comet, but I've realized the headers I have won't allow for a cable setup.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
I have not made much progress with my car. There are lots of options for clutch master and slave. Most OEM clutch master are 5/8" bore with slave that has bore of 3/4" for less pedal effort. The clutch pedal and the fork are sized properly and everything works fine. In attempting to convert cable clutch to pedal, its better to use little larger bore clutch master to get little extra stroke on the clutch fork. I was going to use the Miata Slave but the clutch fork would stick out and will have to make special bracket.

It's a shame that Ford never used hydraulic clutch setup. GM used it for a long time with S10 and so did Isuzu with a T5. The 1991-1992 Isuzu Rodeo with GM's 3.1 V6, AutoZone #10595 ($23) has a bore of 3/4" and the bleeder hole that is on top. Since it is a flange mount, there is no need for a bracket. I am also planning to cut off the clutch fork end so the fork is completely in the inside the bell housing and nothing is sticking out. This slave has a 12mm port.

For clutch master cylinder, I bought a 1985-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser which has a bore of 3/4" from Rock Auto for $15! From what I found, only Toyota uses larger 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder. I did some measuring and this master is a perfect fit. Because the Falcon has a bend in the firewall, it is easier to mount a master cylinder with an angle flange mount instead of the straight up and down flange mount. The Toyota Master will mount just like the Mazda 626 Master (5/8" bore) as it was done for the 4-speed. See the link below. When I get ready, I will post some pics.

For the slave you can use Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4057C which is 12mm Banjo, Male -3 AN. For the slave use Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4047C which is 10mm Banjo, Male -3 AN. From Summit you can get Keyser Manufacturing Braided Steel Brake Lines 100-430036 that is 36" long.

http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs/hydraulic_clutch_conversion.pdf


Clutch Master Cylinder: 1985-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser
AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # M1618
DORMAN Part # CM39627
AISIN Part # CMT032
WAGNER Part # CM126625

Clutch Slave Cylinder: 1991-1992 Isuzu Rodeo 3.1 V6
AutoZone #10595
DORMAN Part # CS360032
AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # S0909
WAGNER Part # SC124283
Centric Parts 138.43009


My Cost
Clutch Master: $15
Clutch Slave: $23
Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4057C $8.95
Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4047C $5.95
Keyser Manufacturing Braided Steel Brake Lines 100-430036 $14.99

Total Cost $68 !!!
 

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I have not made much progress with my car. There are lots of options for clutch master and slave. Most OEM clutch master are 5/8" bore with slave that has bore of 3/4" for less pedal effort. The clutch pedal and the fork are sized properly and everything works fine. In attempting to convert cable clutch to pedal, its better to use little larger bore clutch master to get little extra stroke on the clutch fork. I was going to use the Miata Slave but the clutch fork would stick out and will have to make special bracket.

It's a shame that Ford never used hydraulic clutch setup. GM used it for a long time with S10 and so did Isuzu with a T5. The 1991-1992 Isuzu Rodeo with GM's 3.1 V6, AutoZone #10595 ($23) has a bore of 3/4" and the bleeder hole that is on top. Since it is a flange mount, there is no need for a bracket. I am also planning to cut off the clutch fork end so the fork is completely in the inside the bell housing and nothing is sticking out. This slave has a 12mm port.

For clutch master cylinder, I bought a 1985-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser which has a bore of 3/4" from Rock Auto for $15! From what I found, only Toyota uses larger 3/4" bore clutch master cylinder. I did some measuring and this master is a perfect fit. Because the Falcon has a bend in the firewall, it is easier to mount a master cylinder with an angle flange mount instead of the straight up and down flange mount. The Toyota Master will mount just like the Mazda 626 Master (5/8" bore) as it was done for the 4-speed. See the link below. When I get ready, I will post some pics.

For the slave you can use Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4057C which is 12mm Banjo, Male -3 AN. For the slave use Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4047C which is 10mm Banjo, Male -3 AN. From Summit you can get Keyser Manufacturing Braided Steel Brake Lines 100-430036 that is 36" long.

http://www.cometeastcarclub.org/PDFs/hydraulic_clutch_conversion.pdf


Clutch Master Cylinder: 1985-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser
AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # M1618
DORMAN Part # CM39627
AISIN Part # CMT032
WAGNER Part # CM126625

Clutch Slave Cylinder: 1991-1992 Isuzu Rodeo 3.1 V6
AutoZone #10595
DORMAN Part # CS360032
AMS AUTOMOTIVE Part # S0909
WAGNER Part # SC124283
Centric Parts 138.43009


My Cost
Clutch Master: $15
Clutch Slave: $23
Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4057C $8.95
Russell Brake Adapter Fittings R4047C $5.95
Keyser Manufacturing Braided Steel Brake Lines 100-430036 $14.99

Total Cost $68 !!!
Waid,

Can you measure the stroke of the slave and master above?
 

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Okay, I know this is a super old thread but it has been a wealth of information to me. I plan on converting the crappy auto with reverse manual valve body over to the T5. I don't see any follow up info on how it worked. I'm assuming it went well or stalled out. I'd like to know if the Toyota stuff worked or not. I know that the Chevy S-10 has a similar slave/slave master on it and wonder if that would work as is straight from that vehicle. I see that PSIG has done this before and would like to know what parts you have used in the past. Great info on this thread!!!
 

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I ended up using a Wilwood master and a slave from a Mazda Miata. I fabricated my own mounts, line and linkages. It took a bit of figuring, but it worked out great. I made both the master and slave linkages adjustable, set them where I thought they should be, bled the air, and it worked perfectly right off the bat.

I tried getting a Landcruiser master but it was backordered at my local parts store, but they were able to get the Wilwood master. I wanted to stay with easily obtainable parts in case I ever had trouble.
 

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Interesting information thank you for sharing it. What vehicle did you put it in?
 

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... I know that the Chevy S-10 has a similar slave/slave master on it and wonder if that would work as is straight from that vehicle. I see that PSIG has done this before and would like to know what parts you have used in the past. Great info on this thread!!!
The S-10 master and slave combo could work well, but the primary question is how far out on the fork the slave is pushing. In other words - if you have the slave push where the old cable used to connect, the master and slave bore ratio would be different than if the slave was pushing further in, closer to the throwout bearing. A master or slave bore relationship too large or small could over- or under-travel the fork.

Not a big deal at all though, with a little figuring. Having already done that a few times, M:S ratios when pushing at the fork cable point is about .7:1, and if pushing through the rear of the bell is around .55:1. Hang-in with me for a moment...

So, an example of the first one is a push slave mounted outside the bell, pushing on the old cable connection hole. Given the typical pedal travel at clutch rod pin, and the necessary travel of the fork to work right, the ratio is about .7:1. This means for every inch the master is pressed by the pedal, the slave should move about .7 inch. To get that approximate ratio, I have used a 5/8" bore master, and a 3/4" bore slave. Note we are simply trying to achieve the necessary ratio to match pedal travel (master) with fork travel (slave). So, I could have also used other stuff like a 13/16" master and a 1" slave to get close.

This is why I say there are 101 ways to do it, and you can use all kinds of masters and slaves that will fit, and it will still work fine if the ratio is reasonably close. The S-10 pair (11/16" master and 15/16" slave) could work well at about .54:1 if the slave is conveniently mounted in the rear of the bell through a hole, pushing closer to the centerline. Does that help? If you measure your clutch pedal pin throw, and decide where you want to push on the fork, we can figure the ratio and find masters and slaves to match.
:D:tup:
David
 
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