Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
This adventure starts with a 1965 Ford Custom (AKA Baby Huey)(a Custom is a Galaxie that is a base model, not all the bells and whistles-that's a Galaxie, this is the cheapo sold at the dealer) that only had 73,000 miles on the odometer. The MSRP for the car was $2,623(according to info on the web) and there were only 181,183 Ford Customs built in 1965. I got this car for 1200 bucks on Craigslist. When I got it it ran but had some proplems. The gas tank was rusted inside and needed to be cleaned. I put a five gallon gas can in the fenderwell, Put the fuel line from the fuel pump into the can and drove it home without incident. When I got home I looked in the glove box and there were reciepts from 1990-1993 in there for the car. This was an archive! I scanned them in my computer so I would not lose them with fading ink. Name on reciepts was Marilyn Walder, then Marilym Wilhelm (did she get married??). Also George Wattering (a relative?). All the work done locally in Tucson. When I get my title I'll ask for a search and see if I get any additional information.





Well, after alot of looking around I decided that I was going to rebuild this carburator instead of buying a new one. (New was over 200 bucks and rebuild kit about 25). I did not want my wife to be angry with me about spending this amount of money so I opted for the rebuild approach. I looked everywhere to find information on this carb. It is a Ford Autolite 1100 1bbl carb and I even found a few videos on You Tube showing how to tear this sucker apart and put it together. So after watching all the videos and pouring over the diagrams I decided to go at it!! I ordered the rebuild kit and watched the mail. Finally the day came and it arrived. I poured over the instructions while sitting in the living room while my wife played with her laptop computer. I was going to make this thing work if it killed me. I decided that this Saturday I would tackle this monster!!


 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,338 Posts
That's a clean old gal:) Welcome to FM!

haven't been in Tucson in a long time (1990) Pima air museum was neat( the blackbird in the desert sun had to be 200 degrees, even 10 feet away the heat radiating off it was intense) still got some family in sahaurita...

Amazing how gentle the arid climate is to metal stuff...here in Ohio, cars can be rusted thru in 5 yrs if not kept clean, by 10 even cared for ones usually are showing salt damage somewhere...look at the frame pics in the 'saving a 65' link under the pic...ours was beyond rotted out...

I got some Colorado parts on ours, incredibly clean cars there too - here by the time most cars hit the junkyards there's not much left unbeaten by slt, unless its a late model wreck- even those bolts will be rusty/ break- off tight...couldn't believe the 65 control arm bolts from the donor in Colorado came out easy- no 'cheater pipe' or heat needed...Ohio salt sucks if you do anything under a car here...

What are your plans for it?

Tim ( from Tucson long ago...)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks FEandGoingBroke. Got the Rebuild Instrucsions here:

Ford F1 Carburetor Rebuilding Instructions

Also I was thinking that it was a rebuild since it had a few nylon parts on it!! There was not a carb tag on it so as far as I know it could be off a much later car too. That's a problem here in Tucson. The motors wear out much faster than the bodies. All the rubber dries and cracks too!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Tim ( from Tucson long ago...), The Air and Space Museum is still here. The best thing about Tucson is how easy it is on metal. No salt, little rain. The paint is origional as I can tell. I'll post a bunch of pics underneath for you. I saw what you went through with your frame and am very happy I don't have to do that. I haven't welded since 1980!!. Primer still on bottom and no rust!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, ScottURNot, I think I got a good deal. Not sure if I want to restore or Put an old FE in it. Funds are a concern either way. I want a driver and I understand these 6cyl's are pretty much bulletproof!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
FEandGoingBroke. Those are the after pics. Guess I wasn't very clear. I don't have a before pic. Only one of the carb leaking on the manifold:



