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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
All,
1966 galaxie 7 litre vert.
I just rebuilt my motor and don’t like the dummy lights in the dash. Don’t want to over heat or not know if I loose oil pressure. So I want to add electric oil and temp gauges in the least intrusive way possible.
Going for total stock in the restoration and don’t want to cut wiring, drill holes or make these changes that cannot be undone. Whom ever buys this car after me can do what they want with these changes. Put it back to stock, leave the changes or leave them so they can see temp and oil pressure.
is It possible to have dummy lights and two new gauges working at same time???
I need some ideas of choices on the gauges too. Also, looking for electrical gauges not mechanical. So far, I am looking at this SW gauge


and this one for oil


I was thinking maybe a fold down bracket for bottom of dash. That way I could fold up and not see it at shows???
Any ideas?

thanks
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All,
1966 galaxie 7 litre vert.
I just rebuilt my motor and don’t like the dummy lights in the dash. Don’t want to over heat or not know if I loose oil pressure. So I want to add electric oil and temp gauges in the least intrusive way possible.
Going for total stock in the restoration and don’t want to cut wiring, drill holes or make these changes that cannot be undone. Whom ever buys this car after me can do what they want with these changes. Put it back to stock, leave the changes or leave them so they can see temp and oil pressure.
is It possible to have dummy lights and two new gauges working at same time???
I need some ideas of choices on the gauges too. Also, looking for electrical gauges not mechanical. So far, I am looking at this SW gauge


and this one for oil


I was thinking maybe a fold down bracket for bottom of dash. That way I could fold up and not see it at shows???
Any ideas?

thanks View attachment 172189
Hello JIM4,

I have a few thoughts for you to consider. First on the oil pressure gauge and light that's easily doable. All you need is a Tee junction on the oil filter housing oil feed port to house both the original switch sender for the lamp and the oil pressure transducer for the electric gauge.

The temperature lamps and gauge will be a bit more tricky as there is only one real good port on the intake to put a sensor in the constantly circulating coolant. Since you have a heater only car you have coolant flow through your heater core at all times (unlike factory air con cars) you could rig one of the senders in line with the heater core but that's probably going to look bad.

I don't know what your expertise level is in electronics but you could use the S&W gauge sender in the original coolant switch port in the intake and then monitor that variable gauge voltage by means of high impedance comparators and set the trip points on the comparators for the COLD and HOT lamps so thier functionality is retained. With this method you could adjust the trip points and know what temperature the HOT and COLD lamps turn on and off. Of course you'll need a little hysteresis built in to the comparators and that's easy enough.

Just ideas.

Cheers
 

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Hello JIM4,

I have a few thoughts for you to consider. First on the oil pressure gauge and light that's easily doable. All you need is a Tee junction on the oil filter housing oil feed port to house both the original switch sender for the lamp and the oil pressure transducer for the electric gauge.

The temperature lamps and gauge will be a bit more tricky as there is only one real good port on the intake to put a sensor in the constantly circulating coolant. Since you have a heater only car you have coolant flow through your heater core at all times (unlike factory air con cars) you could rig one of the senders in line with the heater core but that's probably going to look bad.

I don't know what your expertise level is in electronics but you could use the S&W gauge sender in the original coolant switch port in the intake and then monitor that variable gauge voltage by means of high impedance comparators and set the trip points on the comparators for the COLD and HOT lamps so thier functionality is retained. With this method you could adjust the trip points and know what temperature the HOT and COLD lamps turn on and off. Of course you'll need a little hysteresis built in to the comparators and that's easy enough.

Just ideas.

