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Discussion Starter #1
Hey All,
One of the things that CAN be worked on after the mosquitoes have retreated for the day, and it's STILL cool enough to be outdoors in the shade where Ms. American is sitting is to remove all the "caulking" from the Rain Gutters around the Front&Sides of the 3.14's Roof.

What is presently IN the Rain Gutter looks to be like a Ceramic Tile Grout, but it is all cracked and needs to be removed and replaced with something.

Once the "caulking" is out of the Gutter, there will have to be either the removal of the rust with an abrasive, or the applying of Ospho to stabilize the Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate.

Then there will have to be some sort of filler reapplied to SEAL the rain gutters.

Have been considering using POR15, or there is a kind of Bondo that is a "clear" Green substance that can be molded into the Gutters.

But what I wanted to do first was see if anyone here has done this operation before and would be kind enough to clue me in on what is being gotten into.

Any comments or advice would be greatly appreciated by both Ms. American and myself.

TIA and I hope you all are well.

JC
 

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I would not recommend POR-15 unless you have the underside sealed water tight. POR-15 is very thin and will even get into areas where water might not go through but It will kill the rust and it actually bonds to the rust better than to clean steel.
I use POR-15 when I need it to get into the seams between panels but if I need to paint a panel with pin holes or no holes I usually find that a product called Rust Bullet generally works better. It has a consistency more like paint so it will bridge some small imperfections.

If I am doing a car for someone that just would like to have the rust in the channel removed but does not care about having it "Factory Correct" I usually get a thin wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder and clean the big rust off and if there are not visible pin holes I will just pour a small amount of POR-15 in the channel and do nothing else to the area. If I discover small pin holes then I brush apply the rust bullet then put one of the seam sealers over that.

So many ways to skin that cat and everyone does it somewhat differently.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE WARNINGS ON THE POR-15 PRODUCT

And if you are purchasing on line get it in the 1/2 pint size because it does not take much and it does not store well after being opened.

Scott...
 

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I saw a trick on Trucks TV to prolong an open can of POR-15. Years ago I saw one of the TV shows use the Argon from there MIG torch to displace the air in the can, but the recent episode showed using butane from a small torch. The butane is heavier than air so it will displace the air, and the moisture, which is the issue with POR-15, and with a sheet of plastic over the opening before installing the lid it should stay fresh longer. The other trick I remember seeing is FE's silicone plug in a hole punched in the top of the can.
 

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Discussion Starter #7

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Discussion Starter #8
Lord Fusor EZ800. Pure urethane, can be painted over after a while and will last until the second coming of Christ.
Hey Gary,
Will have to check on availability here. You think NAPA will have, or can get this Lord Fusor EZ80?

Self leveling will run in the channel on the downward side, but is fine for the top portion.
"Fine for the top portion"? Whatever is going to be put into the Rain Channels to seal them is going to have to work for the whole job.

The "clear Green stuff" made by Bondo is thick enough not to run, and can be molded and sculpted. Saw it over at Bayou City Customs, here in Onalaska.

Anyway, thanks for the reference. Will let you know what is found.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I would not recommend POR-15 unless you have the underside sealed water tight. POR-15 is very thin and will even get into areas where water might not go through but It will kill the rust and it actually bonds to the rust better than to clean steel.
Hey Scott,
Have never used POR-15, but the Rain Channels are NOT "water tight". From what little inspection has been done, there are lots of little holes rusted in the bottom of the Channels under the "grout-like" stuff that is in them. POR-15 would probably just run right through them into the area below the Channels.

I use POR-15 when I need it to get into the seams between panels but if I need to paint a panel with pin holes or no holes I usually find that a product called Rust Bullet generally works better.
Will have to check on the availability of Rust Bullet here.

It has a consistency more like paint so it will bridge some small imperfections.
Am thinking that it's going to take something with more "substance" to fill in the bottom of the Rain Channels.

If I am doing a car for someone that just would like to have the rust in the channel removed but does not care about having it "Factory Correct" I usually get a thin wire wheel on a drill or angle grinder and clean the big rust off and if there are not visible pin holes I will just pour a small amount of POR-15 in the channel and do nothing else to the area.
Am thinking that what will be done to the 3.14 will be to completely remove what ever is in the Rain Channel, and then, as you said, clean out the Channel with a "thin Wire Wheel in the Craftsman Electric Drill. Then give the whole Rain Channel a couple of applications of Ospho to stabilize the Iron Oxide to Iron Phosphate.

If I discover small pin holes then I brush apply the rust bullet then put one of the seam sealers over that.
It's going to take a molded "seam sealer" for sure.

So many ways to skin that cat and everyone does it somewhat differently.
How to do it will reveal itself once the process is underway.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE WARNINGS ON THE POR-15 PRODUCT

And if you are purchasing on line get it in the 1/2 pint size because it does not take much and it does not store well after being opened. Scott
If POR-15 is used, it will be gotten from AutoZone. Have seen that they have it in stock.

Anyway, thanks for the response. Will keep you up to date on progress.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I saw a trick on Trucks TV to prolong an open can of POR-15. Years ago I saw one of the TV shows use the Argon from there MIG torch to displace the air in the can, but the recent episode showed using butane from a small torch. The butane is heavier than air so it will displace the air, and the moisture, which is the issue with POR-15, and with a sheet of plastic over the opening before installing the lid it should stay fresh longer. The other trick I remember seeing is FE's silicone plug in a hole punched in the top of the can.
Hey Mr. 70XL,
Am thinking that preserving the unused portion of POR-15 would be an exercise is futility, as there is nothing else for which it would be needed. Am thinking that POR-15 is NOT going to be what is finally used.