I got all my tools and parts cleaner out, took the carburator off the motor while observing very carefully where each part was connected and what screws/bolts went where and soaked the carb for about 20-30 minutes in my Carburator cleaner that had been sitting on the shelf of my garage for about 15 years. Then I rinsed it off with hot water like the instruction said to do. I sat down and took this beast apart (yes I had to put on my glasses). You would not believe how many pieces are in a small little carburator!!! I carefully laid out the pieces on an old metal baking sheet. Then I cleaned each part and replaced gaskets, float valve, power valve, spark arrestor valve and numerous small checkballs/springs and such along with assorted linkages and bellcranks. All these parts were meticulously cleaned and carefully placed back together in a cohesive manner. The piece actually resembled the picture of a fully assembled unit when I was done and all the parts seemed to move well and not bind on each other. I then reinstalled the carburator on the engine, hooked up all the lines and double-checked for good measure. Would this thing start up??
I hopped in the car and put the key in the ignition. I turned the key to the accessory position and all the lights came on in the dash as they were supposed to. Now my heart was racing--did I do this right, did I set this thing right, are all the screws tight, all adjustments made properly? I turned the key and the engine started to crank. It took about 15-20 seconds for the fuel pump to fill the empty carburator fuel bowl and VROOOOOOOOOOOM--IT STARTED!!!! I let it idle for a few seconds and got out of the car. I did some fine adjustments on the carburator to set the idle speed and adjusted the primary metering screw along with the Automatic Choke. It ran like a top!!! I was stoked!! I ran inside and told my wife and my 12 year old Granddaughter to come out and see this wonderfull thing!!! They looked at it and said "yeah it looks like it runs". I just could not get my family to acknowledge that I just rebuilt an almost 50 year old carburator and it ran!! And ran well to boot!! Needless to say they were not impressed. I still to this day do not see why women are not impressed with the males ability do do all things mechanical......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
406 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Okay, now on to the brakes. The Jelly Jar M/C has got to go. Need redundancy in the system and don't want any failures. Safety First!! This is what I've got so far whine searching the site and reading the Service Manual:

To upgrade master cyl from "Jelly Jar" to Dual Chamber with DRUM BRAKES I needed the following: (from A/Z-Oreilly, 1967 Gal/manual drums)

1. Cardone Master Cyl # 10-1485
17.99 at Oreilly. This is a stock Master Cyl that comes with the correct
Brake Pedal Rod and has two seperate chambers. One for Front and one
for Rear Brakes. It comes with a spring type retainer for the fluid chamber
cover.

OR
1. Fenco Master Cyl # 10-1485
16.99 at Autozone. Same as the Cardone but has a Bolt that holds the Fluid
chamber cover on. This appears to be stock. But I have no idea if older Galaxies came this way.

both have identical Specs:
1 inch Bore Dia
Primary 0.5" X 20 thread
Secondary 0.5625" X 18 (9/16in) thread
Am I correct in assuming the PRIMARY chamber is for the FRONT Brakes?
Both come with the correct brake pedal rod
Either should be a bolt on

2. All brake line connections on my car are 3/8 X 24 thread, so I will need:
-0.5" X 20 Male to 3/8 X 24 Female reducer for the Front brake connection
at the Master Cyl (I currently have one on my "Jelly Jar" master cyl and can use my existing line to the distribution block). Or a premade brake line with these fittings. (I don't even want to try do do the "double flare" thing) I am guessing I need it about 14 inches long (that is the length of the line that now goes to the "Jelly Jar" from the distribution block and it has enough bends in it to fit the new Master cyl's side ports instead of the front port on the "Jelly Jar").
-3/8 X 24 Plug to put in the distribution block where the REAR brake line was attached
-A brake line for the rear brake connection that is the same length and has a
0.5625" X 18 connector on one end (to connect to Master cyl) and a 3/8 X 24
connection on the other end. I will use a 3/8 X 24 female/female union to connect the
rear brake line from the Master cyl to the brake line disconnected from the distribution
block.

I would like to keep a stock appearance so which Master cyl did a 67 come with? The one with a bolt on the top or a spring loaded latch? The bolt on one looks cool but is a little harder to open/take off.
Am I correct in how to hook the lines up? Does Primary mean FRONT brakes?

Oh here's a pic of the lovely brake fluid I got out of the rear wheel cylinders:

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,572 Posts
Nice score. I call those taillight "Taxi Cab" lights!

Enjoy!
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top