Cheers
All,
1966 galaxie 7 litre vert.
I just rebuilt my motor and don’t like the dummy lights in the dash. Don’t want to over heat or not know if I loose oil pressure. So I want to add electric oil and temp gauges in the least intrusive way possible.
Going for total stock in the restoration and don’t want to cut wiring, drill holes or make these changes that cannot be undone. Whom ever buys this car after me can do what they want with these changes. Put it back to stock, leave the changes or leave them so they can see temp and oil pressure.
is It possible to have dummy lights and two new gauges working at same time???
I need some ideas of choices on the gauges too. Also, looking for electrical gauges not mechanical. So far, I am looking at this SW gauge


and this one for oil


I was thinking maybe a fold down bracket for bottom of dash. That way I could fold up and not see it at shows???
Any ideas?

thanks View attachment 172189
This is what I did and my dummy gauges still work also. If you wanted to take the gauges back off, just unscrew the bracket. The mounting holes are on the bottom lip of the dash and don't show. As I recall one of the bracket mounting holes was already in position from the factory.
Car Motor vehicle Vehicle Steering wheel Steering part
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Hello JIM4,

I have a few thoughts for you to consider. First on the oil pressure gauge and light that's easily doable. All you need is a Tee junction on the oil filter housing oil feed port to house both the original switch sender for the lamp and the oil pressure transducer for the electric gauge.

The temperature lamps and gauge will be a bit more tricky as there is only one real good port on the intake to put a sensor in the constantly circulating coolant. Since you have a heater only car you have coolant flow through your heater core at all times (unlike factory air con cars) you could rig one of the senders in line with the heater core but that's probably going to look bad.

I don't know what your expertise level is in electronics but you could use the S&W gauge sender in the original coolant switch port in the intake and then monitor that variable gauge voltage by means of high impedance comparators and set the trip points on the comparators for the COLD and HOT lamps so thier functionality is retained. With this method you could adjust the trip points and know what temperature the HOT and COLD lamps turn on and off. Of course you'll need a little hysteresis built in to the comparators and that's easy enough.

Just ideas.

Cheers
Desert, thanks for the input. As always spot on. My knowledge of electronics is learned OTJ, not school trained. So, maybe you could pick out a comparator for me to purchase (It’s past my knowledge). I really like that idea, adjusting when my dummy light turn off and on based on temps. How would I connect this setup and where would I put the extra electronics? I assume it’s like a potentiometer?

thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is what I did and my dummy gauges still work also. If you wanted to take the gauges back off, just unscrew the bracket. The mounting holes are on the bottom lip of the dash and don't show. As I recall one of the bracket mounting holes was already in position from the factory.
View attachment 172191
Fordwillie,
I think that is the plan. They look really good there, factory almost. So how did you hook up the gauges and keep the dummy lights working? I think 64 and 66 wiring are similar if not the same. Thanks again, really looks good.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You probably don't want to do what I did..... ;)

View attachment 172192

But for a removable gauge panel without drilling holes,
you can get some small thumb screw clamps to hold the panel to the dash.
Galaxiex,
I do not want to place them on the console. Only because of factory restoration needs and wants. Although I do really like that location too. It seems the perfect place to glance at them. They look race ready and the angle, just right. I love the small thumb screw idea too. That might make the cut.
 

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As DesertXL mentioned, you can get an in-line adapter to use a sensor for the coolant temperature. First pic is that type of set up which is installed directly in the heater hose. Second and third pic is what I'm using now. I drilled and tapped one end of the fitting to accept the sender and threaded into the intake manifold. Both ways allowed me to use an electronic gauge and keep the original light.

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Household hardware Wood Font Auto part Cylinder
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
As DesertXL mentioned, you can get an in-line adapter to use a sensor for the coolant temperature. First pic is that type of set up which is installed directly in the heater hose. Second and third pic is what I'm using now. I drilled and tapped one end of the fitting to accept the sender and threaded into the intake manifold. Both ways allowed me to use an electronic gauge and keep the original light.

View attachment 172196 View attachment 172197 View attachment 172198
289galaxie,
Don‘t you just love American ingenuity. So smart, yet so simple. Now just need to decide which way. Thanks for the thoughts.
 

