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I quite like the comparator idea for running the Hot/Cold light off the same sensor as the gauge...
Hello galaxiex,

For those who would like to do just that and not have another gauge set, I would recommend using the standard GM coolant sensor as it's used in abundance and has the same thread size as the Ford original COLD/HOT temperature switch.

Cheers
 

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Thanks Kenny and Darkar,
both good ideas and info. Does anyone know if the SW gauge will work with the factory sending unit? Or does it have to be SW one too?

thanks

JIM
Hello JIM4,

The factory sending units on the Fords with indicator lamps are just switches (either on or off). The electric oil and temperature gauge require a sender that varies its resistance with pressure (oil) or temperature (coolant). That way a voltage divider is set up between the gauge and the sender and a variable voltage depending on the sensor can vary the gauge in a similar way your fuel sender works. Although your fuel sender is an electric-thermal gauge and not electromagnetic like most aftermarket electric gauges.

As a side note the only automotive device that I'm currently aware of that use frequency are the newer mass airflow sensors (MAF) they have such a wide range it's hard to use a 0-5 volt reference signal with enough resolution to accurately convey to the ECU the correct airflow. Although the early MAF's were dual range analog voltage for more resolution on the lower end.

I hope that helps some.

Cheers
 

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I think you read too much into the word "frequency". The gauge senders work on a "range". Factory senders typically have different ranges (when they aren't "on/off" switches), and thus won't work properly with aftermarket gauges. Frequencies, temp ranges, ohms, whatever...you get the gist.

Any of those don't line up directly with the gauge specs, and they will read too high, too low, not a full sweep, stuck at a fixed level, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I just got my gauges and still need to figure out the placement of the gauges. Anyone thought of a rally pack like a 66 Shelby. I could mount it easy and remove it if needed. Not sure about viewing the gauges while driving though. Any thoughts???

Speedometer Odometer Motor vehicle Light Gauge
 

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I've had gauges on a steering column before (and my tach sits there now, too). For gauges you don't need to see that often, it's no big deal. A quick glance here or there is no big deal. But for a tach, speedo, or watching gauges when you suspect a problem it can become a pain, imo. And for the switches behind the gauges, it tends to get annoying to reach behind them.

Why would you want to remove it? Just to keep the gauges if you sell the car or to relocate them if you don't like how they look?
 

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This is my set up On my 63 Galaxie. I replaced the temp sensor and installed an extension on the oil pressure sensor. So I still have the stock oil pressure light sensor and a mechanical gauge and the in car gauge sensor.
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The voltage comparator is straightforward for using one sensor to operate two functions (gauge and light).(y) While not a typical user solution, I prefer to use a cheap micro-controller, e.g., Arduino or PIC, etc, to take whatever signal I can get, and transform that into whatever functions I want.

For example, I used an Arduino Nano ($3 online) and a power transistor ($0.50) to make a multi-function alternator light. At "normal" voltage the light is dark as-usual, but at lower voltage it glows incrementally brighter, and if over-voltage (15V) it flashes rapidly. More info from a simple light. Making an on/off, or fade-in, or flash-faster-when-hotter dash light for temperature from a single gauge sender is a relatively easy task, with or without a gauge. Just mentioning alternative options. Do your thing! :cool:
 

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That's a cool repro tach! I was trying to find a classic one that matched my '65 but so many of them don't work properly anymore, so I went with a "rocket tach" from Classic Instruments.

I'm putting a 3 gauge cluster in like you did this summer, just can't decide what gauges I want yet.


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That's cool the way you flipped that 3-gauge bracket over. Great idea. Do you have any visibility issues with them being mounted that low? I'm sure at a quick glance you can check the status of things, just may have to lean a bit to get a closer look, if needed.
 

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Racers and aviators have rotated their gauges for quick checking for a very long time. You can rotate the gauge so "normal" is straight up or down, allowing you to check if everything is "OK" with only a glance, as you don't have to read the numbers or remember where they should each be pointing. Are all the needles straight up? Yes. I'm good.
 

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I am familiar with gauge rotation, I've done it on many of my cars, particularly a Volvo I rallied. I learned quickly what I need to look at, where it needs to be, and acquiring that info in a split second.

So it's not the rotation of the gauges was asking about, it is the visibility in that specific location. The "flipping" I mentioned was the bracket. That looks like a standard 3-gauge panel that was flipped over for that location, and I like the idea.
 

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There were no visibility issues whatsoever until I put new foam and upholstery on my front seats about a month ago. Now my head is about an inch from touching the roof of the car. That is affecting more than just the gauges though. I can modify the gauge housing easily to angle the gauges for better visibility. Clocking the gauges so the needles point straight up for normal operating range was also a consideration. I know the theory, I installed flight controls for about 10 years. I'll probably get around to addressing the gauge issue after I get the rear seat upholstery done and stitch a leather cover on the steering wheel.
 

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I used the ”low fuel & door ajar “ console to mount the din satellite radio with a 1.5“ temperature & oil pressure gauges to fill the outer void. Also keep the OBD scanner connected.
I have the same gauges and found they were too large in diameter for the original console housing. I ended up fabricating my own housing by heating textured plastic and bending it around a wood form I made. I have an automatic transmission but would think the housing is the same as yours. Wonder why there's a difference here.
 
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