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i tried them all with good results for a while,then rust creeps back.all my parts were always beadblasted then hand sanded with scotchbrite red. then self etched and painted.the problem is most spray bombs are not sealing the part they allow moisture in and then all your hard work wasted,,,untill now VHT makes a new paint its epoxy and man the results are great.if the part is preped as i informed you you will not be dissapointed.your parts will look better than powdercoating. VHT epoxy black paint is available at Oreily Auto parts.
 

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i tried them all with good results for a while,then rust creeps back.all my parts were always beadblasted then hand sanded with scotchbrite red. then self etched and painted.the problem is most spray bombs are not sealing the part they allow moisture in and then all your hard work wasted,,,untill now VHT makes a new paint its epoxy and man the results are great.if the part is preped as i informed you you will not be dissapointed.your parts will look better than powdercoating. VHT epoxy black paint is available at Oreily Auto parts.
must be you don't know how to prep for painting.

that parts store give you a can or two to spam an ad for them ?

what if klutz whats to paint his engine pink ? looks like he'd be out of luckl
 

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The best engine paint in a spray bomb would be a auto paint store that can fill spray cans at the store. Pick any urathane enamel color and have a can filled with it. Cost about 18.00. The premium paint and hardners are better than the cheeper ones most any of them are better than off the shelf spray bombs. Best engine paint off the shelf is the Mercury Marine spray bombs. Last i used them they were urathane.

Clear urathane from a store that can fill thier own cans also works well and dosent yellow.
 

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This guy is a little out of grasp of reality but not by much.

Rustoleum RTA9203 Semi Flat black SEALS Solidly. It's by far the easiest way to duplicate the factory color on out engine bay's. They cost $5.99 per can.

Self Etching Primer isn't necessary. But it's supposed to technically bond better to the metal it's painted on, it is easily removes, which means to me that it's not all that good at bonding... (remember I do this for a living)

I have gone the way of Turbo with the $18 dollar paint store loaded cans in enamel (but other paints under it make it curdle so a Thorough primer sealer is necessary unless the piece id bare stripped) when I do interior painting because I do not want the high gloss of the clear coat inside the car. The color match is perfect if you got a good paint mixer guy.

Never Ever had rust show up under my hand sprayed under hood components. DanH is correct in his relating that you don't prep very well....
 

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I used Rustoleum Satin on my Gal. I really liked the finish but the last few cans I bought were more like semi gloss and the semi gloss is more like semi shiny :confused: :rolleyes:. I'll have to check out the RTA9203, I have never seen semi flat
 

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I have had a lot of issues using rustoleum in any combination with other paints under or over. Cant stand the smell of rustolem either like I am alergec to it reaction. Most engine paints seem to absorb dirt also.
With the urathane enamel on my engine just dust it. Was it like the outside of the car. Sometimes wax it. Often easyier to clean than the out side of the car.

Best prep for cast iron is to have it baked clean. Removes all the oil in the pores all old paint. Usaly paint all non machined surfaces as soon as possible. paint absorbes into the pores sealing and adheasion is great.
Often clean parts with brake clean before painting. Also seems to work better than most chemicals.

Pic of my engine heads block valve covers intake were painted 7 years ago. Perty much been a daily driver over that time. Even seen usage during winters in Michigan Dearborne area. Its a custom color.
 

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I have had good results with the Satin Black Rustoleum under the hood. I took all the parts to bare metal, cleaned with acetone, used Rustoleum primer, then Rustoleum Satin Black. I think it looks great and after 3 years there is not 1 spot where it has peeled, bubbled or rust broke thru. You can achieve professional results with spray can paint if you do your prep work and it cost half as much if you will buy it at Walmart or one of the big box discount stores.

As far as the engine I used the VHT and it has held up great.

If you have rust issues, treat the area with POR15, One Step or any of the rust converter products. I have even had good results with Rustoleum Rust something in the spray can.
 

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Don't use POR 15 semi-gloss in your engine bay, it is so soft that a fingernail will scratch it.
Don't ask me how I know.
 

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Don't use POR 15 semi-gloss in your engine bay, it is so soft that a fingernail will scratch it.
Don't ask me how I know.

I am not going to ask the question, but it has to be something you did, I have used POR-15 SEVERAL times, and havent had any problems with it scratching, or being 'soft'.
 

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Quit using por15 after using it a few places. Its not UV restant and the amout of prep work to paint other paints over it is a total pain, exta cost and time involed to do so.
 
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