Thanks for the response.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I've got a nice liquid can of POR-15 that's several months old. Has a nice RTV plug in the end of it and tape over the breather hole.

Anyhow, for the gutters POR isn't necessary. 800EZ and a finger in a glove with some thinner to clean up and viollah you're done.
Hey Gary,
This "800EZ" sounds more like what is probably going to be used.

Will be going to Livingston later this week. Will check on all the stuff that is available. Will let you know what is found.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hey All,
Just spent an hour out in the heat removing the Caulk/SeamSealer from Ms. American's Rain Channels around the Roof.

The stuff came out in 1" segments, and amazingly enough there were NO RUST HOLES under the stuff.

The Caulk/SeamSealer was obviously original, and from the difference in the way it was put in, it was obvious that two different workers did the Caulking/Sealing because the Driver's Side was applied somewhat thicker than the Passenger's Side.

Am going to blow all the "rust dust" out of the Channel and then paint Ospho in it.

Will give it half a dozen coats of Ospho to get an optimum amount of Iron Phosphate built-up.

Then will Give it a coat of Acrylic Polymer, and then re-apply whatever Seam Sealer that can be obtained locally from the NAPA or AutoZone.

This is NOT going to be the "ordeal" that was ORIGINALLY feared it would be.

It wasn't bad being out in the heat because there is a pretty steady breeze blowing, and Ms. American is sitting in the same shade where Lorrie sat for those many years since 1996.

Anyway, things are pretty good here right now. Am stocked up on food, bills are paid, have enough money for food for the felines, we're not far from the beginning of Autumn and some cooler weather. For what more could a guy ask?


Will keep you all up to date on developments here.

Take care now, you hear?

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #14
If you are using rust bullet over pinholes put a piece of tape underneath to help bridge the gaps and use several coats.
Mike
Hey Mike,
As was mentioned previously, there ARE no rust holes! I'm amazed and overjoyed! :)

JC
 

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My way of thinking is always expect the worst, that way you want be disapointed.. The impossible just takes longer.. Jim we have a cool front coming, I hope it has so wet with it our grass is brown. Good thang our JD mower needs a bearing for the blade. Just when your about get a little ahead BAM another set back. It's nothing I can't fix.. stay cool..
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My way of thinking is always expect the worst, that way you won't be disappointed.
Hey Lester,
Disappointment would be having Chip Whazzizface abscond with Ms. American and bring it back looking like a 57 Chebbie RatRod! :)

The impossible just takes longer.
Improbable as it may seem.

Jim we have a cool front coming, I hope it has so wet with it our grass is brown.
Here too. The cool (85 degrees) is supposed to get here Saturday and Sunday. Supposed to rain the whole weekend. BUT, have come to not trust the weather guessers.

Good thang our JD mower needs a bearing for the blade. Just when your about get a little ahead BAM another set back.
Strange that you should mention the Mower needing a Bearing. Just had to replace one of the Idler Pulleys on the Craftsman Lawn Tractor due to a seized Bearing.

It's nothing I can't fix.
Right! Being able to fix stuff is a real blessed talent.

stay cool..
You too.

Drop by when you can. You haven't seen Lorrie yet.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Hey All,
Thursday Afternoon Update:

Am starting to have computer problems. If all of a sudden there are no posts coming from me, it's because the computer has fritzed.

If it does, will do what can be done to get back on line.

Simultaneous with the computer problem, had a Hot Water Heater go belly up today. Got it drained so that it doesn't flood the place. Took almost four hours. It's the Heater that supplies hot water for the Washer/Dryer. Will be doing the laundry in cold water from now on.

If perchance the computer problem can't be overcome, it's been fun being here. Have enjoyed it immensely. Take care all you guys. Hope this post goes.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Hey All, and Gary,
Got all the Caulk/Seam Sealant (hereinafter called Caulk) out of the Rain Channels. Amazingly, there is just surface rust in them. NO HOLES! :) Although there are some holes rusted through just ABOVE the Caulk line.

Got a two applications of Ospho in the Driver's Side Channel, and one application of Ospho on the Passenger's Side.

Was at AutoZone yesterday and asked for Lord Fuzor EZ800. They had never heard of the stuff.

Got a rattle can of Primer, and because the manager was amazed at the sight of Lorrie Van Haul finally, after almost three years of hearing about her, sitting in front of his store, that he extended his congratulations and rewarded her with three FREE rolls of Masking Tape! :)

Anyway, am going to be giving Ms. American's Rain Channels applications of Ospho till I'm satisfied that ALL the surface rust has been turned to Iron Phosphate, and then am going to put in whatever is available as a Seam Sealant.

So far, the Caper is going really well. The Channels are cleaning up in marvelous fashion.

Would still be working on them were it not for the fact that the skies all of a sudden clouded over, and it's threatening to rain. Got the 3.14 under her Plastic&Tarp, and have cleaned up the Tools&Materials.

Will keep you updated when progress occurs.

JC
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey All,
Have multiple applications of Ospho in the Rain Channels, and the surface rust is very hard and very stable.

Had a long conversation with "Bubba", the sheet metal guy who fabricated a Stiffener Channel for Lorrie Van Haul Port Side.

He used to restore old cars.

He has a 1930 Model A Ford that is just GORGEOUS.

We got to talking about what to use in the Rain Channels, and he recommended General Electric Max5000. It comes in a Tube that is meant to be used with a Caulking Gun.

QUESTION: Would it be best to apply Primer to the Ospho-ed surfaces first, or would it be better to apply the GE Max5000 directly to the Ospho-ed surfaces?

Am tending to think that the GE Max5000 would adhere better to the Iron Phosphate than it would to the Primer.

Whaddaya think?

JC
 

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nothing is better than the pure urethane of the 800EZ, that I have ever come across.
 
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