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Desert, thanks for the input. As always spot on. My knowledge of electronics is learned OTJ, not school trained. So, maybe you could pick out a comparator for me to purchase (It’s past my knowledge). I really like that idea, adjusting when my dummy light turn off and on based on temps. How would I connect this setup and where would I put the extra electronics? I assume it’s like a potentiometer?

thanks again.
Hello JIM4,

Everyone has really good alternatives offered to run both sets of transducers (one for lamps and one for gauges). Another side quick note is since you're using all electric gauges (which is a great idea), you can just put them all on a plug and quickly disconnect them and remove them when you want to.

How the above idea negates the possibility of using an electronic adjustable interface to operate your COLD and HOT lamps as the aftermarket temperature gauge when unplugged would really shift the input signal to the comparators input for the lamps.

If you leave all the gauges connected just find a way to fold them out of the way, then building a small electronic switching system for the dash temperature lamps is possible.

Here's a link to a good comparator that would work in this application, Mouser does have it in stock https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nisshinbo/NJM2903DQ?qs=7jPOr0kCrUCnUTKFtv3DGA==

If you need help with the basic schematic outline for some simple ESD, reverse polarity protection, etc, I'll be happy to help. You won't be able to pick all the value parts till you receive your electric temperature gauge and take some measurements over the range of it's operation as the variable voltage range the sender will alter is ultimately determined by the gauge itself.

Cheers
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hello JIM4,

Everyone has really good alternatives offered to run both sets of transducers (one for lamps and one for gauges). Another side quick note is since you're using all electric gauges (which is a great idea), you can just put them all on a plug and quickly disconnect them and remove them when you want to.

How the above idea negates the possibility of using an electronic adjustable interface to operate your COLD and HOT lamps as the aftermarket temperature gauge when unplugged would really shift the input signal to the comparators input for the lamps.

If you leave all the gauges connected just find a way to fold them out of the way, then building a small electronic switching system for the dash temperature lamps is possible.

Here's a link to a good comparator that would work in this application, Mouser does have it in stock https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nisshinbo/NJM2903DQ?qs=7jPOr0kCrUCnUTKFtv3DGA==

If you need help with the basic schematic outline for some simple ESD, reverse polarity protection, etc, I'll be happy to help. You won't be able to pick all the value parts till you receive your electric temperature gauge and take some measurements over the range of it's operation as the variable voltage range the sender will alter is ultimately determined by the gauge itself.

Cheers
access denied on the link you sent me to. HTTPS so I think you were signed in to Mouser.
thanks again DesertXL
 

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You also can purchase a later style thermostat housing that has a pipe thread plug for the emissions system used on most FEs from the late 60s on for a place to add the temperature sender. I have remotely located the oil pressure sender with a steel braid hose which also grounds the sender because of space limitations.
 

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I've used those fitting adapters on coolant hoses to run electric fans before, it's clean and easy to replace the coolant hose if you want to remove it.

For the oil pressure sender, I plan on using this for my 289 while I do the build on my 390

oil fitting extension

I like the SW gauges...they "feel" very 60s to me. Their reliability seems to be somewhat suspect in reviews lately, but I always take those with a grain of salt.

I am likely going with this series in my 65:
Speedometer Odometer Gauge Trip computer Motor vehicle


I think this brand matches the aesthetic the best (New Vintage USA), but they have pretty bad reviews, too, particularly with visibility when mounted under the dash:
Gauge Motor vehicle Measuring instrument Font Auto part
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks Kenny and Darkar,
both good ideas and info. Does anyone know if the SW gauge will work with the factory sending unit? Or does it have to be SW one too?

thanks

JIM
 

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I always go with new senders whenever possible if I install aftermarket gauges. The frequencies the stock senders work at may just be slightly off from the ones the gauge would use. And if I'm putting in gauges for this purpose, I want them to be as accurate as possible 😉
 
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